June 9, Saturday, Tumbling Run Shelters to Quarry Gap Shelter, 11.5
Keeping to a short hiking day to ease leg pain.
Massaged my leg with lotion for a few minutes, and set off around 7AM with a slow deliberate pace, never greater than 2 miles/hour, with emphasis on low impact, low impulse force. After a while I realize on big steps I tend to land on the right foot unconsciously, to protect previous injury to my left knee, which is curiously not complaining.
Because of the early start and a light breeze and no clouds, and plenty of shade, the temp was so very fine. Brought a smile to my face just walking by myself. At a time like this, minor problems like a bum leg seem possible to overcome.
First parts were gentle uphill and level. Then some boulder fields, which I took slow. Long steady gentle downhill to Caledonia State Park. Swimming pool has a water slide, though swimwear is required. This was the first day of the year that the snack bar is open! Nokey and Sprinkles were ordering when I arrive. I got a hamburger and chocolate ice cream cone, and they fill my water bottle with ice and water for free. They even started charging some thru-hikers electronics. Enjoyed a real rest-room, then back for another ice cream and ice water. Joss arrives, and later Papa Rose. I see kids playing in the stream, so I go in for a quick dip.
Snack bar at Caledonia State Park
Swimming pool, Caledonia
Instead of staying in Caledonia State Park, Calculator had suggested we go to the next shelter, so I carefully climb a few miles, and pass a couple of women who say I am about to enter the “Taj Majal of shelters”.
Decoration at Quarry Gap Shelter
Quarry Gap Shelter has potted flowers decorating the site, a bench, skylight over the roofed dining area, a babbling brook next to a spring, clotheslines, bear box, and more. The caretaker Jim Stauch, Innkeeper, greeted me and described how he cared for the shelter and nearby trails on behalf of PATC. Papa Rose arrives and chats, and Innkeeper eventually leaves. A few tenters arrive, then Calculator comes and says several thru-hikers are expected to arrive.
Calculator at Quarry Gap Shelter
Several 20-something fast thru-hikers trickle in. Golden introduces herself and asks if I need a real pen (I am writing journal with my skinny ink refill.) and starts a round of questions about ultralight gear. Crash, Peppaboy, Lance, and Willie Raisin King (new trail name, might not last) joke around the table while preparing dinners, and crack everyone up with banter. (Like my nephews and niece when they get together.)
Prepping dinner at Quarry Gap
In conversation Calculator says he is responsible for 37 miles, which he patrols five days with two off.
One of the guys hides a chocolate milk in the stream and asks Golden to go look and find a prize.
Papa Rose plans to go to a hostel tomorrow near a road we will cross, then another hostel the next night near Pine Grove Furnace State Park. Later I realize this might cost me a day of hiking, but my leg complains enough I better take a healing.day.
Papa Rose has 8 grandkids, will finish final section, Katahdin, in August.
The AT Guide by Awol seems to be what most thru-hikers use now, not the AT Companion. The Guide shows elevation graphically. (Later entries will refer to the AT Guide as Awol, as thru-hikers do in conversation.)
June 10, Sunday, Quarry Gap Shelter to Tom’s Run Shelter, 14.3
I leave Quarry Gap Shelter early as I can without waking people too much, then along an easy rolling or level trail most of the day. Lined almost all day with mountain laurel in bloom. No views, few rocks or steep downhill to speak of until the last couple of hours. In the cool early morning air I was not able to make out distant traffic noise or aircraft noise for the first two hours, just birds calling.
Passed by Golden on a brief steep downhill section, which she jogs down with a huge pack. Also passed by other young thru-hikers, of course. Still being careful with leg. Even on an easy level grade where it is oh so tempting to stretch out and turn up the speed.
At one point Golden and Wildflower stop and make a sign on the ground proclaiming this the “real” Appalachian Trail Halfway Point, according to Awol, not the halfway maker they will see later (and I will not quite get to today). Pictures are taken: Golden, Willie, Lance, Wildflower, Peppaboy, but not Crash, who has not caught up yet. I wait for the festivities to complete so they will not need to pass me. Crash passes me later, and is still resting at Tom’s Run Shelter when I arrive. This crowd of thru-hikers will perhaps take the Half-Gallon Challenge and then waddle off to Ironmasters Mansion Hostel. While it might be fun to join them, I decide to stay at the neglected shelter for quiet time, then wander around Pine Grove State Park tomorrow, hopefully see the AT Museum, then spend one night at the hostel.
Wildflower and Golden mark unofficial half-way point
Wildflower and Golden at unofficial half-way point
Shawna and Terry arrive later and pitch a tent.
But I sense the reader grows weary of these details of who met whom when on the Trail. So let us divert to the odd feelings I encounter where my AT information is incorrect and out of date in so many odd places. All the shelters I have visited this trip have “bear poles” or some other system of hanging food. Hikers are not longer shut into shelters in the Smokies with chain link doors to keep bears out. Bears can now wander into the shelters but do not mess with humans because the food is not there. Some hiker made a comment about all the small towns in Georgia the Trail passes through. I remember Georgia as being pretty remote, but perhaps some businesses sensed an opportunity and moved close the the Trail. It is like a role playing game, and half my experience points are no good, and I do not know which points. My strategy has been to select knowledgeable kind people and be willing to ask plenty of dumb questions, so thank you Peter Pan, Calculator, and Papa Rose, and there will be others.
