June 25, Monday, Delaware Water Gap PA to primitive camp 0.5 miles before Crater Lake, 19.4
The post office didn’t open until 8:30, so I figured I might be one of the last to leave this comfortable hostel, but several decided to go to the nearby outfitters, which opens at 10– definitely not hiker-friendly hours. A brief thunderstorm and downpour at 7:30– what’s with these storms at odd hours? At the nearby post office got my food AND trekking pole tips, mailed back some minor items. Went back and repackaged food, and tried an equipment experiment. Ever since Harpers Ferry I have been carrying my cell phone in a front pocket, because I grab it frequently to take photos and refer to the e-book version of “Companion”. A shorts pocket is less than optimal for hiking, because the significant weight is moving back and forth with your leg movement, wasting energy and feeling awkward. I had hoped a nearby outfitter might have a case that strapped on a pack strap; alas they did not. Just in case I bought a cheapo camera case at Rite-Aid in Palmerton. So I set out to modify it to fasten on my pack strap, which already had d-rings and straps sewn on for this purpose.
Delaware River Bridge
Finally out by 10AM. Sadly the ice cream shop was closed, or I would have grabbed one last chocolate cone on my way out of Pennsylvania. I met several people on this stretch of trail. Phoenix Rising tried to thru-hike a couple of years ago but had to quit because of Lyme, and wants to complete this year. She is traveling with Angry Bird, on her first section hike. I saw Dog Whisperer (Not DW, this is a woman) who is hiking with two dogs. She stopped to chat when a ranger wanted to meet her dogs. Also met Jaws, who hikes with Big Sky during the day and then Big Sky and Diesel meet back up in the evening. Jaws is working on his master’s degree in aero-astro in Florida, and is using thru-hikers for his human factors design thesis. He has to be finished with The Trail in late August when school resumes.
After a climb we followed a level high ridge with views of water on either side, with lots of high grassland and comfortable forest. After an early social mix, I ended up walking in solitude and beauty most of the day. Peppaboy passed me around the lovely Sunfish Pond. No sign of our other companions from the hostel.
Sunfish Pond
I get to Mohican Outdoor Center at 3PM. I’m scheduled to stop here, but the Trail is really nice today with cooling breezes and no gnats. I take advantage of their snack shop and down a couple of sodas and bag of Doritos, and snag wifi to catch up on e-mail and fill water. I walk for a few more hours, then see a sign near Crater Lake “No camping next 3.5 miles”, realize I cannot get past that zone in time, and backtrack one-half mile to a primitive campsite. Phoenix and Angry Bird mentioned they were only going as far as Mohican. They seem fun, and I may have missed a chance to know them better. Jaws might have stopped there too, and I would like to talk to him more. The Trail beckons, but so do new friends.
Mohican Outdoor Center
June 26, Tuesday, primitive camp 0.5 miles before Crater Lake to Mashipacong Shelter, 17.8
The temperature dropped dramatically overnight. Being only dressed in camp clothes and mummy bag, it was a little hard to stay warm for once. (But now I will be prepared: optionally wearing daytime clothes, double socks, rain jacket, and wind jacket.) Broke camp at 6AM, wondering if I could attempt a twenty-plus day to get to High Point Shelter, one long hiking day from my mail-drop and next hostel in Vernon, New Jersey.
Scored my first known tick around 9:30AM, when one of the large black non-Lyme ones bit me on the shin. He did not have a good hold yet, so I just lightly brushed him off. We are encountering a lot of tall grass that might have been trimmed back in other states. Will need to be extra paranoid during nightly tick checks.
Culver Fire Tower
Got to first water at Brinks Road Shelter around 10AM. The first couple of hours hiking I had to wear the wind shirt, which would normally be too hot to hike in after a few minutes. I am encountering more rocks than expected for this section, but manage to set a pretty fast pace.
In early afternoon my feet begin hurting to a considerable degree, and no other body part is complaining, apart for an unusual degree of tiredness for this time of day.
For this next bit of trail shelters are spaced closely, which is a help. At Gren Anderson Shelter around 2PM I see a note in the journal that Peppaboy had passed by that morning. I did get passed by Frodo, but do not see much sign of my regular thru-hiker bubble during the day.
At 4PM I am really flagging, going much less than 2 miles/hour. I meet a couple of ladies with a huge white dog, and that cheers me up when I stop to take its picture.
Doggie
Finally around 5PM I get to Mashipacong Shelter and know I have to stop for the night. Two other hikers are there. One older gentleman, Smiling Jack, also started at Harpers, but he calculates he is going 50% of my pace. Miles (not really a trail name, but most hikers assume it is, so will be italicized) is three days into a section hike from Maryland to New Hampshire.
During tick check, found another tick hiding in sock, laying in wait for the next time I put it on. Showed it to Miles.
Tomorrow will listen to my body and not push distance. We are not far from a state park that offers free showers and a snack bar. I will gladly rest there, then try to get to a shelter close to town, to maximize my town day.
PS: Strange commotion last night: Miles was tossing and turning through the night, then at one point jumped up and grabbed a flashlight. Later I learn he felt a tick crawling around, and speared it with a ballpoint pen.
PPS: Smiling Jack showed me the evaporative cooling rig for his insulin. Heavy with the water. He said on his AT attempt last year the doctor told him he could stop monitoring after a certain number of days– guessing that by that time he should be considered fit and healthy. But that turned out to cause problems.
June 27, Wednesday, Mashipacong Shelter to Pochuck Shelter, 19.6
Miles and I pass each other off-and-on during the morning, arriving at the same time at Highpoint State Park. The nice woman at park headquarters offered us free sodas, a benefit of “Friends of High Point State Park. We go down to the beach and snack bar area, and for a beautiful immaculately maintained park with water and beach it seemed odd so few people were there yet, but it was mid-week. I waded in the cold clear water, which seemed to benefit my feet quite nicely. While charging (of course), supported the local economy to the tune of an Italian ice, pizza slice, small Doritos, and soda. Smiling Jack came down, and we all chilled until noon.
High Point State Park
Smiling Jack
After an initial rocky climb back to the high point of New Jersey, the Trail led through pastoral fields, old stone property boundary markers, patches of forest, and finally, around 5PM, through a wetlands preserve. Lots of flat trail, few rocks, and I was careful all day not to push speed except for some brief conversations with Miles before he zoomed on.
view of High Point marker
Followed a sign “to well water” which brought me the the “Jim Murray Property”, a lovely little spot that offers a private shelter for hikers. Lots of cool maps on the walls. Met Mac there, who I expect to see later down The Trail.
Jim Murray cabin
My goal was Pochuck Mountain Shelter, about a twenty mile day. Normally after the rough day yesterday that would be unrealistic, yet in this instance I knew about the flat smooth terrain. Smiling Jack and Miles were headed a few miles short of that– Unionville New York, which offered camping and lodging.
Liberty Loop Trail wetlands
Around 4PM, knowing I still had four miles and a couple of hours to go, and hiking alone, I tried listening to a few podcasts during the hike. this seemed to give an extra boost for a moderately long hiking day, helping me to forget any aches and pains for a bit, and I enjoyed it so much I’ll probably put on audio again in late afternoons when I am hiking alone. After three weeks on The Trail I can still appreciate the beauty around me… but not all day.
Pochuck Boardwalk
I arrive at Pochuck to see a large Scout troop section-hiking, from Ohio. Also there in the shelter were Semper Fidelis and another, and Miles showed up, explaining no good camping at Union City. Mac showed up later, and a few guys were tenting or hammocking that I do not know yet.
June 28, Thursday, Pochuck Shelter to Vernon hostel at St. Thomas Episcopal Church, 6.5
Miles and I left the shelter around 6:30AM, for an easy half-day of hiking and rest&relaxation at the hostel. Not so flat as yesterday, and more rocks, but quite bearable for three and a half hours. Miles hikes faster, so we often are out of sight of each other, but I take fewer breaks, so it all evens out.
We pass through a swamp with long boardwalk, another protected refuge. A couple Miles talks with advises him to try the farm stand on the highway to Vernon, and “Companion” concurs. Around 9:30AM we go into the large farm store to support the local economy, and I acquire fresh peaches, cherries, and an ice cream cone.
Heaven Hill Farm
We are just about to start the two mile highway walk into town when a van pulls up to let out a hiker. It is the hostel van. “Would you like a ride into town?” Score!
