Meadows

  • NNML 2026 Day 5, June 22, Monday
  • Start S1 mile 77.6 near La Cueva
  • End S2 mile 20.6, Rito Penas Negras, dry
  • Miles walked: 21.4

The store for my resupply would not open until 8:30, so I stopped at a nearby picnic area and rinsed out my clothes. T

The store is under new ownership as Paisleys, and the staff seem really nice and let me charge electronics, and they had plenty of basics for backpacking food.

After a short roadwalk to the trailhead, one passes a bunch of “No trespassing” signs, which the guidebook assures us are bogus.

The route follows the Rio San Antonio for a while, flowing nicely.

As I climb along 2-track, ponderosa forest is replaced by fir and spruce.

The route follows along the Rio San Antonio for some miles. Beaver dam analogs have been installed along the river to push water out onto the banks, wetting the meadow.

We are getting more open meadows, as we get closer to San Pedro Parks.

I meet Kate and Josh from St Louis, and we chat about elevation, horse feed, manure, and farriers.

An unusual sign.

I follow the Rio Cebolla in a long straight valley for some miles. They are also using beaver dam analogs here to improve the meadow.

After a maze of 2-tracks and climbing, aspens appear among fir and spruce.

I was really hoping for water at my destination, a crossing with Rio Perchas, but no joy.

Finished audiobook The Shame of Motley, by Rafael Sabatini.

Jemez

  • NNML 2026 Day 4, June 21, Sunday
  • Start mile 52.2 Alamo Spring Trail
  • End mile 77.6 approaching La Cueva
  • Miles walked: 24.4

My route becomes 2-track leaving Bandelier, through a burn scar. At one point my trail is on a narrow rim, with upper Frijoles Canyon on my right and upper Alamo Canyon on my right.

Alamo Boundary Trail takes me out of the park one last time, and over a little ridge with view of Valles Cadera National Preserve, on Coyote Call Trail.

Looking down into this wide grassy valley, one can see the darker patches of grass and sedges in boggy areas, and glints of blue from surface water, headwaters of the East Fork of the Jemez River.

On the main road into the Preserve, I turn off onto Jemez River Traill before reaching the HQ. A building nearby is apparently from an old movie set.

My hike is along a bog, that gradually transforms into the East Fork of the Jemez River. I have hiked the East Fork before, but never from its headwaters.

Now I am along a real river. Boulders block the way, or the river switches banks in its channel, requiring some calculations to determine the best route.

At Las Conchas Day Use Area tons of cars are parked, and people are rock-climbing or walking their dogs and toddlers along the river on this Fathers Day Weekend. Bridges make the hike easier.

I leave the water on East Fork Trail, though pine forest up on a ridge, hiking for several miles.

At Jemez Falls Campground and a few day use areas are loads of families enjoying the weekend. I skip the route to MacCauly Hot Spring- too many people likely.

Redondo Campground is now open, after being closed for several years. It was a favorite spot to camp with my young children, with a good supply of boulders that become forts.

A nearby overlook shows the Jemez Valley and a loop of road, far below.

I camp near La Cueva, planning for resupply tomorrow.

Finished audiobook Empire, by Clifford Simak. What happens when new technology threatens an energy monopoly?

Bandelier and Canyons

  • NNML 2026 Day 3, June 20, Saturday
  • Start S1 mile 32
  • End S1 mile 52.2 Alamo Spring Trail
  • Miles walked: 20.2

5 miles of roadwalk along NM4 start the day, past several Los Alamos Tech Centers, aka mad scientist labs. finally I get to Bandelier National Park, grab water at Juniper Campground, and take Frey Trail towards the archaeological sites.

I am able to see some of the ruins from far above, coming down theetrail.

Coming to Pueblo Loop Trail, I take it to see all the cliff dwelling ruinsd

I check in at the visitor’s center, and grab some snacks and electrons at the cafe.

The Middle Alamo Trail takes me down and up Alamo Canyon on carved stone steps the NPS trail builders are fond of using here.

A single hoodoo decorates the canyon.

At the Stone Lions Site, eroded carvings of two lions are surrounded by a circle of rock.

The trail goes down Upper Alamo Canyon, where I am grateful to find running water, just enough.

I head to a spot just out of the park boundary, to camp on USFS land.

Finished audiobook The Reverse Centaur’s Guide to Life After AI, by Cory Doctorow.