I hesitate to draw too many broad comparisons between the AT then and now, because now is only a few days. I was chatting with a day hiker and observed I hadn’t seen a pump filter during this trip, then an hour later I notice that Shawn and Terry might be using a pump filter.
June 11, Monday, Tom’s Run Shelter to James Fry Shelter, 10.9
The Noodleheads stop by, the first people I’ve seen on the trail where I’m certain they are ultralight backpacking. Seem real nice, though walking so fast I may never see them again.
A short easy walk down from Tom’s Run Shelter to Pine Grove Furnace State Park, with a small grocery and nearby hostel. The grocery has the “Half-Gallon Challenge”, where thru-hikers try to eat a half gallon of ice cream in one sitting. Typical times for thru-hikers who had come just ahead of me was 31 minutes, and many took the challenge, in celebration for completing the “official” half-way point on the Trail. The Pine Grove General Store has a large shady front porch, and although not open until 9AM, they had AC plugs for charging phones, which is a good thing. The Ironmasters Mansion Hostel did not open until 5PM (the Companion said 4PM) so I would explore the park, take in the nearby AT Museum, rest, and relax.The thru-hiker group from yesterday came down from the hostel. I mentioned to Golden how I had seen her float down a steep rocky trail with huge pack, and asked if she had done cross country. She smiled yes and said, “Downhill is my super power”. Lance, Willie, and others depart up the Trail.
Ironmaster
Lake at Pine Grove Furnace State Park
Official half-way marker
Someone comes by and says, “Hi, I’m Tubesocks.” I remember being asked if I had met Tubesocks yet, and here he is. Picture a 300 pound man, around 35, heavily tattooed on legs (and stomach, but that is a story in itself), lugging a really huge pack with a hammock visible– not a camping hammock, but one you would by to set up in the yard. Now picture this as a perfectly friendly voluble guy, willing to sit down and talk with you all day about anything and everything– and reality seems to warp around him just a bit. He is a grad student at some university in Pennsylvania, and conceived the idea of going on the Trail this summer collection stories, for a communications major. He only can hike three to five miles a day right now, but is dropping poundage and learning skills.
Tubesocks, Terry, Shawna, and Papa Rose, Pine Grove General Store porch
Papa Rose comes by, slack-packing, and says he has decided to keep slack-packing more today and skip the hostel. I give him my e-mail and ask him to send a photo of his climb to Katahdin, which he plans to do in August to complete his 2000. The (pair of section hikers) stroll in, also plan on staying at the hostel. Terry (dad) and Shawna (daughter) got inspired to start section hiking after she read “A Walk in the Woods” and got him to read it also. “Let’s do that!”
Another thru-hiker comes by, Steamer, also planning to hostel. He took a couple of weeks off at Harpers Ferry when he discovered his body was a mess. “The trail can kick your butt.” Steamer looks just like “John Locke” from “Lost”.
Earlier another hiker starting from Harpers Ferry this year to complete his AT hike started last year, will thereby complete his Triple Crown, since he already did the CDT and PCT. Tall, and long legged, his pack appeared ultra-light.
Tubesocks notices a partially erased tattoo on Terry’s lower leg. Turns out it used to have his wife’s (Shawna’s mom) name on it– before they divorced. Tubesocks talks about a friend he trades tatts for photo/website/miscellaneous services, and says that koi tattoo are very often used to cover an old tattoo– presumably because of its bold lines and colors. I burst out in amazed laughter. “That’s the great thing about the trail”, I exclaim. “All this knowledge you would never have been exposed to in normal life.” Tubesocks could go into detail about a great many thru-hikers, which is a lesson to me: You do not have to keep pace with anybody if you can put yourself out there and share deeply during that moment of passing.
Tubesock’s tummy tatt
Appalachia
Iron Furnace at Pine Grove Furnace State Park
I discover that the local hostel does not have laundry facility, so go on to the next shelter.
June 12, Wednesday James Fry Shelter to Alec Kennedy Shelter, 8.1
Last night I asked Steamer, “What about your rain hear? Have you ever seen any hiker on the AT with an umbrella?”
He scowls like there’s an unpleasant taste in his mouth. “Two. (pause) One wouldn’t listen to anyone; had to go his own way. (pause) Generally I just take a rain day for an all day rain.”
This morning sky is threatening, but hasn’t started rain yet. Getting all the way to Boiling Springs gets me to grocery store that might, just might, have ace bandages, possible relief for knee. I wore an ace bandage every day for 1988 AT trip, and seemed to help. The town might also have a hotel with laundry. No such amenities for a week now. About twenty miles away, high for my injured condition, but possible if I walk slowly and carefully. This terrain is some of the gentlest on the AT, passing through farm fields… once you get down the mountain.
Steamer and Poet are in tents, so I am alone in the shelter. Able to quietly leave by 6AM, eating my Logan bread breakfast while hiking.
