Continuing south along the West Rim Trail, the gorge becomes wide and irregular, not so vertical.
The West Rim Trail ends, and I take the Orilla Verde Trail down, and spot a bighorn sheep.
The Taos Junction Bridge brings me back to the east side of the river.
I take Picurus and Slider Trails up to the east rim.
A series of 2-track and paved roads transport me to Ranchos de Taos, full of history. I just happen to arrive at their plaza while villagers are re-mudding the historic church.
A restaurant on the plaza has patio dining, perfect for a smelly hiker who cannot check into his room until 4PM.
Some quirks around the plaza stir my interest.
I am able to take the free Blue Bus to a lange grocery store in Taos, and then a return bus to my motel just at check-in time. What joy is the shower. The bathroom sink serves as a substitute for a washing machine, and the fan on the cooling/heating unit stands in for a dryer.
Coming out of Cristobal Canyon, I met a couple with several Borzois, preparing to hike. The village of Cristobal has all dirt roads, and displays its own unique charm. Horsethief Mesa Trail plays along the east rim of the Rio Grande gorge. Volcanic rock sometimes piles up, involving climbing and descending. The trail looks good … Continue reading “Rio”
NNML 2026 Day 20, July 7, Tuesday
Start S6 mile 22, San Cristobal Canyon
End S7 mile 24.3 on West Rim Trail
Miles walked: 29.3
Coming out of Cristobal Canyon, I met a couple with several Borzois, preparing to hike.
The village of Cristobal has all dirt roads, and displays its own unique charm.
Horsethief Mesa Trail plays along the east rim of the Rio Grande gorge. Volcanic rock sometimes piles up, involving climbing and descending. The trail looks good for mountain bikes, with wide swooping turns. Great views, though sometimes the gorge is so steep thae it is hard to see the river itself.
Then the NNML goes cross-country down below the rim at a somewhat safe spot, and crosses the John Dunn bridge over the Rio Grande… River.
Now the route does something truly audacious, going parallel to the west rim for several miles cross country and folloing 2-track, eventually arriving at the next bridge across the river, the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, with its graceful arc over a wide span.
The rest stop is pleasant and shady, and provides water on this very hot day, but for some unknown reason, the restrooms are locked, with no warning to motorists.
At the rest stop is the trailhead for the West Rim Trail, which follows along the rim for several miles south, all the way to the next bridge. Wow. The trail stays close to the rim the entire way, along single track and 2-track, on very level ground. Initially the cliffs are extremely vertical and the gorge is magnificently deep.
I took more photos, and if you have me over for tea someday, you can see them.
Late in the day the gorge starts to widen, and the cliffs are not so vertical.
I pitch my tent right against the rim. Here is the view from my tent door.
Hope I do not roll around in my sleep much tonight.
Finished audiobook Rilla of Ingleside, by Lucy Maud Montgomery, part of the Green Gables cinematic universe. Read by Karen Savage.
I trail-washed my clothes last night. I am hardly smelly at all today.
A short hike takes me to Taos Ski Village.
Since I decided to take the optional Wheeler Loop, I should add another dinner to my food bag. But many shops do not open until 9 or 10, and I do not want to wait that long, missing prime morning hiking time. Finally, I get a couple of breakfast burritos from a coffee shop that opened at 8, and move on.
I complete the Wheeler Loop using Long Canyon Trail, with no views to photograph. Then the route switches to Lobo Peak Trail for 9 miles, which tends to stay along a ridge, with views on both sides.
The ridge makes turns, and often the best view is of the section of ridge I am about to hike on.
Sometimes the route drops down 100 feet from the top of the ridge, to save the hiker climbing up and down so much.
More views:
Sometimes a peak is on the ridge, and the route insists on climbing right over the top of the peak, instead of going around. You cannot imagine the effort it took for me to get to this cairn on an unnamed peak in forest with no views.
Rain and smoke from the forest fire are limiting views at times.
Finally I get to Lobo Peak, and the climb here is not too bad.
After another mile or two my route switches to San Cristobal Canyon, with good tread, and blowdowns cleared.
Where my databook suggests I can find water, San Cristobal Creek is bone dry, and I start to worry. But further down the trail, I hear running water, and the canyon transforms into a lush garden of flowers and foliage.