The hostel is very nice with a computer, WIFI, free laundry, shower, refrigerator for cold drinks, and plenty of comfy chairs. But no bunks and only two cots, so we sleep on the carpet. A television with dvds and cable is provided, and some hikers are glued to the tube, and little conversation takes place near the seductive device– a very different vibe from the social atmosphere at the last hostel.
Hostel at St. Thomas Episcopal Church, Vernon
As other hikers trickle in I notice a lot more older hikers, and hikers who started at Harpers Ferry. Miles and DW are in twenties; older hikers include myself, Dakota Dan, Semper Fidelis, probably Irish Charm and Falling Turtle, … Later Progress and Joiner come to the hostel, increasing the youth percentage. I notice the younger crowd going into the area further from the television– which gives me some hope for the future.
Miles and I go out to a nearby Italian restaurant, and I ask about his grad school work. As an undergrad at a liberal arts college he studied psychology. For grad program he is concentrating in social work, in a program heavy in practical experience. Previously, he had spent two years working for a bicycle touring company. (He biked the Bikecentennial Trail and likely passed by my grandparents house.) He envisions doing social work with teenagers, possibly in challenging neighborhoods. he worked with the Americorps program as a volunteer coordinator. Section hiking the AT adds to his skill set, along with the cycle touring experience, that could be applied to youth programs. Cool.
June 29, Friday, Vernon hostel to Wildcat Shelter NY, 17.1
Through various delays I was not able to get to the trail-head until 9AM. I did get a ride while walking the 2.7 miles back from town to Trail, and I did stop at Heaven Hill stand for another cone to support the local economy.
Immediately hit with a long climb over boulders up Wawayanda Mountain. Already oppressively hot. At Wawayama Shelter, met a trail angel who was stocking fresh water and cookies in the bear-box. His son just finished the Hundred Mile Wilderness in Maine, and he felt like paying forward his gratitude by being an angel for the shelter. His brother had thru-hiked in 1988 (same year I did the southern half of AT), and tells of a terrible heat spell around New York that year. The angel is considering doing the thru-hike next year, and is about my age.
Down, around twisting and winding with no ridges and no views, but some final rocks. Like New Jersey was resisting our leaving.
Starting walking a lot on rock, not split into boulders, but smooth flows or glacial layers as outcroppings. Reach the New Jersey-New York line, which is a big lift. Very little water on an extremely hot day on The Trail, and I could wish for more water being carried just-in-case. New York, please have more water sources.
The Trail leads around a veritable maze of rock outcroppings. I see no long distance hikers all day until almost the end of the day. The path goes up a very high rock that gives a view of waterfront properties below, though most of the time the rock offers no view and I am scrambling because of some sadistic trail designer.
My foot slips on a ledge and I bang down on the left knee hard. They can likely hear my yell at the next shelter. A shallow cut right on the knee cap is tricky to bandage. I make butterfly closures out of duct tape, and wrap everything with a tissue paper pad to absorb any blood. Tied with an ace bandage, then knee brace over everything. (Should have carried super glue, often used by emergency rooms to close cuts.)
Now at 4PM I know the shelter and water are at least two hours, maybe more because of all the technical climbing that slows my pace. I’ve encountered no trail landmarks for a while so actual distance is fuzzy. I come upon a blue blaze trail marker (showing a side trail) with a note for me by Miles. He has changed his plans and is going down the blue blaze trail to a lake to cool off. Now I know where I am, and I know someone is thinking about me and keeping me informed.
Miles leaves a note
My spirits boosted, I hike a little faster, knowing that water and yummy treats are a known distance away. G-Bird told me back at 501 Shelter not to miss Bellvale Creamery on a road just before Wildcat Shelter, so I stop for much-appreciated water and a cone. Two cones in one day! I meet two long-distance hikers at the outside picnic table that I saw at the hostel but didn’t get a chance to speak with at the time. Irish Charm and Falling Turtle met thru-hiking last year, and are hiking again this year with some complications like skipping Pennsylvania. He finishes his pint of cherry vanilla ice cream while talking of doing PCT next year.
Bellvale Farms
Falling Turtle and Irish Charm
Refreshed and with enough water for the night, I cruise another hour listening to podcasts. Before now I couldn’t listen because of so much technical climbing, and even now I am lead over a last rock climb before finding the shelter.
The Scouts from Ohio doing a Hundred Miler we met at previous shelter are here. Everyone tents because it is too hot and buggy for shelter. Miles, Progress, and Joiner are already there, and we share conversation, and Neosporin, over dinner.
June 9, Saturday, Tumbling Run Shelters to Quarry Gap Shelter, 11.5
Keeping to a short hiking day to ease leg pain.
Massaged my leg with lotion for a few minutes, and set off around 7AM with a slow deliberate pace, never greater than 2 miles/hour, with emphasis on low impact, low impulse force. After a while I realize on big steps I tend to land on the right foot unconsciously, to protect previous injury to my left knee, which is curiously not complaining.
Because of the early start and a light breeze and no clouds, and plenty of shade, the temp was so very fine. Brought a smile to my face just walking by myself. At a time like this, minor problems like a bum leg seem possible to overcome.
First parts were gentle uphill and level. Then some boulder fields, which I took slow. Long steady gentle downhill to Caledonia State Park. Swimming pool has a water slide, though swimwear is required. This was the first day of the year that the snack bar is open! Nokey and Sprinkles were ordering when I arrive. I got a hamburger and chocolate ice cream cone, and they fill my water bottle with ice and water for free. They even started charging some thru-hikers electronics. Enjoyed a real rest-room, then back for another ice cream and ice water. Joss arrives, and later Papa Rose. I see kids playing in the stream, so I go in for a quick dip.
Snack bar at Caledonia State Park
Swimming pool, Caledonia
Instead of staying in Caledonia State Park, Calculator had suggested we go to the next shelter, so I carefully climb a few miles, and pass a couple of women who say I am about to enter the “Taj Majal of shelters”.
Decoration at Quarry Gap Shelter
Quarry Gap Shelter has potted flowers decorating the site, a bench, skylight over the roofed dining area, a babbling brook next to a spring, clotheslines, bear box, and more. The caretaker Jim Stauch, Innkeeper, greeted me and described how he cared for the shelter and nearby trails on behalf of PATC. Papa Rose arrives and chats, and Innkeeper eventually leaves. A few tenters arrive, then Calculator comes and says several thru-hikers are expected to arrive.
Calculator at Quarry Gap Shelter
Several 20-something fast thru-hikers trickle in. Golden introduces herself and asks if I need a real pen (I am writing journal with my skinny ink refill.) and starts a round of questions about ultralight gear. Crash, Peppaboy, Lance, and Willie Raisin King (new trail name, might not last) joke around the table while preparing dinners, and crack everyone up with banter. (Like my nephews and niece when they get together.)
Prepping dinner at Quarry Gap
In conversation Calculator says he is responsible for 37 miles, which he patrols five days with two off.
One of the guys hides a chocolate milk in the stream and asks Golden to go look and find a prize.
Papa Rose plans to go to a hostel tomorrow near a road we will cross, then another hostel the next night near Pine Grove Furnace State Park. Later I realize this might cost me a day of hiking, but my leg complains enough I better take a healing.day.
Papa Rose has 8 grandkids, will finish final section, Katahdin, in August.
The AT Guide by Awol seems to be what most thru-hikers use now, not the AT Companion. The Guide shows elevation graphically. (Later entries will refer to the AT Guide as Awol, as thru-hikers do in conversation.)
June 10, Sunday, Quarry Gap Shelter to Tom’s Run Shelter, 14.3
I leave Quarry Gap Shelter early as I can without waking people too much, then along an easy rolling or level trail most of the day. Lined almost all day with mountain laurel in bloom. No views, few rocks or steep downhill to speak of until the last couple of hours. In the cool early morning air I was not able to make out distant traffic noise or aircraft noise for the first two hours, just birds calling.
Passed by Golden on a brief steep downhill section, which she jogs down with a huge pack. Also passed by other young thru-hikers, of course. Still being careful with leg. Even on an easy level grade where it is oh so tempting to stretch out and turn up the speed.