After a bit drizzling begins, and I pull out my umbrella. Still another shelter, with some rocks I seem to remember, then easy down to Boiling Springs. The rain comes down harder, my boots start to look slightly damp on the outside. First the toe guard, then the front suede stripes, then the next suede stripes, progressing backwards. I remember Steamer pointing out the shoes cost two days of wet feet when soaked; I assume because of the extra cushioning. He speaks from experience as he still wears his original Moabs from when he started the Trail. Wet feet, and partially wet shorts at the edges where umbrella does not always extend. I hit the rocks on the run before Alec Kennedy Shelter, and discover a maze, where the trail playfully threads its way zig-zagged through rocks, huge boulder outcroppings on an exposed ridge. Not so playful now. A cross-breeze as I hit the exposed area make umbrellas not possible, even if you did not need both hands for trekking poles. Insane to go back, insane to go forward, worse to stay put. Water resistant wind shirt goes on, then rain mittens to keep hands from freezing. Vibram soles on Moabs perform superbly, clinging to soaked limestone with uncanny tenacity. Finally through the maze, and a long several miles down to the shelter while thoroughly soaked. Luckily no one is in the shelter to witness my stupidity. As I quaff multiple hot chocolates and an extra hot dinner, I vow to heed thru-hikers’ advice attentively, and definitely take rain days when all-day-rains are forecast.
Couple of hours later Papa Rose strolls in from the rain like it was nothing, has a quick unheated lunch snack, and plunges back into the maelstrom. “Wanna finish this section and see family!” Then Mad Hat and a young local section hiker named Terry arrive. They hiked even further in the downpour. Mad Hat says, “I love hiking in rain; get some of my best mileage days.”
Later I learn Steamer hiked on into Boiling Springs that same day. So I hear.
June 13, Wednesday, Alec Kennedy Shelter to Darlington Shelter, 18.2
Easy 3 or 4 miles from Alec Kennedy down to Boiling Springs PA. Mad Hat and I get an early start for a funny reason: Terry lights up a cigarette while still inside his sleeping bag, at 4:20AM, then falls back to sleep. I’m not mad in the slightest, for I have another anecdote and know another eccentric character. (Wait until Coco reads about this.) I am truly surprised at the percentage of 20-something thru-hikers that light up a fag first thing when pulling into a shelter for the evening. How can they still perform as well as they do? Why?
Pennsylvania farmland
Down to a lovely bucolic town, with centerpiece a lake with unlikely degree of transparency, with fish, ducks, and even a swan. An ATC office is already open, and a welcoming staff person points me to the AC outlet. My philosophy is, if you’re waiting or resting, you might as well be charging. Mad Hat goes in search of breakfast. The post office no longer opens at 8, so I hike a mile out to a supermarket in search of: 2 ace bandages, watch battery, mole foam, and spare pen. They market only has one ace bandage and no watch battery. (Small town people mush really appreciate Amazon.) On way back stop into a convenience store and find a single ace bandage on the shelf. Score! Find mile foam at fisherman’s outfitters near ATC office, but no runners shorts, alas. Get mail box and take back to office to organize.
Lake at Boiling Springs
A mom and two little girls, flanked by an even smaller brothers, comes to drop off some fresh grapes for hikers. The girls are too shy to get near us, and designate Mom as their agent. A “trail angel” is someone who bestows a kindness on hikers. This mom is teaching her little girls to be angels at an early age, and I testify the grapes tasted the sweeter for it.
Boiling Springs
Meat and Aeolus (spelling?)(formerly Austrian but now South Carolinian) are other hikers getting ready. I wrap my shin and knee with high hopes, then call Coco on her 18th birthday.
Finally get ready for a long 15 mile hike on very level farmlands and “hedgerows” (really tree-field boundaries) with no water source until the shelter… and of course soggy feet. Fields of corn and clover. Silos, paths winding through mulberry trees ripe with fruit, some kind of cherry tree with dark fruit, wild strawberries, and nearby traffic noise all day from turnpike and/or other freeways.
At one place Aeolus taking a break and invites me to join him. He sees the trouble I am having with my leg and kindly offers detailed advice and mini lesson in biomechanics, based on his experience after breaking both ankles and studying properties of shoes very closely. While unwrapping my two bandages I am shaken to discover a swollen ankle. Were the wrappings too tight? More tendonitis? Will probably require hiking down to nearest town and staying there until I have answers.
Hmmm
Lightning bugs frolic outside the shelter. Why indulge in depressing thoughts when lightning bugs are about?
June 14, Thursday, Darlington Shelter to The Doyle, 11.4
In Darlington Shelter for the night with me was Mad Hat and Just John. Aeolus and Meat tented. All were planning to spend a night in The Doyle, a hotel dedicated to serving hikers. From Calculator I got the impression that if you are thru-hiking and haven’t done The Doyle, you have really missed what the AT was about.
After a week on the Trail, my injuries, probably tendonitis, threaten the entire enterprise. The Doyle is super-inexpensive, hostel rates, so I plan on at least two nights in town healing, and have my beloved “Base Support” overnight equipment replacements.
Downtown Duncannon PA
Six hour hike down to town, with the typical large elevation change, but after five hours I had not lost any elevation. And now the trail is getting rocky. I am last into town but I made it. Steamer is found at the bar in The Doyle, also stayed two nights. But first about town: Duncannon is a huge contrast with Boiling Springs, run-down wood buildings instead of stately field-stone, railroad line blocking access to waterfront, working class town, once beaten down, trying to pick itself up and reclaim downtown buildings. The Doyle is over 100 year old, one of the original Anhauser-Busch hotels. Lots of bars and pubs on main street.
