Cruces Basin

  • NNML 2026 Day 13, June 30, Tuesday
  • Start: get a ride back to Cumbres Pass, S3A mile 17
  • End S4 mile 4
  • Miles walked:  21

I had planned to take the historic Cumbres and Toltec coal-fueled train to Ossier Station, enjoy an all- you- can- eat buffet, and then walk a short 8 miles back to my trail, but when booking my ticket I was met with this notice:

Due to forecasted weather conditions and elevated fire danger, the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad has canceled all scheduled train operations on Tuesday, June 30, and Wednesday, July 1.

Well, fudge. I had put in big miles a couple of days ago just to arrive today, since the train is currently going from Chama to Ossier every other day, and Ossier to Chama the other days. Oh, well.

There is no activity at Chama Station this morning, since operations are canceled.

I get a ride back to Cumbres Pass with trail angel George. The ridge from the pass is much less windy than yesterday, and scattered clouds help the day stay cool.

After 17 miles, I am back to the NNML, ready for new trail, as the route leaves the CDT and enters the Cruces Basin Wilderness.

I go cross-country down to Beaver Creek (no beavers), where lange rock formations are scattered along the drainage.

I follow fragments of user trail and game trail. The area seems to have plenty of water, with frequent seeps and bogs. Elk are visible at every turn of the creek, and I hear their odd whistling yips from my tent at dusk.

Finished audiobook The Falcons of Narabedla, by Marion Zimmer Bradley.

High Step

  • NNML 2026 Day 12, June 29, Monday
  • Start S3 mile 74 of 78, beyond Lagunita Campground
  • End Cumbres Pass, and get a ride to Chama for resupply
  • Miles walked: 21

In this area, the forest floor is often filled with downed trees, coming down too often for the rotting process to clear them.

A good number of these downed trees are firs, succumbing to some disease or pest. Many standing dead firs are waiting for the next strong wind to bring them down.

Volunteers and CDTC staff try to clear downed trees from the trail, but it is an ongoing process. In this remote area, sawing crews can only come by so often, so each day a few dozen trees each will need to be stepped over, crawled under, or walked around. For trees tend to have a huge number of limbs, which adds to the obstacle.

After 4 miles today, the route reaches Brazos Ridge Overlook.

Now the NNML departs from the CDT, which it had joined since San Pedro Parks. But first, we will follow the 17 mile CDT resupply route to Cumbres Pass, to get a ride into the nearest town, Chama, and then return to this spot tomorrow.

The resupply route continues along high ridge for a long while. The wind is cold and intense.

Later the route crosses a huge grass valley.

In fir and spruce forest, I notice that enough fir trees are missing, or standing dead and not making shade, so the forest understory is grass, instead of low-light plants.

Close to my destination of Cumbres Pass, I climb another ridge, and can see Colorado at a viewpoint.

I must be in Colorado, because here is a columbine.

I am buffeted by high winds on the ridge, but eventually make it to the pass.

A pickup truck has a full load of people in the cab, but trail angel Daniel offers to let me ride in the truck bed, wedged in among a kayak and coolers. This means more wind.

A shower and clean clothes, washed in the motel sink, are a real treat. Tomorrow I return to the trail, with food for a few more days.

Finished audiobook Talents Incorporated, by Murray Leinster.

Race

  • NNML 2026 Day 11, June 28, Sunday
  • Start S3 mile 42 Rio Vallecitos
  • End S3 mile 74 past Lagunitas Campground
  • Miles walked: 32

I try walking a bit faster today, to improve options for the following 2 days. You may learn more later.

The route climbs up high on single-track to get off of a road, through fir and aspen and meadow. The air is cool, strong gusting winds.

Hopewell Lake is surrounded by fisherfolk. I do not see anyone catch anything

I see a couple of mountain bikers come down to the CDT trailhead above the lake, in a hurry. Could this be Race the Divide, an annual race on the Great Divide Trail, the mountain bike version of the CDT?

The route now has large grassy areas, alternating with forest, which sets a pattern for the day.

The CDT goes along the Tony Marquez Trail for a spell. My Trail Group will do some work on Tony Marquez later this year.

The trail is 2-track turning to 1-track on old roadbed closed to vehicles. I notice an unusual amount of young spruce and fir, among the dying old fir trees. Did all this start naturally, or is it part of some forest remediation?

I meet a couple of section hikers with a small dog with the trail name Speed Bump.

In wide open space, near a ranch called the Yonderosa, I catch a tail-wind and make good time.

Daniel is the fifth mountain bike racer I meet.

I get water at the Rio San Antonio, though there are many cows in the watershed. Then I start up a ridge overlooking the San Antonio, which continues for miles of controlled grade, with magnificent views.

I meet my ninth and tenth racers just below Lagunitas Campground. Most of the racers seem a little dazed, too exhausted to chat for long.

Lagunitas Campground is so peaceful, with several small lakes.

Another narrow ridge awaits, this time with loose sand and narrow tread.

Walking started at 5:30 AM, and finally ends at 8:30 PM, a long and full day.

Finished audiobook Dispatches From the Ruhr, by Ernest Hemingway. He is a journalist for the Toronto Star, reporting from French-occupied Ruhr Valley in 1923.