At one point Golden and Wildflower stop and make a sign on the ground proclaiming this the “real” Appalachian Trail Halfway Point, according to Awol, not the halfway maker they will see later (and I will not quite get to today). Pictures are taken: Golden, Willie, Lance, Wildflower, Peppaboy, but not Crash, who has not caught up yet. I wait for the festivities to complete so they will not need to pass me. Crash passes me later, and is still resting at Tom’s Run Shelter when I arrive. This crowd of thru-hikers will perhaps take the Half-Gallon Challenge and then waddle off to Ironmasters Mansion Hostel. While it might be fun to join them, I decide to stay at the neglected shelter for quiet time, then wander around Pine Grove State Park tomorrow, hopefully see the AT Museum, then spend one night at the hostel.
Wildflower and Golden mark unofficial half-way point
Wildflower and Golden at unofficial half-way point
Shawna and Terry arrive later and pitch a tent.
But I sense the reader grows weary of these details of who met whom when on the Trail. So let us divert to the odd feelings I encounter where my AT information is incorrect and out of date in so many odd places. All the shelters I have visited this trip have “bear poles” or some other system of hanging food. Hikers are not longer shut into shelters in the Smokies with chain link doors to keep bears out. Bears can now wander into the shelters but do not mess with humans because the food is not there. Some hiker made a comment about all the small towns in Georgia the Trail passes through. I remember Georgia as being pretty remote, but perhaps some businesses sensed an opportunity and moved close the the Trail. It is like a role playing game, and half my experience points are no good, and I do not know which points. My strategy has been to select knowledgeable kind people and be willing to ask plenty of dumb questions, so thank you Peter Pan, Calculator, and Papa Rose, and there will be others.
I hesitate to draw too many broad comparisons between the AT then and now, because now is only a few days. I was chatting with a day hiker and observed I hadn’t seen a pump filter during this trip, then an hour later I notice that Shawn and Terry might be using a pump filter.
June 11, Monday, Tom’s Run Shelter to James Fry Shelter, 10.9
The Noodleheads stop by, the first people I’ve seen on the trail where I’m certain they are ultralight backpacking. Seem real nice, though walking so fast I may never see them again.
A short easy walk down from Tom’s Run Shelter to Pine Grove Furnace State Park, with a small grocery and nearby hostel. The grocery has the “Half-Gallon Challenge”, where thru-hikers try to eat a half gallon of ice cream in one sitting. Typical times for thru-hikers who had come just ahead of me was 31 minutes, and many took the challenge, in celebration for completing the “official” half-way point on the Trail. The Pine Grove General Store has a large shady front porch, and although not open until 9AM, they had AC plugs for charging phones, which is a good thing. The Ironmasters Mansion Hostel did not open until 5PM (the Companion said 4PM) so I would explore the park, take in the nearby AT Museum, rest, and relax.The thru-hiker group from yesterday came down from the hostel. I mentioned to Golden how I had seen her float down a steep rocky trail with huge pack, and asked if she had done cross country. She smiled yes and said, “Downhill is my super power”. Lance, Willie, and others depart up the Trail.
Ironmasters Mansion
Lake at Pine Grove Furnace State Park
Official half-way marker
Someone comes by and says, “Hi, I’m Tubesocks.” I remember being asked if I had met Tubesocks yet, and here he is. Picture a 300 pound man, around 35, heavily tattooed on legs (and stomach, but that is a story in itself), lugging a really huge pack with a hammock visible– not a camping hammock, but one you would by to set up in the yard. Now picture this as a perfectly friendly voluble guy, willing to sit down and talk with you all day about anything and everything– and reality seems to warp around him just a bit. He is a grad student at some university in Pennsylvania, and conceived the idea of going on the Trail this summer collection stories, for a communications major. He only can hike three to five miles a day right now, but is dropping poundage and learning skills.
Tubesocks, Terry, Shawna, and Papa Rose, Pine Grove General Store porch
Papa Rose comes by, slack-packing, and says he has decided to keep slack-packing more today and skip the hostel. I give him my e-mail and ask him to send a photo of his climb to Katahdin, which he plans to do in August to complete his 2000. The (pair of section hikers) stroll in, also plan on staying at the hostel. Terry (dad) and Shawna (daughter) got inspired to start section hiking after she read “A Walk in the Woods” and got him to read it also. “Let’s do that!”
Another thru-hiker comes by, Steamer, also planning to hostel. He took a couple of weeks off at Harpers Ferry when he discovered his body was a mess. “The trail can kick your butt.” Steamer looks just like “John Locke” from “Lost”.
Earlier another hiker starting from Harpers Ferry this year to complete his AT hike started last year, will thereby complete his Triple Crown, since he already did the CDT and PCT. Tall, and long legged, his pack appeared ultra-light.
Tubesocks notices a partially erased tattoo on Terry’s lower leg. Turns out it used to have his wife’s (Shawna’s mom) name on it– before they divorced. Tubesocks talks about a friend he trades tatts for photo/website/miscellaneous services, and says that koi tattoo are very often used to cover an old tattoo– presumably because of its bold lines and colors. I burst out in amazed laughter. “That’s the great thing about the trail”, I exclaim. “All this knowledge you would never have been exposed to in normal life.” Tubesocks could go into detail about a great many thru-hikers, which is a lesson to me: You do not have to keep pace with anybody if you can put yourself out there and share deeply during that moment of passing.
Tubesock’s tummy tatt
Appalachian Trail Museum
Iron Furnace at Pine Grove Furnace State Park
I discover that the local hostel does not have laundry facility, so go on to the next shelter.
June 12, Wednesday James Fry Shelter to Alec Kennedy Shelter, 8.1
Last night I asked Steamer, “What about your rain hear? Have you ever seen any hiker on the AT with an umbrella?”
He scowls like there’s an unpleasant taste in his mouth. “Two. (pause) One wouldn’t listen to anyone; had to go his own way. (pause) Generally I just take a rain day for an all day rain.”
This morning sky is threatening, but hasn’t started rain yet. Getting all the way to Boiling Springs gets me to grocery store that might, just might, have ace bandages, possible relief for knee. I wore an ace bandage every day for 1988 AT trip, and seemed to help. The town might also have a hotel with laundry. No such amenities for a week now. About twenty miles away, high for my injured condition, but possible if I walk slowly and carefully. This terrain is some of the gentlest on the AT, passing through farm fields… once you get down the mountain.
Steamer and Poet are in tents, so I am alone in the shelter. Able to quietly leave by 6AM, eating my Logan bread breakfast while hiking.
After a bit drizzling begins, and I pull out my umbrella. Still another shelter, with some rocks I seem to remember, then easy down to Boiling Springs. The rain comes down harder, my boots start to look slightly damp on the outside. First the toe guard, then the front suede stripes, then the next suede stripes, progressing backwards. I remember Steamer pointing out the shoes cost two days of wet feet when soaked; I assume because of the extra cushioning. He speaks from experience as he still wears his original Moabs from when he started the Trail. Wet feet, and partially wet shorts at the edges where umbrella does not always extend. I hit the rocks on the run before Alec Kennedy Shelter, and discover a maze, where the trail playfully threads its way zig-zagged through rocks, huge boulder outcroppings on an exposed ridge. Not so playful now. A cross-breeze as I hit the exposed area make umbrellas not possible, even if you did not need both hands for trekking poles. Insane to go back, insane to go forward, worse to stay put. Water resistant wind shirt goes on, then rain mittens to keep hands from freezing. Vibram soles on Moabs perform superbly, clinging to soaked limestone with uncanny tenacity. Finally through the maze, and a long several miles down to the shelter while thoroughly soaked. Luckily no one is in the shelter to witness my stupidity. As I quaff multiple hot chocolates and an extra hot dinner, I vow to heed thru-hikers’ advice attentively, and definitely take rain days when all-day-rains are forecast.
Couple of hours later Papa Rose strolls in from the rain like it was nothing, has a quick unheated lunch snack, and plunges back into the maelstrom. “Wanna finish this section and see family!” Then Mad Hat and a young local section hiker named Terry arrive. They hiked even further in the downpour. Mad Hat says, “I love hiking in rain; get some of my best mileage days.”
Later I learn Steamer hiked on into Boiling Springs that same day. So I hear.