The Doyle, Duncannon
Vicki and Pat at The Doyle
The Doyle… well for normal people you might hesitate to stay there. Looking around the inside, you definitely wouldn’t stay there. But to a hiker, a chance at a shower and soft bed and chance to relax with fellow hikers, well you are willing to overlook a crumbling old structure, communal bathrooms, and no sign of anything to code anywhere. To sign-in I walk into the bar, see hikers with beers, know I’m in the right place. Vicki greets me and signs me in, Pat is in back handling cooking. Up to my fourth floor room by stairs, find the shower, wait in the common area until it’s unoccupied, then shower. Next a choice of food or laundry. I go down and ask Vicki if the duct tape on the coin washing machine in the bathroom means what I think. But a laundry is just two blocks down; I passed it coming in. Yet I see someone at the bar being served a real cheeseburger, and I gotta get one. Then laundry while charging, rest, talk to “Base Support” who is really helpful on medical issues.
The Doyle
Later for dinner I see Mad Hat at an Italian joint, Zeiderelli’s, and join him. I had a cheese steak sandwich. He was trying to finish a “small” sausage pizza. I helped a little. Mad Hat was a conductor for the Union-Pacific Railroad, retired at sixty, now hiking in early sixties. His was a union job, now part of the teamsters. He is also a volunteer firefighter, which I later learn he started in his twenties.
With his beard and Minnesota accent, I have to ask him if he knows “The Red Green Show”, and that he looks and sounds something like Red Green, which he takes in good humor. The beard is just for the hike, so I might not recognize him afterwards.
Sleep comes readily. My cell phone recharges, and so do I.
June 15, Friday, The Doyle, Duncannon PA, zero
Waking in an actual bed indoors, clean and with clean clothes, was a delightful experience after a week on The Trail. Even better is spending time in an official “trail town” that makes an effort to cater to hikers. I stumbled across the road to Goodies, and found Mat Hat finishing the French toast special. I join him and had the same. Hat was on his way up The Trail. Also said farewell to Aeolus and Just John. John had repaired his boot (yes, boot, not shoe) with shoe goo he found at the local hardware store. His foot was also giving him trouble, but he was hiking on.
Later saw Sprinkles and Nokey at The Doyle. Sprinkles had an appointment with a doctor about her ankle. They had a possible side trip with thirteen members of his family in a cottage on the outer banks of North Carolina shore. His family would be driving through town today, so they would have to decide soon which path to take. Later she tells me the doctor diagnosed bursitis of the ankle, gave some recommendations, knowing she wouldn’t be stopping hiking but given methods of reducing pain and damage. For anti-inflammatory meds the doctor recommended Aleve, perhaps because of fewer doses(?).
Juan Solo is the new trail name of an eighteen year old thru-hiker with southern Californian valley accent who I met at Tea Horse Inn hostel at Harpers Ferry. He is with Wall-E as they are ordering The Doyle’s chicken strips in buffalo sauce. In walk Terry and Shawna! They were ending their section hike in Duncannon. This is their first AT section, though they hiked a lot on other trails. Their car was only a couple of blocks away to take them back to civilization, but the have to stop at this hiking institution known as The Doyle. They order; I get a salmon burger. Nokey and Sprinkles let me know they are going to North Carolina. After repast I give Terry and Shawna a tour of the hotel, with particular attention to eccentric details I have discovered.
Terry and Shawna end their hike at The Doyle
Tour of The Doyle rooms
I bid Terry and Shawna a hearty farewell. Will be strange not seeing them turn up unexpectedly. Maybe they will do some day hikes just to mess with my mind.
The trail runner Coach comes into the Doyle, polishes off a pork chop and baked potato feast, and gives some advice on the upcoming trail and treatment of my leg. He also says Rausch Shelter is closed but alternatives exist. Later, looking at the Companion, I do not see good options. No tenting at the Rausch is allowed, and other shelters are already too far away from it for the slow stately ramp-up I had planned.
Suddenly no buddies around. But I have some equipment to modify, an item to order, and leg to ice. And at 4PM I take the free shuttle to the large-ish supermarket, along a busy road too dangerous for hikers to make by foot; get some extra food since I plan to ramp mileage up slowly this week. I am joined on grocery outing by DW (which stands for “Dog Whisperer”, since he was bitten by a dog).
The rest of Pennsylvania is reputed to be seriously rocky, real training for New Hampshire and Maine. If I can just make it through “Rocksylvania”…
June 16, Saturday, The Doyle to Peter’s Mountain Shelter, 11.2
Two days of rest&relaxation at The Doyle were good for the body, but white blazes are calling! After treating myself to a last cooked breakfast at Goodies across the street (open at 6AM), grab my pack and bid a fond farewell to Duncannon, a real trail town. Starting at 6:45AM, the town was quiet with a few joggers out. My plan is to try a slow majestic ramp of mileage until Port Clinton, while getting used to inserts. (Nokey said the Superfeet may hurt the first two weeks, but you may notice your knees, ankles, and feet lining up straighter over time.) Also plan continuing analgesics and cat meds (oral steroids), knee brace, and cold packs at the end of the day.
The first day is pretty easy, climbing up to a ridge and enjoying views on both sides of the valleys below. I fear my modest cell camera will not be able to capture the essence. Sure, the trail is rocky, and I am prepared and expecting rocks for the rest of Pennsylvania.
Soon I am passed by DW, but chance to catch up and chat while he stops for lunch snack. Youngish, he was a journalist in Indiana but expects never to work for a newspaper again. He is currently blogging for a small press website, and blogging his trip by sending entries to his girlfriend from Louisville. He expects to leave Indiana, possibly for a location with more outdoor recreational choices.
