Category: Trip Journal

PCT 2018 Day 19, May 11, Friday.

Start mile 429.2, under a tall pine

End mile 454.5, Agua Dulce, then shuttle to Hiker Heaven.

Miles walked: 25.3

Starting at elevation 5.5k, a mist has appeared below.

Descending into the fog at Messenger Flats campground, an important water stop, the air is much cooler, and the sun shaded to gentleness.

Below the cloud, the day remains cool and shaded, compared to fierce heat of previous days.

Just past the highway to the Acton KOA, the terrain changes suddenly to sandstone with red tints, low enough altitude for grasses to reappear, and though washed out in photos by cloud cover, much resembling the hills near Socorro NM.

Past a tunnel under a freeway is Velasquez Rocks, a canyon with rock formations much like San Lorenzo Canyon on the Grand Enchantment Trail.

Down to the town of Agua Dulce, I start walking the mile or so to Hiker Heaven, when the truck shuttle picks me up.

I am given the tour. The Saufleys have for several years turned over their spacious yard and garage and guest house over to the use of hikers. Helpers organize food drop packages and do hiker laundry in the garage. An outdoor shower has a signup list. Wifi is available, and a computer. A shuttle truck runs to town every hour and a half or so each day, announced by megaphone.

Some other features make the experience unique. Chickens freely roam among the tents, and will come inside if you do not zip your door.

Dogs also roam. Horses are just pass the tents.

I go into town and get supplies to hike to the next town, then go to a Mexican restaurant and find other hikers at a table and they graciously allow me to join. Codex, Miguel, and Tiana.

Tent neighbors include Fish Tank, Little John, and Tic Tac.

PCT 2018 Day 18, May 10, Thursday.

Start mile 400

End mile 429.2, under a tall pine

Miles walked: 29.2

Here is a cone from Coulter Pine. The path is white sandy soil, like crushed limestone. The ecozone keeps switching, starting as tall mixed conifer, going to low oak, to high desert shrubs, to old burn, to pines spaced far apart, then randomly alternating each mile. From the small spring near where I camped, the next sure water source is 18 miles away at a faucet at Mill Creek Fire Station, and a line of hikers wait their turn to fill up. Up high on ridges, now around 5.5k elevation, one can make out how the coastal range shifts directions.

PCT 2018 Day 17, May 9, Wednesday.

Start mile 375.8, campsite near Lamel Spring

End mile 400

Miles walked: 24.2

Steep switchbacks lead to the summit of Mount Baden Powell, 9399 feet, named for the founder of the Boy Scouts.

The route stays near the top of ridge and saddle for several miles, rewarding with views. Going down a trail I meet at least 40 people coming the other way, a group from Korea Town in Los Angeles out for a day hike. One person tells me that someone further back in line will give me cucumbers, and, yes, someone gives me a bag even though I try to take just one, then another person later down the line also tries to give me cukes but I show my bag.

These baby cukes do taste like they were picked this morning. I am guessing that members of the club knew they would meet PCT hikers and decided to bring gifts. Later I see the group again taking a picnic after their hike.

Four other hikers were talking with them, Tortoise, First Bird, Irish, and GPSy (pronounced gypsy). Mile 390 to mile 394 of the trail is closed to protect an endangered species, the Mountain Yellow-Legged Frog. A couple of routes around the closure are available. My choice involved a 2 mile road-walk. At Buckhorn Campground, on the closure route, I meet the group of four hikers again, taking an afternoon break. I sit and chat a while, then move on. Later I see a couple of them again, and we are walking near each other, but they somehow disappeared at one point.

Steep switchbacks late in the day are draining my energy, so the 400 point marked in pine cones seems like a good place to stop.

Finished audiobook Captain Blood, by Rafael Sabatini