June 13, Wednesday, Alec Kennedy Shelter to Darlington Shelter, 18.2
Easy 3 or 4 miles from Alec Kennedy down to Boiling Springs PA. Mad Hat and I get an early start for a funny reason: Terry lights up a cigarette while still inside his sleeping bag, at 4:20AM, then falls back to sleep. I’m not mad in the slightest, for I have another anecdote and know another eccentric character. (Wait until Coco reads about this.) I am truly surprised at the percentage of 20-something thru-hikers that light up a fag first thing when pulling into a shelter for the evening. How can they still perform as well as they do? Why?
Pennsylvania farmland
Down to a lovely bucolic town, with centerpiece a lake with unlikely degree of transparency, with fish, ducks, and even a swan. An ATC office is already open, and a welcoming staff person points me to the AC outlet. My philosophy is, if you’re waiting or resting, you might as well be charging. Mad Hat goes in search of breakfast. The post office no longer opens at 8, so I hike a mile out to a supermarket in search of: 2 ace bandages, watch battery, mole foam, and spare pen. They market only has one ace bandage and no watch battery. (Small town people mush really appreciate Amazon.) On way back stop into a convenience store and find a single ace bandage on the shelf. Score! Find mile foam at fisherman’s outfitters near ATC office, but no runners shorts, alas. Get mail box and take back to office to organize.
Lake at Boiling Springs
A mom and two little girls, flanked by an even smaller brothers, comes to drop off some fresh grapes for hikers. The girls are too shy to get near us, and designate Mom as their agent. A “trail angel” is someone who bestows a kindness on hikers. This mom is teaching her little girls to be angels at an early age, and I testify the grapes tasted the sweeter for it.
Boiling Springs
Meat and Aeolus (spelling?)(formerly Austrian but now South Carolinian) are other hikers getting ready. I wrap my shin and knee with high hopes, then call Coco on her 18th birthday.
Finally get ready for a long 15 mile hike on very level farmlands and “hedgerows” (really tree-field boundaries) with no water source until the shelter… and of course soggy feet. Fields of corn and clover. Silos, paths winding through mulberry trees ripe with fruit, some kind of cherry tree with dark fruit, wild strawberries, and nearby traffic noise all day from turnpike and/or other freeways.
At one place Aeolus taking a break and invites me to join him. He sees the trouble I am having with my leg and kindly offers detailed advice and mini lesson in biomechanics, based on his experience after breaking both ankles and studying properties of shoes very closely. While unwrapping my two bandages I am shaken to discover a swollen ankle. Were the wrappings too tight? More tendonitis? Will probably require hiking down to nearest town and staying there until I have answers.
Hmmm
Lightning bugs frolic outside the shelter. Why indulge in depressing thoughts when lightning bugs are about?
June 14, Thursday, Darlington Shelter to The Doyle, 11.4
In Darlington Shelter for the night with me was Mad Hat and Just John. Aeolus and Meat tented. All were planning to spend a night in The Doyle, a hotel dedicated to serving hikers. From Calculator I got the impression that if you are thru-hiking and haven’t done The Doyle, you have really missed what the AT was about.
After a week on the Trail, my injuries, probably tendonitis, threaten the entire enterprise. The Doyle is super-inexpensive, hostel rates, so I plan on at least two nights in town healing, and have my beloved “Base Support” overnight equipment replacements.
Downtown Duncannon PA
Six hour hike down to town, with the typical large elevation change, but after five hours I had not lost any elevation. And now the trail is getting rocky. I am last into town but I made it. Steamer is found at the bar in The Doyle, also stayed two nights. But first about town: Duncannon is a huge contrast with Boiling Springs, run-down wood buildings instead of stately field-stone, railroad line blocking access to waterfront, working class town, once beaten down, trying to pick itself up and reclaim downtown buildings. The Doyle is over 100 year old, one of the original Anhauser-Busch hotels. Lots of bars and pubs on main street.
The Doyle, Duncannon
Vicki and Pat at The Doyle
The Doyle… well for normal people you might hesitate to stay there. Looking around the inside, you definitely wouldn’t stay there. But to a hiker, a chance at a shower and soft bed and chance to relax with fellow hikers, well you are willing to overlook a crumbling old structure, communal bathrooms, and no sign of anything to code anywhere. To sign-in I walk into the bar, see hikers with beers, know I’m in the right place. Vicki greets me and signs me in, Pat is in back handling cooking. Up to my fourth floor room by stairs, find the shower, wait in the common area until it’s unoccupied, then shower. Next a choice of food or laundry. I go down and ask Vicki if the duct tape on the coin washing machine in the bathroom means what I think. But a laundry is just two blocks down; I passed it coming in. Yet I see someone at the bar being served a real cheeseburger, and I gotta get one. Then laundry while charging, rest, talk to “Base Support” who is really helpful on medical issues.
The Doyle
Later for dinner I see Mad Hat at an Italian joint, Zeiderelli’s, and join him. I had a cheese steak sandwich. He was trying to finish a “small” sausage pizza. I helped a little. Mad Hat was a conductor for the Union-Pacific Railroad, retired at sixty, now hiking in early sixties. His was a union job, now part of the teamsters. He is also a volunteer firefighter, which I later learn he started in his twenties.
With his beard and Minnesota accent, I have to ask him if he knows “The Red Green Show”, and that he looks and sounds something like Red Green, which he takes in good humor. The beard is just for the hike, so I might not recognize him afterwards.
Sleep comes readily. My cell phone recharges, and so do I.
June 15, Friday, The Doyle, Duncannon PA, zero
Waking in an actual bed indoors, clean and with clean clothes, was a delightful experience after a week on The Trail. Even better is spending time in an official “trail town” that makes an effort to cater to hikers. I stumbled across the road to Goodies, and found Mat Hat finishing the French toast special. I join him and had the same. Hat was on his way up The Trail. Also said farewell to Aeolus and Just John. John had repaired his boot (yes, boot, not shoe) with shoe goo he found at the local hardware store. His foot was also giving him trouble, but he was hiking on.
Later saw Sprinkles and Nokey at The Doyle. Sprinkles had an appointment with a doctor about her ankle. They had a possible side trip with thirteen members of his family in a cottage on the outer banks of North Carolina shore. His family would be driving through town today, so they would have to decide soon which path to take. Later she tells me the doctor diagnosed bursitis of the ankle, gave some recommendations, knowing she wouldn’t be stopping hiking but given methods of reducing pain and damage. For anti-inflammatory meds the doctor recommended Aleve, perhaps because of fewer doses(?).
Juan Solo is the new trail name of an eighteen year old thru-hiker with southern Californian valley accent who I met at Tea Horse Inn hostel at Harpers Ferry. He is with Wall-E as they are ordering The Doyle’s chicken strips in buffalo sauce. In walk Terry and Shawna! They were ending their section hike in Duncannon. This is their first AT section, though they hiked a lot on other trails. Their car was only a couple of blocks away to take them back to civilization, but the have to stop at this hiking institution known as The Doyle. They order; I get a salmon burger. Nokey and Sprinkles let me know they are going to North Carolina. After repast I give Terry and Shawna a tour of the hotel, with particular attention to eccentric details I have discovered.
Terry and Shawna end their hike at The Doyle
Tour of The Doyle rooms
I bid Terry and Shawna a hearty farewell. Will be strange not seeing them turn up unexpectedly. Maybe they will do some day hikes just to mess with my mind.
The trail runner Coach comes into the Doyle, polishes off a pork chop and baked potato feast, and gives some advice on the upcoming trail and treatment of my leg. He also says Rausch Shelter is closed but alternatives exist. Later, looking at the Companion, I do not see good options. No tenting at the Rausch is allowed, and other shelters are already too far away from it for the slow stately ramp-up I had planned.
Suddenly no buddies around. But I have some equipment to modify, an item to order, and leg to ice. And at 4PM I take the free shuttle to the large-ish supermarket, along a busy road too dangerous for hikers to make by foot; get some extra food since I plan to ramp mileage up slowly this week. I am joined on grocery outing by DW (which stands for “Dog Whisperer”, since he was bitten by a dog).
The rest of Pennsylvania is reputed to be seriously rocky, real training for New Hampshire and Maine. If I can just make it through “Rocksylvania”…
June 16, Saturday, The Doyle to Peter’s Mountain Shelter, 11.2
Two days of rest&relaxation at The Doyle were good for the body, but white blazes are calling! After treating myself to a last cooked breakfast at Goodies across the street (open at 6AM), grab my pack and bid a fond farewell to Duncannon, a real trail town. Starting at 6:45AM, the town was quiet with a few joggers out. My plan is to try a slow majestic ramp of mileage until Port Clinton, while getting used to inserts. (Nokey said the Superfeet may hurt the first two weeks, but you may notice your knees, ankles, and feet lining up straighter over time.) Also plan continuing analgesics and cat meds (oral steroids), knee brace, and cold packs at the end of the day.