Just John comes by and greets. I thought he was already way down the trail. I explained my slow ramp, so he might know I won’t bump into him on trail for a few days. Although The Trail continues to surprise…
My hike is already finished at 3PM at Peter’s Mountain Shelter, a mere eleven miles. Here is a vast twenty-person structure with a loft. I am joined by a father and teenage daughter and schnauzer, though eventually they retire to a tent. I think they are bothered by the prospect of mice scurrying around at night, even though I explain that my snoring usually drives them away. The family is section hiking the AT in Pennsylvania in small chunks.
Being a weekend, I see many day hikers and expect lots of company in the shelter, but I might be the only one.
The distance to the next shelter, Rausch, is 17.8 miles, which strikes me as excessively distant. Rausch is closed, with signs posted warning northbounders. We will all have to tent in primitive campsites at least one night.
I am currently at the site of the original AT Shelter, built by Shaffer, later removed and put in the AT Museum, which I already viewed. When he originally build the shelter, it was without a floor. Later named in his honor. A floor was later added, and he asked that his name be taken off the shelter, as he felt that wood floors would attract vermin. Three hundred stone steps down to the spring, not a trip I wish to repeat.
Very late, after my journal entry, Whistles makes her entrance. Here is only the second young woman thru-hiker I have seen walking long distances alone, after Lady Forward. She normally travels with Crush, Peppaboy, and that extensive group, but is doing this part of Pennsylvania north-to-south after attending a friend’s wedding in Philly and soon another in Virginia. Then back with friends on trail. We end up talking of many things: her volunteer work for rape crisis and teen sex education, getting EMT certification. I ask the impertinent and borderline-forbidden question about plans after the AT. “Well, ‘Dad’ …”, she responds with a sarcastic tone, which cracks me up. Well played.
June 17, Sunday, Peter’s Mountain Shelter to Rausch Shelter, 18.0
Whistles and I bid fond farewells and hopes of future trail meeting. Dear reader, you must understand how uncannily often that happens on The Trail. Four miles down, I remember that last evening Whistles observed that she accidentally left her fuel bottle in the previous shelter, and that would have been a good time for me to offer hot water– and me with extra fuel. I am so dense… well, a guy and a geek.
Today will be a walk in solitude. I continue to travel along the narrow ridge, trees blocking all but glimpses of farms and towns on either side, then down a thousand feet to a road, back up a thousand feet. Weather stays cool and clear all day, but not enough breeze to blow away gnats intent on getting in eyes and ears for their own nefarious ends.
Gradually the trail leaves a ridge and follows a meandering stream, with ground more level though still pretty high up. A few miles further than planned, I hike all the way to Rausch Shelter to take advantage of the cold spring water used for cold packs to help my leg at the end of the day.
The shelter is in the middle of reconstruction and has no roof. The shelter platform is still extant, so I could sleep cowboy style. On the other hand, my latest forecast is for rain tomorrow, so I practice setting up my tent-tarp for first time on this trip. Hmmm, it doesn’t look like it offers much protection in a blowing downpour. Well, I may find out soon.
Rausch Shelter being reconstruc
My leg and feet seem to be getting better a little. I should still keep mileage moderate for a few days. Knock on wood.
First use of tent-tarp, near Rausch Shelter
Quiet day. Saw almost no thru-hikers the entire time. I may be traveling in a bubble.
June 18, Monday, Rausch Shelter to 501 Shelter, 17.5
One advantage of tenting by myself is being able to break camp with disturbing anyone. Out by 6AM– huzzah! On the way out, notice the lone southbounder’s tent was joined by another. The sky looks gray, very likely rain later. Pretty smooth trail without rocks for a while, then ridge walking again, down to roads, including underpass for I-81, the only man-made structure to shelter from rain until Penn’s Shelter hours from the highway. Shortly after, a light rain starts, and I find the umbrella can be twined through my pack straps and slightly rest on my head, leaving both hands free for trekking poles on the copious rocks. Slowly, inexorably, the shoes go from damp to wet to soaking, and I stop to wring out socks about five times during the day.
Swatara Creek footbridge
The rain starts around 9:30AM and only lasts an hour or two– not the afternoon rains I am used to at home– but extra grass magically appears to capture and release moisture onto my shoes. Hmmm, should I try low-cut water resistant gaiters? Anyway I already proved that wet feet will not harm me permanently, so on to William Penn Shelter by 1PM. One mystery guest sleeping in the shelter, so I sit at the picnic table, eat and wring socks a last time.
William Penn Shelter
Descending down to a highway, I discover trail magic! A trail angel has left a cooler of iced sodas and bags of Doritos and assorted snacks for hikers. The angel, Zig Zag, includes a book to sign like a shelter journal.
Trail magic by Zig Zag
Finally reach 501 Shelter around 3:30PM. This shelter is completely enclosed, with a polygonal sun-roof, twelve bunks, and “solar shower” completely covered by tree cover so the solar gain is negligible.
501 Shelter
The people inside are unfamiliar to me, until Peppaboy enters a few minutes later. Peppaboy laughs a lot, so I can tell he is in a shelter before I see anyone there. He thru-hiked the AT four years ago by flip-flopping. Twenty-eight, he saved up, quit his job, and is now thru-hiking again where he ends at Katahdin.
Big Sky and Diesel are a couple at the shelter. She never hiked or back-packed before starting the AT. She is now getting really bored with hiking each day.
Sitting at the central table, I ask Peppaboy and G-Bird about future stops I should not miss, since they both hiked the northern sections of the AT recently. They pull out Awols, and Big Sky and Diesel join in and listen. I make note of several hostels, snacking opportunities, and other locations to definitely visit.
