Category: Trip Journal

Nearly Nero

  • CT day 19, July 18, Tuesday
  • Start: Spring Creek Pass, S21 mile 14.8, CT mile 357.8, from Lake City
  • End: S22 mile 10, CT mile 367.8, 12.2k
  • Miles walked: 10

After going to the grocery for supplies for three days, I returned to the hostel to pack. A hiking couple walked in, the Noodleheads!

I met the Noodleheads, Angel Hair and Rigatoni, on my Appalachian Trail hike way back in 2012. What serendipity! What a pleasant surprise! We have a chance to chat and reminisce.

(I consider the Noodleheads trail-famous, because they have been on several episodes of The Trail Show podcast.)

The hostel closes for cleaning at 10, and the free shuttle back to the trail does not leave until 12, so I walk over to the Hiker Center, a space for hikers created by a local church, with assistance from the town. On the way, a cabin with sod roof catches my attention.

The Hiker Space is a pleasant large room, with charging station and hot water for tea, and wifi. Today it is filled with CDT and CT hikers waiting for the shuttle.

They had to round up more volunteers with vehicles to bring us up. The CT group includes Jackrabbit, Phil, M&M, Eric, Shannon, and more.

The trail starts off on a sort of mesa again, and later climbs into trees.

Now there is a problem. At 8 miles in, we go above treeline in a huge climb, and do not return down to warmer altitudes until 10 miles later. That would mean hiking until 9PM. Most hikers camp early, planning to make the climb tomorrow. I camp a little higher, in the bushes, ready for a big day of hiking tomorrow.

Finished audiobook Chokepoint Capitalism, by Cory Doctorow.

Range to Ridge

  • CT day 17, July 16, Sunday
  • Start: S18 mile 9.7,  CT mile 312.0
  • End: S20 mile 12.1, CT mile 342.0
  • Miles walked: 30.0

I am accidentally driving cattle along a road on the range.

The route stays on easy dirt road for some miles, on grassland near tree cover, and eventually stands of sagebrush become frequent.

The cloudless day is getting rather hot, but the temperature instantly drops in an aspen grove.

A fellow New Mexican is out hiking the CDT, Whistletooth from La Union. (“Whistletooth” is an elk hunting term, look it up.)

The trail follows a wetlands for a time, with several beaver dams.

I meet another CT hiker, Phil, and we pass each other a few times during the day.

After wet-foot crossing the Cochetopa River, the route follows it some miles from the heights.

As the trail gradually climbs, following the river, aspen and standing dead trees, killed by bark beetle, make patterns on the opposite ridge.

The trail heads towards mountains. Climbing is in my future.

Still following the Cochetopa, the route becomes rugged and brushy, hiking along dead trees, with several small streams crossing the trail.

I meet Phil and a couple setting up camp, Mark and Mary, M&M. We discuss the practicality of reaching the road tomorrow for the noon shuttle to Lake City. I am hiking long today, but still do not think I can get there in time, so may have to make a difficult 17 mile hitch.

I climb over a saddle at about 12.5k.

Instead of heading down again on the other side, the trail goes along a ridge past a bowl-shaped valley to another saddle.

Past the second saddle, the trail gradually descends, and I can make camp at 11.9k, not far from San Luis Pass, just at treeline, but without any wind, and temperatures remaining moderate.