The first day is pretty easy, climbing up to a ridge and enjoying views on both sides of the valleys below. I fear my modest cell camera will not be able to capture the essence. Sure, the trail is rocky, and I am prepared and expecting rocks for the rest of Pennsylvania.
Soon I am passed by DW, but chance to catch up and chat while he stops for lunch snack. Youngish, he was a journalist in Indiana but expects never to work for a newspaper again. He is currently blogging for a small press website, and blogging his trip by sending entries to his girlfriend from Louisville. He expects to leave Indiana, possibly for a location with more outdoor recreational choices.
Just John comes by and greets. I thought he was already way down the trail. I explained my slow ramp, so he might know I won’t bump into him on trail for a few days. Although The Trail continues to surprise…
My hike is already finished at 3PM at Peter’s Mountain Shelter, a mere eleven miles. Here is a vast twenty-person structure with a loft. I am joined by a father and teenage daughter and schnauzer, though eventually they retire to a tent. I think they are bothered by the prospect of mice scurrying around at night, even though I explain that my snoring usually drives them away. The family is section hiking the AT in Pennsylvania in small chunks.
Being a weekend, I see many day hikers and expect lots of company in the shelter, but I might be the only one.
The distance to the next shelter, Rausch, is 17.8 miles, which strikes me as excessively distant. Rausch is closed, with signs posted warning northbounders. We will all have to tent in primitive campsites at least one night.
I am currently at the site of the original AT Shelter, built by Shaffer, later removed and put in the AT Museum, which I already viewed. When he originally build the shelter, it was without a floor. Later named in his honor. A floor was later added, and he asked that his name be taken off the shelter, as he felt that wood floors would attract vermin. Three hundred stone steps down to the spring, not a trip I wish to repeat.
Very late, after my journal entry, Whistles makes her entrance. Here is only the second young woman thru-hiker I have seen walking long distances alone, after Lady Forward. She normally travels with Crush, Peppaboy, and that extensive group, but is doing this part of Pennsylvania north-to-south after attending a friend’s wedding in Philly and soon another in Virginia. Then back with friends on trail. We end up talking of many things: her volunteer work for rape crisis and teen sex education, getting EMT certification. I ask the impertinent and borderline-forbidden question about plans after the AT. “Well, ‘Dad’ …”, she responds with a sarcastic tone, which cracks me up. Well played.
June 17, Sunday, Peter’s Mountain Shelter to Rausch Shelter, 18.0
Whistles and I bid fond farewells and hopes of future trail meeting. Dear reader, you must understand how uncannily often that happens on The Trail. Four miles down, I remember that last evening Whistles observed that she accidentally left her fuel bottle in the previous shelter, and that would have been a good time for me to offer hot water– and me with extra fuel. I am so dense… well, a guy and a geek.
Today will be a walk in solitude. I continue to travel along the narrow ridge, trees blocking all but glimpses of farms and towns on either side, then down a thousand feet to a road, back up a thousand feet. Weather stays cool and clear all day, but not enough breeze to blow away gnats intent on getting in eyes and ears for their own nefarious ends.
Gradually the trail leaves a ridge and follows a meandering stream, with ground more level though still pretty high up. A few miles further than planned, I hike all the way to Rausch Shelter to take advantage of the cold spring water used for cold packs to help my leg at the end of the day.
The shelter is in the middle of reconstruction and has no roof. The shelter platform is still extant, so I could sleep cowboy style. On the other hand, my latest forecast is for rain tomorrow, so I practice setting up my tent-tarp for first time on this trip. Hmmm, it doesn’t look like it offers much protection in a blowing downpour. Well, I may find out soon.
Rausch Shelter being reconstructed
My leg and feet seem to be getting better a little. I should still keep mileage moderate for a few days. Knock on wood.
First use of tent-tarp, near Rausch Shelter
Quiet day. Saw almost no thru-hikers the entire time. I may be traveling in a bubble.
June 18, Monday, Rausch Shelter to 501 Shelter, 17.5
One advantage of tenting by myself is being able to break camp with disturbing anyone. Out by 6AM– huzzah! On the way out, notice the lone southbounder’s tent was joined by another. The sky looks gray, very likely rain later. Pretty smooth trail without rocks for a while, then ridge walking again, down to roads, including underpass for I-81, the only man-made structure to shelter from rain until Penn’s Shelter hours from the highway. Shortly after, a light rain starts, and I find the umbrella can be twined through my pack straps and slightly rest on my head, leaving both hands free for trekking poles on the copious rocks. Slowly, inexorably, the shoes go from damp to wet to soaking, and I stop to wring out socks about five times during the day.
Swatara Creek footbridge
The rain starts around 9:30AM and only lasts an hour or two– not the afternoon rains I am used to at home– but extra grass magically appears to capture and release moisture onto my shoes. Hmmm, should I try low-cut water resistant gaiters? Anyway I already proved that wet feet will not harm me permanently, so on to William Penn Shelter by 1PM. One mystery guest sleeping in the shelter, so I sit at the picnic table, eat and wring socks a last time.
William Penn Shelter
Descending down to a highway, I discover trail magic! A trail angel has left a cooler of iced sodas and bags of Doritos and assorted snacks for hikers. The angel, Zig Zag, includes a book to sign like a shelter journal.
Trail magic by Zig Zag
Finally reach 501 Shelter around 3:30PM. This shelter is completely enclosed, with a polygonal sun-roof, twelve bunks, and “solar shower” completely covered by tree cover so the solar gain is negligible.
501 Shelter
The people inside are unfamiliar to me, until Peppaboy enters a few minutes later. Peppaboy laughs a lot, so I can tell he is in a shelter before I see anyone there. He thru-hiked the AT four years ago by flip-flopping. Twenty-eight, he saved up, quit his job, and is now thru-hiking again where he ends at Katahdin.
Big Sky and Diesel are a couple at the shelter. She never hiked or back-packed before starting the AT. She is now getting really bored with hiking each day.
Sitting at the central table, I ask Peppaboy and G-Bird about future stops I should not miss, since they both hiked the northern sections of the AT recently. They pull out Awols, and Big Sky and Diesel join in and listen. I make note of several hostels, snacking opportunities, and other locations to definitely visit.
Zig Zag, the trail angel, comes in and takes a bunk above me. Later she becomes ill, but thinks it is food poisoning since her husband is having the same symptoms. Slingshot, Kelly, and a kid seem to be hiking together. G-Bird is section hiking from Harpers Ferry to Maine, starting on June 9, so she is faster than me on average. She already did the same section last year! Age twenty-two, from Sweden, majoring in international business, she only has the summers to hike, and does not want to hike southern AT in heat of summer. She has hiked the Camino de Santiago three times! Her plan upon graduating in a year or two is to thru-hike the Pacific Crest Trail. On her AT trip last year her trail name was Trauma. Got giardia and only did not treat water one time. Banged a clavicle and had several other mishaps.
G-Bird hikes with -12C sleeping bag!
Zig Zag tried to thru-hike last year, got 70% complete, but had to quit because of medical complications. She had hypo thyroid that switched to hyper (or vice versa) and lost a lot of weight. Now she is giving back by being a trail angel. Which is a lesson on how to gracefully switch from a bitter defeat to constructive public service. Her living example makes her a trail angel in more ways than she knows. Thus endeth the parable of Zig Zag.
June 19, Tuesday, 501 Shelter to Eagle’s Nest Shelter, 15.1
The huge central skylight at 501 Shelter acts as on acoustic amplifier for rain drops, making a small drizzle seen a torrent. People seem slow to rise, so I do not start moving until 6:45AM, and on the trail by 7:30AM.
Skylight at 501
A wet feet day, and early light rain insures a wet-foot day tomorrow. Luckily, the day starts with lots of rocks! You read that right. Rocks mean less grass, and grass means wetter feet, so Pennsylvania rocks have toughened me up to appreciate their advantages.