Zig Zag, the trail angel, comes in and takes a bunk above me. Later she becomes ill, but thinks it is food poisoning since her husband is having the same symptoms. Slingshot, Kelly, and a kid seem to be hiking together. G-Bird is section hiking from Harpers Ferry to Maine, starting on June 9, so she is faster than me on average. She already did the same section last year! Age twenty-two, from Sweden, majoring in international business, she only has the summers to hike, and does not want to hike southern AT in heat of summer. She has hiked the Camino de Santiago three times! Her plan upon graduating in a year or two is to thru-hike the Pacific Crest Trail. On her AT trip last year her trail name was Trauma. Got giardia and only did not treat water one time. Banged a clavicle and had several other mishaps.
G-Bird hikes with -12C sleeping bag!
Zig Zag tried to thru-hike last year, got 70% complete, but had to quit because of medical complications. She had hypo thyroid that switched to hyper (or vice versa) and lost a lot of weight. Now she is giving back by being a trail angel. Which is a lesson on how to gracefully switch from a bitter defeat to constructive public service. Her living example makes her a trail angel in more ways than she knows. Thus endeth the parable of Zig Zag.
June 19, Tuesday, 501 Shelter to Eagle’s Nest Shelter, 15.1
The huge central skylight at 501 Shelter acts as on acoustic amplifier for rain drops, making a small drizzle seen a torrent. People seem slow to rise, so I do not start moving until 6:45AM, and on the trail by 7:30AM.
Skylight at 501
A wet feet day, and early light rain insures a wet-foot day tomorrow. Luckily, the day starts with lots of rocks! You read that right. Rocks mean less grass, and grass means wetter feet, so Pennsylvania rocks have toughened me up to appreciate their advantages.
Dewdrops on spider web
The path is more or less level, with few view opportunities, no people in sight, and a moderate fifteen mile day, so it is possible to zone out and be in autopilot mode. Later the blazes become scarce, and the fog does not light until 2PM. Light-blue blazes look rather white in the fog.
I’m on track for 3PM arrival and promise of dry feet. Diesel passes me at 2PM, and PeppaBoy and G-Bird zoom by at 2:30. I can hear them chatting back and forth down the trail– they seem to be having a good day together. Big Sky catches up, and I push my speed up a little higher than safe for my legs. She says go ahead– she didn’t want to pass.
After the arrival at Eagle’s Nest Shelter, some relationship drama ensues, and Big Sky and Diesel move on.
Eagles Nest Shelter
A father and two teen join us to dry out and tent-camp nearby. They are from Florida, section hiking the AT in order, three weeks at a time: Just Dad, Pyro, and Blazer. (I later learn this charming family has been written up in AT Journeys magazine.)
Blazer, Just Dad, Pyro, G-Bird, and PeppaBoy
June 20, Wednesday, Eagle’s Nest Shelter to Port Clinton Pavilion, 8.6
In Eagles Nest Shelter were G-Bird, a late arrival southbounder (sobo), and myself. In tents were Peppaboy and the trio Just Dad, Pyro, and Blazer.
Short day today, but long enough, and hot enough. Rocks on the steep climb down were damp even though the leaves and ground were dry. It was hot enough the rocks were “sweating”.
Down into Port Clinton, a tiny town with loud traffic and few services, though the people were friendly except for the staff at the Port Clinton Hotel, where I procured a shower and laundry. By the time I walked back to the pavilion I needed another shower, it was so hot.
Port Clinton
Big tactical error when doing laundry: forgot to bring my charger! No electricity at pavilion or anywhere else, until the kind postal clerk pointed out one free plug in the post office later.
When doing laundry, Just Dad came down, saying the kids were parked in the motel room upstairs while he does chores like laundry and replace a leaky sleeping pad. He, like I, was disappointed to find there was not a regular shuttle service to Cabela’s (outdoor superstore) as guides and trail lore would have one believe. Back at the pavilion, G-Bird was skipping the next section (superfund site) and would rejoin the AT in a couple of days, presumably synched to Peppaboy‘s hike. Her friend Book-Smart from last year’s hike rented a car and they will zero around for a couple of days. He offered rides to Cabela’s since G-Bird needed boots there. I joined up and asked if Just Dad could come. We found him in the hotel laundry room, and he got ready to come with us super-fast.
Cabela’s super-stor
I had never gone to Cabela’s. Life-size animals are displayed with toy guns the kids ca use to practice shooting. Huge floorspace. Desk at front where you checked your guns. I scored a few key items, but forgot two because I did not make a list, but a good trip. The last time I was in a big-box store seems ages ago.
Kids can shoot at critters inside Cabela’s
After returning to the pavilion, G-Bird said her good-byes and pointed out we might not meet each other on The Trail again: She hikes fast. On to the post office to get food drop, mail back some items, send letters, and recharge a little. Then back to pavilion to pack food in new dry bag and sort out equipment.
Joiner and Progress, from outside DC, come by and go out in search of sustenance. Slingshot and Frenchy come by and looked at pavilion dubiously, and will likely try tenting in the park across the street.
