Tag: NNML

• NNML 2026 Day 9, June 26, Friday
• Start S3 mile 0, Ghost Ranch
• End S3 mile 18 near Mogo
• Miles walked: 18

I walk out of Ghost Ranch early, to take advantage of the cool morning.

Navigating out of the box canyon is confusing for me, but I eventually get it. After 4 hikes out of Ghost Ranch, I still tend to make a wrong turn when exiting.

My climb out of Yeso Canyon is hard for me. My pack seems heavy, and my energy is low, and I have to rest frequently. It already seems too hot.What is going on? Too much town food and rest? Something else?

The day starts cloudless, but around noon clouds appear and soon thunder grumbles in the distance. Clouds fring welcome shade.

Rain begins, just as I am filtering my water for the day, at mile 15, and lasts about an hour. The temperature drop is sudden, and now I have to hike just to stay warm.

The soil changes to black, and sticky from the rain, like clay. Trees change to skinny aspen, all with damaged bark. Is that from antlers?

Conifers disappear, and grassland dominates. Is the change in soil connected to lack of conifers? Along with aspen, we also get thick stands of Gambel oak, trying to grow taller than a shrub.

I get a second wind, and start to hike faster.

Around midnight, a large group of ATVs come by, with revving and latin music coming from speakers, and colored lights,  and so much revving. Why would people be out partying on such a wet, cold night? I guess it is a Friday night.

Finished audiobook On the Duty of Civil Disobedience, by Henry David Thoreau.

• NNML 2026 Day 8, June 25, Thursday
• Start S2 70 down from rim
• End S2 76 Ghost Ranch HQ
• Miles walked: 6

Continuing my descent from the mesa rim, in early morning the sandstone cliffs are painted in muted pastels.

A suspension foot-bridge is in the middle having wood blanks replaced.

Ghost Ranch is a convention center located in a gorgeous natural setting, used by youth groups, spiritual programs, artist functions, and more. The Ranch is a popular stop on the CDT, and is super hiker-friendly. I have a food supply box mailed here, and decide to spend the night in the campground to use the shower and laundry, and I even sign up for a couple of cafeteria meals.

( For long-distance hikers, a zero is a day with no miles on the trail, and a nero (near-zero) is a day with very few miles. )

I check in with the camp host, Trinke, who is just finishing her three month volunteer session, and will soon return to Wisconsin.

Usually I visit a museum or display when I am at Ghost Ranch. Ghost House is one of the early buildings when the land was a working ranch, and old photographs tell some of the history here.

At lunch and dinner, we eat family style at round tables, and we are encouraged to talk to strangers/ new friends-in- passing. You would be surprised how social I am when on a trail adventure, so much more outgoing than normal life. A couple of large youth groups are currently at the ranch, and an artist retreat. I meet adult leaders for a small youth group from Wooster, a small liberal arts college in Ohio, where Dotter attended. What are the chances?

A display near tho dining hall shows the geology of the rock formations that surround us.

I attempt a repair of my backpack. A buckle on the sternum strap came off and is lost. I have spare buckles in my repair kit, but they are incompatible. I put together and sew a new sternum strap– maybe it will work. A rip in my trail pants is sewed and taped, and hopefully will not look too disreputable when I go into towns.

• NNML 2026 Day 7, June 24, Wednesday
• Start S2 mile 46.8 near road crossing, on the CDT
• End S2 mile 70 down from rim
• Miles walked: 23.2

Although I am in a canyon that leads to the Rio Chama, we need to get over to the correct canyon. The route climbs Mesa Alta to the next canyon over.

Now the route is in a small canyon, which merges with the larger Osito Canyon. A flash flood had been through here recently, and huge cairns were built to mark the CDT route.

There was water running in the drainage, really the only water source today besides the turbid Rio Chama later.

Lower in the canyon are colorful sandstone walls.

As the route gets near the river, we enter a sagebrush forest.

Skull Bridge over the Rio Chama is now closed to vehicles, but not hikers.

The route climbs up a cliff along the river. Clouds appear while I am climbing, the first clouds since the beginning of my hike, and a cool breeze comes by.

After the climb, a brief shower barely wets the ground.

Along the top we see that the cliffs are a mesa, and the route follows along the rim of the mesa towards Ghost Ranch, with stunning views at every turn.

I climb down from the rim to sleep among sagebrush.

Finished audiobook The Ebb Tide, by Robert Louis Stevenson and Lloyd Osborne.