Dewdrops on spider web
The path is more or less level, with few view opportunities, no people in sight, and a moderate fifteen mile day, so it is possible to zone out and be in autopilot mode. Later the blazes become scarce, and the fog does not light until 2PM. Light-blue blazes look rather white in the fog.
I’m on track for 3PM arrival and promise of dry feet. Diesel passes me at 2PM, and PeppaBoy and G-Bird zoom by at 2:30. I can hear them chatting back and forth down the trail– they seem to be having a good day together. Big Sky catches up, and I push my speed up a little higher than safe for my legs. She says go ahead– she didn’t want to pass.
After the arrival at Eagle’s Nest Shelter, some relationship drama ensues, and Big Sky and Diesel move on.
Eagles Nest Shelter
A father and two teen join us to dry out and tent-camp nearby. They are from Florida, section hiking the AT in order, three weeks at a time: Just Dad, Pyro, and Blazer. (I later learn this charming family has been written up in AT Journeys magazine.)
Blazer, Just Dad, Pyro, G-Bird, and PeppaBoy
June 20, Wednesday, Eagle’s Nest Shelter to Port Clinton Pavilion, 8.6
In Eagles Nest Shelter were G-Bird, a late arrival southbounder (sobo), and myself. In tents were Peppaboy and the trio Just Dad, Pyro, and Blazer.
Short day today, but long enough, and hot enough. Rocks on the steep climb down were damp even though the leaves and ground were dry. It was hot enough the rocks were “sweating”.
Down into Port Clinton, a tiny town with loud traffic and few services, though the people were friendly except for the staff at the Port Clinton Hotel, where I procured a shower and laundry. By the time I walked back to the pavilion I needed another shower, it was so hot.
Port Clinton
Big tactical error when doing laundry: forgot to bring my charger! No electricity at pavilion or anywhere else, until the kind postal clerk pointed out one free plug in the post office later.
When doing laundry, Just Dad came down, saying the kids were parked in the motel room upstairs while he does chores like laundry and replace a leaky sleeping pad. He, like I, was disappointed to find there was not a regular shuttle service to Cabela’s (outdoor superstore) as guides and trail lore would have one believe. Back at the pavilion, G-Bird was skipping the next section (superfund site) and would rejoin the AT in a couple of days, presumably synched to Peppaboy‘s hike. Her friend Book-Smart from last year’s hike rented a car and they will zero around for a couple of days. He offered rides to Cabela’s since G-Bird needed boots there. I joined up and asked if Just Dad could come. We found him in the hotel laundry room, and he got ready to come with us super-fast.
Cabela’s super-store
I had never gone to Cabela’s. Life-size animals are displayed with toy guns the kids ca use to practice shooting. Huge floorspace. Desk at front where you checked your guns. I scored a few key items, but forgot two because I did not make a list, but a good trip. The last time I was in a big-box store seems ages ago.
Kids can shoot at critters inside Cabela’s
After returning to the pavilion, G-Bird said her good-byes and pointed out we might not meet each other on The Trail again: She hikes fast. On to the post office to get food drop, mail back some items, send letters, and recharge a little. Then back to pavilion to pack food in new dry bag and sort out equipment.
Joiner and Progress, from outside DC, come by and go out in search of sustenance. Slingshot and Frenchy come by and looked at pavilion dubiously, and will likely try tenting in the park across the street.
June 21, Thursday, Port Clinton Pavilion to Allentown Shelter, 22.6
Port Clinton was perhaps not the best choice for the night. Although well-hidden by trees, the road was close-by and high with truck traffic, noisy with “jake brakes”. Close by the river, it was quite buggy. The good-hearted citizens installed a nearby street light that stays on all night. And did you know Pennsylvania is hot in the summer? So imagine me sleeping on a couple of hot benches pushed together, with a bandana tied over my eyes as sleep mask, a bug net over the head, ear plugs, sometimes flipping over the sleep pad because it is so sweaty, and often fanning the sleeping back to disperse the heat.
If only I had headed out even as late as 6PM, would have hit a spring and potential campsite, and it doesn’t get dark until 8PM. Out in the morning at 6AM, and find trail magic at the first water stop! The trail offers high ridge with some views, and a few rock fields and roadways, gratefully accepted. Keep being passed and passing Just Dad and crew. Finally reached Eckville Shelter at hot mid-day, situated a short distance down a residential street The shelter was behind a caretaker’s residence, and this well-aged hearty individualist with thick German accent was perpetually on the move with outside chores: power washing the shed, trimming bushes, painting the porch, on and on, never stopping.
Caretaker at Eckville, always busy
Eckville is known for having a solar shower, and after that hot hike (rumored to 100F) I planned to do that first thing, BUT, who do I see waiting in the shelter area? Peppaboy! Seems he had heat exhaustion that really knocked him down, and could only hike 6 or 8 miles the previous day.
The shower was refreshing, and I allowed the water to soak my day-clothes and wore them during the heat of the afternoon. Just Dad and crew arrive and seek out the tenting area, a grassy shady lot across the street. I alternate chatting with them and the crew nearer the shelter, including Peppaboy and Bobcat.
Eckville Shelter has a charging station for visitors to use without having to ask. I really appreciate that, and could even call Coco and e-mail “Base Support”, since 3G is available. I am having an equipment problem they could solve. My trekking pole tips were wearing out, and if they wear any further it would destroy the tip screw mechanism, making the poles unusable. They could send me spare tips quickly to the next post office.
This is one of the hottest days yet, and I drink double the amount of water. The plan was to start early, hike until hot, then rest until the heat breaks and hike some more. So at 4PM I start the three to four hour hike to Allentown Shelter, about the same time as Peppaboy and Bobcat. Finally arrived at 7:45PM, quickly get water and hang a bear line, and set up my tent-tarp. I planned to use it instead of shelter so I could sleep with fewer clothes on without grossing anyone out. Also joined at site by Progress and Joiner.
June 22, Friday, Allentown Shelter to Palmerton hostel, 17.7
Shower in the middle of the night. Packed tent after wiping it dry. Not out until 8AM– scandalous! Today would be a no-trekking-pole day due to tip problem mentioned earlier. Lots of huge boulder jumping where trekking poles could be handy. About the time Progress and Joiner pass me I slip once, unharmed, and try to keep up with them of a bit so they can render first aid if needed. :-) Progress has a spare pole and kindly offers, but I am in rhythm of using hands. Who carries a spare pole? Not understanding.
Progress, Bobcat, and Joiner on PA rocks
Several more boulder runs during the day, mixed with some dirt roads. I’m not too proud to hike on dirt roads, nosiree. Some trails indifferently blazed, and Pennsylvania wildlife area marker looks too much like a white blaze. Later in, I discover the white reflective marker used for power transmission line right-of-way looks remarkably like a white blaze, and spend a pleasant hour on a false trail, including the most technically challenging boulder hopping of the day, which everyone else missed. Yet I was only twenty feet from the real trail, and was not too proud to ask a local on a smoke break on some back road where to go.
Stopped shortly after mid-day for water at Bake Oven Knob Shelter. The closest spring was dry, so had to go down another several hundred feet for spring number 2. Peppaboy arrived at the shelter to rest, and brought back a few black raspberries to share after his water run. While he rested, I took off. Several miles to next shelter, and I was undecided about staying in shelter or going to free hostel hosted by town government of Palmerton.
Up high on a ridge, a thunderstorm struck, with discharges rather close by. Just had to keep walking and hope trail gets off ridge soon… which it did. Rain followed, only thirty minutes worth. First time using my rain jacket, since I sent umbrella home. Finally got to last shelter of the day, George W. Outerbridge Shelter, and was happy for the piped spring nearby. Peppaboy shows up, resting a bit, and I decide to plunge on into town and he follows soon. Everyone else we had walking around during the day had by-passed the mid-day shelter and were already in town.
As I started to get to the blue-blaze trail into town, Peppaboy catches up, and I follow him, since he had gone through town a few years ago. We (he) decide to skip following blue blazes up a steep hill, reasoning the trail must drop down to the road we are following and cross some bridge over the river we are paralleling. We walk way too far. Apparently a foot bridge with a short-cut has gate closed after 4:30PM, so we had to take the hard way.
Nice clean hostel, with laundromat and useful businesses nearby. We arrive around 6:30 or 7:00, and I quickly gather stuff for things at once: shower, start laundry, leave phone charging, get Chinese takeout (including potstickers) and eat on steps of town hall, make a run to pharmacy for sundries, back to laundry to finish up.