June 21, Thursday, Port Clinton Pavilion to Allentown Shelter, 22.6
Port Clinton was perhaps not the best choice for the night. Although well-hidden by trees, the road was close-by and high with truck traffic, noisy with “jake brakes”. Close by the river, it was quite buggy. The good-hearted citizens installed a nearby street light that stays on all night. And did you know Pennsylvania is hot in the summer? So imagine me sleeping on a couple of hot benches pushed together, with a bandana tied over my eyes as sleep mask, a bug net over the head, ear plugs, sometimes flipping over the sleep pad because it is so sweaty, and often fanning the sleeping back to disperse the heat.
If only I had headed out even as late as 6PM, would have hit a spring and potential campsite, and it doesn’t get dark until 8PM. Out in the morning at 6AM, and find trail magic at the first water stop! The trail offers high ridge with some views, and a few rock fields and roadways, gratefully accepted. Keep being passed and passing Just Dad and crew. Finally reached Eckville Shelter at hot mid-day, situated a short distance down a residential street The shelter was behind a caretaker’s residence, and this well-aged hearty individualist with thick German accent was perpetually on the move with outside chores: power washing the shed, trimming bushes, painting the porch, on and on, never stopping.
Caretaker at Eckville, always busy
Eckville is known for having a solar shower, and after that hot hike (rumored to 100F) I planned to do that first thing, BUT, who do I see waiting in the shelter area? Peppaboy! Seems he had heat exhaustion that really knocked him down, and could only hike 6 or 8 miles the previous day.
The shower was refreshing, and I allowed the water to soak my day-clothes and wore them during the heat of the afternoon. Just Dad and crew arrive and seek out the tenting area, a grassy shady lot across the street. I alternate chatting with them and the crew nearer the shelter, including Peppaboy and Bobcat.
Eckville Shelter has a charging station for visitors to use without having to ask. I really appreciate that, and could even call Coco and e-mail “Base Support”, since 3G is available. I am having an equipment problem they could solve. My trekking pole tips were wearing out, and if they wear any further it would destroy the tip screw mechanism, making the poles unusable. They could send me spare tips quickly to the next post office.
This is one of the hottest days yet, and I drink double the amount of water. The plan was to start early, hike until hot, then rest until the heat breaks and hike some more. So at 4PM I start the three to four hour hike to Allentown Shelter, about the same time as Peppaboy and Bobcat. Finally arrived at 7:45PM, quickly get water and hang a bear line, and set up my tent-tarp. I planned to use it instead of shelter so I could sleep with fewer clothes on without grossing anyone out. Also joined at site by Progress and Joiner.
June 22, Friday, Allentown Shelter to Palmerton hostel, 17.7
Shower in the middle of the night. Packed tent after wiping it dry. Not out until 8AM– scandalous! Today would be a no-trekking-pole day due to tip problem mentioned earlier. Lots of huge boulder jumping where trekking poles could be handy. About the time Progress and Joiner pass me I slip once, unharmed, and try to keep up with them of a bit so they can render first aid if needed. :-) Progress has a spare pole and kindly offers, but I am in rhythm of using hands. Who carries a spare pole? Not understanding.
Progress, Bobcat, and Joiner on PA rocks
Several more boulder runs during the day, mixed with some dirt roads. I’m not too proud to hike on dirt roads, nosiree. Some trails indifferently blazed, and Pennsylvania wildlife area marker looks too much like a white blaze. Later in, I discover the white reflective marker used for power transmission line right-of-way looks remarkably like a white blaze, and spend a pleasant hour on a false trail, including the most technically challenging boulder hopping of the day, which everyone else missed. Yet I was only twenty feet from the real trail, and was not too proud to ask a local on a smoke break on some back road where to go.
Stopped shortly after mid-day for water at Bake Oven Knob Shelter. The closest spring was dry, so had to go down another several hundred feet for spring number 2. Peppaboy arrived at the shelter to rest, and brought back a few black raspberries to share after his water run. While he rested, I took off. Several miles to next shelter, and I was undecided about staying in shelter or going to free hostel hosted by town government of Palmerton.
Up high on a ridge, a thunderstorm struck, with discharges rather close by. Just had to keep walking and hope trail gets off ridge soon… which it did. Rain followed, only thirty minutes worth. First time using my rain jacket, since I sent umbrella home. Finally got to last shelter of the day, George W. Outerbridge Shelter, and was happy for the piped spring nearby. Peppaboy shows up, resting a bit, and I decide to plunge on into town and he follows soon. Everyone else we had walking around during the day had by-passed the mid-day shelter and were already in town.
As I started to get to the blue-blaze trail into town, Peppaboy catches up, and I follow him, since he had gone through town a few years ago. We (he) decide to skip following blue blazes up a steep hill, reasoning the trail must drop down to the road we are following and cross some bridge over the river we are paralleling. We walk way too far. Apparently a foot bridge with a short-cut has gate closed after 4:30PM, so we had to take the hard way.
Nice clean hostel, with laundromat and useful businesses nearby. We arrive around 6:30 or 7:00, and I quickly gather stuff for things at once: shower, start laundry, leave phone charging, get Chinese takeout (including potstickers) and eat on steps of town hall, make a run to pharmacy for sundries, back to laundry to finish up.
Doors locked and lights out at 10PM. Relaxed easy vibe among all the hikers, nearly all who I have met on trail before. Saw Saunter, who I haven’t seen in a while, and Lady Forward, who I have been a day behind for a long time. Good mix of people, easy conversation.
