Rain Finally

PCT 2018 Day 56, June 17, Sunday.

Start mile 1160.8, Peter Grubb Hut

End at second crossing of Milton Creek, mile 1191.5

Miles walked: 30.7

The morning sky is overcast and dark, and with a sudden crash of thunder showers begin. As I climb, rain turns to pellet snow and covers the path. Later I climb down lower in altitude, and rain showers resume. With no sun for most of the day, the temperature is cold, and I must wear down vest, windbreaker, raincoat, and gloves for warmth, though keeping walking all day is the main way to keep warm. Toward the end of the day many switchbacks bring me down to 5k elevation, and I camp just a few miles from town, with rain against the tent until I fall asleep.

I meet Boogie, nobo starting at Donner, already thru-hiked a few years ago, wanting to do Oregon and Washington this year. I also met a couple of southbound flip-floppers going too fast to talk.

Finished audiobook The Tavern Knight, by Rafael Sabatini.

Donner

PCT 2018 Day 55, June 16, Saturday.

Start mile 1137.9 campsite

End mile 1160.8, Peter Grubb Hut

Miles walked: 22.9

Climb up, then down, then up again to nearly 9k elevation at Tinkers Knob. Then the path goes atop a high exposed ridge for several miles in brisk wind, higher than any nearby peaks so that you feel touching the ceiling of the world. I meet a few flip-floppers during the day, and they believe their group is huge, often starting from the town of Dunsmuir. Approaching historic Donner Pass, I meet many many day hikers, as we descend on rock switchbacks. Donner Snow Ranch offers shower and laundry to hikers at a low price. Real nice people. I stop for a couple of hours and enjoy their food and wifi. Afterwards I meet Mantis and Oats, northbounders like me, and tell them about the pie a la mode, so they head that direction.

A little beyond Castle Pass is Grubb Hut, a cabin open to hikers. Note the outhouse with two stories. You use the top one when the snow is high. The cabin itself is also built with second story access in case of snow. The lower floor is a dining area, with sleeping quarters above. I am the only tenant this night. The upper story is naturally warm and cozy, so I only need my sleeping bag liner. The cabin shuts out the frog croaking of the flooded meadow outside, and all other animal sounds, leaving a profound quiet inside.

Ski Boundary

PCT 2018 Day 54, June 15, Friday.

Start mile 1112.6, campsites at Phipps Creek

End mile 1137.9 campsite Miles walked: 25.3 Rotting in forest Bright green lichen Climbing up, I can see Lake Tahoe in the distance, better than my camera can. Looking at jagged peaks in distance, likely where I am headed. The path departs from the Tahoe Rim Trail, so I see fewer hikers. The trail does climb up on a high steep ridge. The wind is fierce, making the altitude seem higher than 9k. The ridge is part of a ski area boundary. I meet some PCT hikers going the other way, flip-flopping to give the Sierras time to thaw.

Finished audiobook Tess of the Durbervilles, by Thomas Hardy,