Doors locked and lights out at 10PM. Relaxed easy vibe among all the hikers, nearly all who I have met on trail before. Saw Saunter, who I haven’t seen in a while, and Lady Forward, who I have been a day behind for a long time. Good mix of people, easy conversation.
June 23, Saturday, Palmerton hostel to primitive camp 2 miles past Wind Gap, 22.4
When is it acceptable to start stirring in a hiker hostel? The oldest guys move earliest for old guy urgent morning business, Saunter, Croc, and then myself. I go upstairs to the empty gym to finish a trail journal entry, and when I get back a few minutes later nearly everyone is already gone. this is a problem for me, because I came into town on an unconventional route, and have no idea of correct way back to the AT. And Peppaboy seems to be sleeping in. I did get a hint from Dog Whisperer to try Third Street, so I follow that until a friendly older couple out on a porch point me further towards the correct way. Odd this route doesn’t have a physical blue blaze. I’m about to climb up to the Trail when I join Saunter and Croc. We see a blue blaze next to a white blaze, and Saunter is certain we should take it– I am less sure after yesterday’s detour. As we climb he realizes it is the old AT, closed for EPA remediation, and will join back up with the current AT at the top, but our route is in the shade and shorter than the official trail. Sure enough, at the top we meet Jerry Not Bad who started before me. Also see Lady Forward, who is walking similar pace but behind and mostly out of sight all day. The climb up the ridge of the remediation offers some of the best views of my trip. Clear vistas of old industrial sites and small towns and fields laid out for our appreciation. I seem to be hiking in a bubble the rest of the day. I have to take a break at a water spring that involves a long off-trail hike, and I assume any trailing hikers near my bubble pass me at this point.
Blue Mountain as seen from Palmerton
Old industrial sites as viewed from Blue Mountain
The placement of shelters is not so great for my situation. Leroy Smith Shelter is a 16 mile day, which would make the next day a twenty mile hike into town, so I would arrive late and not be able to enjoy town as much. Going beyond Smith to the next shelter is 29 miles, clearly too long a hike.
When I finally arrive at Leroy Smith at 5PM I look around, and decide to walk on. Perhaps I will dry camp tonight somewhere in the middle between the two shelters. My guidebook documents a friendly hotel owner just five miles down the trail who gives hikers free water and sells sodas. I buy a couple to show gratitude, get extra water from hose. Back on The Trail I begin looking for campsites north of Windy Gap. Finally settle on a spot around 7:30PM, throw a bear line, set up tent, use remaining wipes to clean off for tick inspection, and cook double hot dinners. I hiked a long day and do not want hunger pangs at 3AM, particularly inconvenient when your food bag is hanging way up in a tree. All finished by 9PM, read a little e-book, and sleep with satisfaction that I should be able to get to Delaware Water Gap by next early afternoon and have a town day.
The night was a little cooler than before, so briefly I could crawl into sleeping bag nekkid instead of staying on top of it all night.
June 24, Sunday, primitive camp 2 miles past Wind Gap to Church of the Mountain Hostel, Delaware Water Gap, 13.6
I awake and break camp at my location a couple of miles trail north of Wind Gap. Head out by 6AM, doing a fourteen mile short day, not expecting to stop much. Should be in town by 2 or 3.
Pennsylvania is not done with us as far as hiking on rocks. Bouldering, little ankle-crunching rocks, mixed with little bits of smooth trail. Gnats start buzzing early today, 9AM instead of after noon the day before.
Getting to Kirkridge Shelter seems to take a long time, though I appreciate the water faucet on a short blue blaze trail. For a lot of the day we would be taken along a ridge that was one of the least frequently blazed in my experience, and I had to re-walk a fifteen minute segment to convince myself I was really still on The Trail. Then a long descent on rocky path all the way down to town, lovely in places lined with mountain laurel, passing many dozens of locals out for a day hike, all seeming to be walking much easier than I am, especially the 4-year-old kids that just went by.
I decide to do an emergency field repair on one trekking pole to help me get down. I am noticing shin pain that has not been present for several days, and new locations for pre-blisters where my feet should now be all toughness. Anyway, a piece of old rubber trekking pole tip I find on the trail plus some molefoam and seam sealer make a half-way durable tip to give me a pole for the downhill.
Finally, finally the trail enters a parking lot and ten civilization. Oh, there is the famed ice cream shop that is located directly on The Trail! Just a little ways down is Church of the Mountain Hostel. I walk in, and no one is around at 3PM, though packs are scattered. Looking at the register I see Not Bad walked directly from Palmerton Hostel to here in one day, over thirty miles! I also notice Big Sky and Diesel are registered. I find the towel closet and enjoy a shower. One hiker, just leaving, tells me about milkshakes at the ice cream place and hot dogs and pie for $2.49 special at Village Farmer and Bakery. I go out at partake of both. Much bloating. Also walk by two tiny outfitter shops and establish they do not carry what I need.
Ice cream shoppe right on The Trail
Carbs
Back to hostel and a few hikers who tend to always be well ahead (Frodo, Pancake, …) are soon leaving. Diesel and Big Sky come in and chat, and move on, apparently to a hotel room. Peppaboy shows up. Then Lady Forward and DW. And a section hiker southbound, Mountain Ann.
Church of the Mountain hostel
Conversation in shelter, paraphrased: Sagebrush: During long hiking days I’ve been trying to envision “Appalachian Trail the Video Game” for Wii Fit. The nunchuk controllers could be trekking poles. Leaning on the balance board controls which rock you step on next. A little status window shows your water, agility, food, and so forth. Peppaboy: You know, I’ve also been imagining the AT Video Game. Like the way you think DW: [comes in from other room] I’ve been thinking about this as well. Simply hiking would be too boring. You have to have options like Grand Theft Auto. While thumbing a ride, you can car-jack and cause general mayhem.
Imagining the video game of the AT, while hiking the AT: It’s a guy thing.
The train arrives in Harpers Ferry. As I traveled from DC, watched out the window as terrain changes from tamed suburban Maryland, adding creepers, then steep hills, then river and wildness.
Historic district, Harpers Ferry
Walked to Teahorse Inn hostel, 5:45PM. A few guys lounging, but I feel the outsider with clean clothes and feet not beat up. Go down the hill for a sub, back up to shower and whatever is next. Wow, I feel awkward and uneasy. Pre-hike jitters.
Bunkhouse at Teahorse Inn
Dakota Dan, John, and an ATC volunteer, Peter Pan AT94, who stays in the hostel are in the lounge, but others are pretty quiet. A chess game starts. Through an open window I hear songbirds so different from New Mexico but similar to Haverford campus that I just visited. So loud it will take several days to keep from getting wakened, even inside. Ten double bunks for the guys, probably almost all filled up. A smaller womens bunk room, with indeterminate small number. Nicely appointed hostel as a good start for the adventure. I pumped the ATC volunteer for recent news about the trail. He hiked south-to-north twice. Says 90% of trail has changed, with more switch-backs, and less steep scrambles. Also, he caught Lyme disease while working on a trail crew, and required a second round of antibiotics after a blood test, although he did not have symptoms the second round. Laurel, hostel owner, comes up to chat with us. Teahorse Inn was a place she stayed in China, and she liked the name. Former teacher here. Moonwatcher sleeping already. Mad Hat still down at Italian restaurant. Skunk Ape on phone outside. In Florida Sasquatch is known as “Skunk Ape”, hairy biped that emits an odor. Named himself.
Long discussion on trail names with examples:
Uno.
Pat, Pat-So-Far becomes Pants-On-Fire.
Kittens (If you don’t give yourself a name someone might name you. I like kittens.)
Precious.
Broadsword carries a foam rubber sword.
Animal carries a five pound bucket of food for strength training.
Machete Mitch. Honey Badger (watch famous clip on YouTube.)
Connect-Four.
Tickle-Monster.
My bunk at Teahorse Inn
Wednesday June 6, Harpers Ferry to Rocky Run Shelter, 16.1 trail miles
Another hiker, Honey Badger, arrived at the hostel in the night, bring the total to eleven, plus one female cyclist He slept on a cot out in the lounge (since the bunk room was full). Laurel had three waffle makers (motel style) going at once, offering thick Belgian-style waffles and watermelon and bananas. With such a fine meal we were bound to accomplish great deeds today.