June 23, Saturday, Palmerton hostel to primitive camp 2 miles past Wind Gap, 22.4
When is it acceptable to start stirring in a hiker hostel? The oldest guys move earliest for old guy urgent morning business, Saunter, Croc, and then myself. I go upstairs to the empty gym to finish a trail journal entry, and when I get back a few minutes later nearly everyone is already gone. this is a problem for me, because I came into town on an unconventional route, and have no idea of correct way back to the AT. And Peppaboy seems to be sleeping in. I did get a hint from Dog Whisperer to try Third Street, so I follow that until a friendly older couple out on a porch point me further towards the correct way. Odd this route doesn’t have a physical blue blaze. I’m about to climb up to the Trail when I join Saunter and Croc. We see a blue blaze next to a white blaze, and Saunter is certain we should take it– I am less sure after yesterday’s detour. As we climb he realizes it is the old AT, closed for EPA remediation, and will join back up with the current AT at the top, but our route is in the shade and shorter than the official trail. Sure enough, at the top we meet Jerry Not Bad who started before me. Also see Lady Forward, who is walking similar pace but behind and mostly out of sight all day. The climb up the ridge of the remediation offers some of the best views of my trip. Clear vistas of old industrial sites and small towns and fields laid out for our appreciation. I seem to be hiking in a bubble the rest of the day. I have to take a break at a water spring that involves a long off-trail hike, and I assume any trailing hikers near my bubble pass me at this point.
Blue Mountain as seen from Palmerton
Old industrial sites as viewed from Blue Mountain
The placement of shelters is not so great for my situation. Leroy Smith Shelter is a 16 mile day, which would make the next day a twenty mile hike into town, so I would arrive late and not be able to enjoy town as much. Going beyond Smith to the next shelter is 29 miles, clearly too long a hike.
When I finally arrive at Leroy Smith at 5PM I look around, and decide to walk on. Perhaps I will dry camp tonight somewhere in the middle between the two shelters. My guidebook documents a friendly hotel owner just five miles down the trail who gives hikers free water and sells sodas. I buy a couple to show gratitude, get extra water from hose. Back on The Trail I begin looking for campsites north of Windy Gap. Finally settle on a spot around 7:30PM, throw a bear line, set up tent, use remaining wipes to clean off for tick inspection, and cook double hot dinners. I hiked a long day and do not want hunger pangs at 3AM, particularly inconvenient when your food bag is hanging way up in a tree. All finished by 9PM, read a little e-book, and sleep with satisfaction that I should be able to get to Delaware Water Gap by next early afternoon and have a town day.
The night was a little cooler than before, so briefly I could crawl into sleeping bag nekkid instead of staying on top of it all night.
June 24, Sunday, primitive camp 2 miles past Wind Gap to Church of the Mountain Hostel, Delaware Water Gap, 13.6
I awake and break camp at my location a couple of miles trail north of Wind Gap. Head out by 6AM, doing a fourteen mile short day, not expecting to stop much. Should be in town by 2 or 3.
Pennsylvania is not done with us as far as hiking on rocks. Bouldering, little ankle-crunching rocks, mixed with little bits of smooth trail. Gnats start buzzing early today, 9AM instead of after noon the day before.
Getting to Kirkridge Shelter seems to take a long time, though I appreciate the water faucet on a short blue blaze trail. For a lot of the day we would be taken along a ridge that was one of the least frequently blazed in my experience, and I had to re-walk a fifteen minute segment to convince myself I was really still on The Trail. Then a long descent on rocky path all the way down to town, lovely in places lined with mountain laurel, passing many dozens of locals out for a day hike, all seeming to be walking much easier than I am, especially the 4-year-old kids that just went by.
I decide to do an emergency field repair on one trekking pole to help me get down. I am noticing shin pain that has not been present for several days, and new locations for pre-blisters where my feet should now be all toughness. Anyway, a piece of old rubber trekking pole tip I find on the trail plus some molefoam and seam sealer make a half-way durable tip to give me a pole for the downhill.
Finally, finally the trail enters a parking lot and ten civilization. Oh, there is the famed ice cream shop that is located directly on The Trail! Just a little ways down is Church of the Mountain Hostel. I walk in, and no one is around at 3PM, though packs are scattered. Looking at the register I see Not Bad walked directly from Palmerton Hostel to here in one day, over thirty miles! I also notice Big Sky and Diesel are registered. I find the towel closet and enjoy a shower. One hiker, just leaving, tells me about milkshakes at the ice cream place and hot dogs and pie for $2.49 special at Village Farmer and Bakery. I go out at partake of both. Much bloating. Also walk by two tiny outfitter shops and establish they do not carry what I need.
Ice cream shoppe right on The Trail
Carbs
Back to hostel and a few hikers who tend to always be well ahead (Frodo, Pancake, …) are soon leaving. Diesel and Big Sky come in and chat, and move on, apparently to a hotel room. Peppaboy shows up. Then Lady Forward and DW. And a section hiker southbound, Mountain Ann.
Church of the Mountain hostel
Conversation in shelter, paraphrased:
Sagebrush: During long hiking days I’ve been trying to envision “Appalachian Trail the Video Game” for Wii Fit. The nunchuk controllers could be trekking poles. Leaning on the balance board controls which rock you step on next. A little status window shows your water, agility, food, and so forth.
Peppaboy: You know, I’ve also been imagining the AT Video Game. Like the way you think
DW: [comes in from other room] I’ve been thinking about this as well. Simply hiking would be too boring. You have to have options like Grand Theft Auto. While thumbing a ride, you can car-jack and cause general mayhem.
Imagining the video game of the AT, while hiking the AT: It’s a guy thing.
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