Breakfast at Teahorse Inn
After breakfast I said my goodbyes to Laurel. Turns out she had been running the hostel for just two years, and yes, she knew she was not on the AT Companion 2012 map yet. I will heartily recommend the spot to other hikers.
Took my pack and strolled to the historic district to wait for post office and Appalachian Trail Conservancy office to open, and quelle surprise, all the history museum buildings were open early. Particularly enthused over the industry building, with belt-driven machinery to make a rifle, lock, stock and barrel… though none was actually operating.
Got post office package with no issues, though I did forget minor items in the box like an envelope to send missives to my beloved. At the ATC Peter Pan took my photo to put in the notebook of all registered hikers. I was section hiker 109, just after Mad Hat thru-hiker 367. Had two photo postcards to send to family, and got alcohol fuel at office. Showed Peter Pan my photo in front of the ATC office from twenty four years ago. They keep notebook/albums going far back, so he pulled 1988 to see if I had a polaroid made, and apparently I had not. (Since I was no longer a thru-huker when I reached the office back then, I probably did not see a need to register. Or when I took my photo the office might have been closed.)
ATC 2012 photo
Departed, passing once more through the historic/tourist section of Harpers Ferry. Do I get an early lunch snack on my way out? Naawww, time to hike! Crossed the B&O (Baltimore and Ohio) trestle. Hiked for a couple of miles along the remains of the B&O towpath, which of course is flat without rocks. Oh, if only the rest of Maryland is this easy (foreshadowing).
Climbed up Southern Mountain, which had Civil War significance, like most of the area. Had to stop at Ed Garvey Shelter and climb down a long path for water. Mostly ate lunch while hiking. By the time I got to Compton Gap Shelter, my scheduled stop, it was only 4PM, and I feared idle hands, so determined to try another five miles to Rocky Run Shelter. Almost immediately I found out why it had gotten that name, ans the Trail filled with softball-to-basketball-size rocks spaced together too close to avoid. My feet were getting hammered, and I even felt a twinge in the knee. Adjusted my stride somehow, and the knee stopped bothering me. Finally the last mile was down a steep incline, still filled with bruising rocks. Easily passed by last hiker from night before.
Wearily pulled into Rocky Run Shelter, joined by Honey Badger and another long distance hiker named John, 50-ish, no trail name, plus a cat! The black cat sneaked off with Honey Badger’s cheddar cheese, and he had to chase it down and get back the rather sizable quantity. Cat was a pest with begging, and threatened to steal all our dinners.
Cat ninja thief
Dinner number one on the Trail was curry, beans, and rice, and was the best meal I have fixed in ages. There is something about a hot meal while backpacking that justifies the extra gear and time. Both shelter mates turn in early and are asleep by 8:30. I try a cold sponge bath which feels amazingly good to boost my spirits, so may do that regularly when weather is not bad.
First trail dinner
Pinch test at start of trip, in imitation of 1988 photo
Now at 9PM, really too dark to write, so I will try sleeping on my tiny tiny mattress pad.
June 7, Thursday, Rocky Run Shelter to Raven Rock Shelter, 20.6
Woke up early, started stirring around 6AM, decided to no-cook and eat breakfast on the Trail. No bad effects from yesterday’s long-ish day, though I know for the the second day is where muscle pain hits.
The dried Logan bread was just barely able to be bitten into chunks without dunking– but just barely. Would be pretty embarrassing if I had to get off the Trail with a broken tooth. Though tough, the Logans were tasty and filling, and kept me going throughout the morning.
At the next highway crossing I tried to send a text to “Base Support”. I could see the battery drain as the poor cell phone transceiver struggled to send text to a distant cell tower. The phone did not think the text was sent, but a later reply confirmed it made it.
Near the Washington Monument (not the famous one, the older one in Maryland) I stopped at a picnic pavilion to top off the cell phone battery for a few minutes while taking advantage of a nice restroom. My rest stops this trip will tend to be near AC power.
Washington Monument
John (Just John) caught up and passed me, but was going to stop a bit at Pine Knob Shelter. I had enough water still, so keep going. At Pogo Memorial Campsite I met an Appalachian Trail Land Ranger picking up trash, who observed the campsite was a mess and needed a resign. John must have passed by while I was getting water at a spring at Pogo. Ate lunch while hiking with no stopping to put in some miles. Some part of the Trail easy going, but other sections were hella-rocky. By afternoon thighs and shins were complaining, forcing a 3 mile/hour pace down to 2 miles/hour. Around 2PM near Ensign Cowal Shelter. It threatened rain. Stopping at two would be rather early, so I pulled into the shelter to make cocoa and snacks and have a real rest. Eventually the rains abated, so I proceed on. Around 5PM passed by Honey Badger. By 5:45PM rain started, big heavy drops with thunder, too much to ignore. Got a chance to try out my umbrella, which I had been carrying in a front pocket for the last couple of hours because of threatening clouds. The bumbershoot worked a treat– keeping my dry while easy to carry, and no sweating or claustrophobic feeling from drops on a hood.
Finally around 6PM, moving slowly, I pulled into Shelter at Raven Rock, up high on a hill/mountain. Just John and Honey Badger were there, along with a couple of two teenage girls, and a guy from Connecticut (who sounds like LH). He happened to tell me they no longer lock people into shelters at Smoky Mountains. (My info on southern part of AT is now out of date.)
At shelter was a strange pulley system for hanging food bags, first I have seen of that type. Late, and dark, 9PM before dinner, hanging food bag, cleanup, and journal. Time to figure out sleep system again.
June 8, Friday, Raven Rock Shelter to Tumbling Run Shelter PA, 13.2
Waited to stir until 6AM because of the crowd. Out by 6:30, no cook, and shortly encountered a huge steep downhill boulder field. As Just John zoomed past, he commented that anyone doing the Four State Challenge (hiking VA, West VA, MD, and PA in one day) would encounter that rock field late in the day, exhausted, with the sun going down.
Further down, more downhill, my right shin and left big toe start hurting. Worried about the shin. Usually muscles loosen up after an hour and do not bother you until the next time your rest and start up again. This seemed to mostly hurt going downhill, and the AT has plenty of uphill. I had already planned to do a short day.
Pen Mar County Park was closed, including restrooms. (But another hiker thought they were open about the same time or shortly after.) Nice view, relaxing park, just opens late.
View from Pen Mar County Park
Mason Dixon Line. Foolish me, thinking it was between Virginia and Maryland.
Mason Dixon
Found the road to hike 1.2 miles for Box 1, mostly through protected wetlands along a fast highway with guard-rails the whole way. Found the post office easily, and the clerk said I was the only one with a package waiting. She also handed me a box of snacks, toiletries, and assorted knick-knacks the local Girl Scout Troop put together to assist hikers. I was genuinely touched. Mailed trip journal letter and postcards. Hot dog, first 3G reception, so I found a chair in front of a nearby business and caught up on e-mail. Spied a convenience store and got a snack, and a couple of hikers who just finished their section offered me a ride back to the trail-head. Sweet! This sort of thing happens all the time along the Trail. Saw Papa Rose at trail-head.
Stopped at Deer Lick Shelters for a little leg rest. When I am ready to start, Honey Badger comes around from inside the shelter and greets me as he zooms up the Trail. A late starter, but he might to 3.5 to 4 miles/hour.
Finished at 4PM at Tumbling Run Shelter, the first day as per schedule at 13.2 miles. Papa John was already there, and a couple of thru-hikers who moved on. Also a Ridge-Runner was there, Calculator AT2011, whose job is to patrol a section of Trail and teach “leave no trace”. Nice guy, volunteers at the ATC office on Thursdays.
Papa Rose at Tumbling Run Shelter
Four young thru-hikers arrive, including Lady Forward from Wisconsin,
Sweet, 3G at shelter. No civilization sights or sounds. I look up “shin splints” on Wikipedia. Hypochondriac much? Did not like learning that stress fractures have similar symptoms– that would be a trail ender. Of course, treatment for all kinds of athletic injuries involve huge amounts of rest– not terribly practical for a long distance hiker.
Massaged my legs a long time with lotion and olive oil, which seemed to help. Hard to understand how massage will relieve a stress fracture, so hoping for a less serious type of injury.
Will do a short day tomorrow, massage beforehand, and see how that goes.
Lady Forward and Joss come back to the table and crack everyone up.
