June 30, Saturday, Wildcat Shelter to William Brien Memorial Shelter, 19.6
Left Wildcat Shelter around 6:30AM and walked with Miles, who likes to start early. I had to make a pit stop and end up walking with Progress and Joiner for the morning. More technical climbing over huge rock outcroppings, with lots of trail ups and downs, with no ridgelines to speak of. Would hate to be attempting in rain or post-rain with wet rocks! We met a couple of thru-hikers, Sunshine and Rocky, who said their hiking bubble was already in the White Mountains. Progress started in April, joined later by Joiner. Golden, Peppaboy, and that crowd started mid-March by comparison. We talked about meeting again at William Brien Memorial Shelter after visiting Lake Tiorati for cooling, swimming, water, vending machine, and rumors of ice cream sandwiches.
Rocks
My left knee is hurting quite a bit on downhill. The cut is staying closed, but I must have bashed something inside the joint. The pain is very much in location and degree like my left-knee-troubles on southern AT trip. No problems with that knee before the bash.
It is HOT, but not quite as bad as previous day. I double amount of water consumed and carried, and take advantage of occasional trail magic where an angel leaves water on this dry section of trail.
In early afternoon I am with Progress and Joiner when we meet the Lemon Squeezer, a huge rock outcropping with a narrow passage underneath, in places easier if you take off your pack to scramble through.
Joiner at Lemon Squeezer
Squeeeeeeeeze
Finally get to Fingerboard Shelter, no water, around 3:30PM, and I am pretty dry by then. We climb down to the road for Tiorati Lake, eventually joined by Miles, then walk along the road searching for “official” swimming area with restrooms,, cold showers, vending machines. Rumors of ice cream, so I hoped for concession stand. Finally got to destination and I drink two liters of water and two 12-ounce sodas before going down to “beach” to dip toes. With cut knee no lake swimming for me, but water feels good on the toesies. No concession stand but ice cream vending machine. Everyone in my party is treated to an ice cream from the machine. We meet Sunshine and Rocky as we are leaving.
We try taking a road shortcut but cannot find necessary blue-blaze trail We have to back-track a mile and take another road we know crosses the AT. By this time I am lagging well behind. My knee and feet claim it has been a long day. We find sweet white blazes and climb up to William Brien Memorial Shelter, a stone structure with massive thick walls. Right next to it is the big cliff we need to climb in the morning. All in our party tent because of heat. Rocky and Sunshine come by but move on. A group of young reprobates are camping nearby, and Miles yogis some beer in exchange for flammable liquid. The group is actually pretty quiet at night. I am tired, but really enjoyed the easy conversation among friends all during the day.
William Brien Memorial Shelter
July 1, Sunday, William Brien Memorial Shelter to primitive camp one mile past Bear Mountain Bridge, 11.1
Out of William Brien Memorial Shelter campsites by 6:30AM with Progress, Joiner, and Miles.Miles and I climb to the summit of Black Mountain, the first of three mountains on our morning schedule. Miles points out traces of the New York skyline; one glass building is catching the sun just right, barely visible over a rise and through the haze.
A glint of the NYC skyline seen from Mombasha High Point
When I descend down to the road (Palisades Interstate Parkway) I see a sign: “N Y City 34 (Miles)”. At the next brook I take water instead of waiting for a spring as in other states. In the morning we meet Sunshine and Rocky and walk together most of the way to Bear Mountain summit, with conversation ranging from cycling, half-marathons, hiking equipment. The pair had camped on top of Black Mountain to see NYC skyline at night. Since they are using hammocks and few trees are at the summit, this presented a challenge.
We encounter a large number of fitted steps leading to the summit, and marvel at the effort involved.
Fitted rock steps up Bear Mountain
On up West Mountain and down, then up to the summit of Bear Mountain, where we find vending machines but NO WATER… unless you want to pay three bucks for a small bottle of Dasani. Many cyclists are at the summit, exercising the vending machines and also searching for water. At the summit is a tower commemorating the history of the park, which we explore.
Perkins Memorial Tower at summit of Bear Mountain
Descending down to Bear Mountain Park wee meet more fitted steps, a wide groomed trail, many day hikers. I’m not making this up: I can small charcoal lighter fluid wafting from the picnickers below.
Finally we get down to the part. First order of business is water, so Miles, Rocky, Sunshine and I trek over to distant restrooms and partake. Slightly brownish, but drinkable. I soak hat, bandana, and shirt to ward off heat. Miles is taking a bus from Bear Mountain Lodge to visit parents in Long Island, so I bid him a warm farewell. Sunshine and Rocky are working on some issues– I hope to see them up the Trail. At the zoo I meet Progress and Joiner lunching in the cool shade of the trees. I only go as far as Hemlock Springs Campsite and backtrack a couple of miles in the morning for post office drop. They are going on to Graymoor Spiritual Life Center a few miles further. I hope to see them up The Trail again in a few days.
Miles departs at Bear Mountain State Park
Bear Mountain Lodge
Path along Hessian Lake, Bear Mountain State Park
Bear den, altitude 120 feet, lowest point on the AT
I walk into Fort Montgomery in heat of mid-day and get a few refreshments. ATM is out of order. Next two ATMs are inside businesses closed for Sunday. Finally I locate a Mobile Mart and get cash– just in case. Back to part and find an AC plug to charge while I journal. In walks the Scout troop I’ve met several times, celebrating the end of their Hundred Miler. Finally, just before the gates close at 4:30, I cross the Bear Mountain Bridge and head up to campsite and prep for tomorrow.
Bear Mountain Bridge
July 2, Monday, primitive camp one mile beyond Bear Mountain Bridge to primitive camp past Dennytown Road, 13.5
I was camping at a primitive site with water a mile up The Trail after the turn-off to Fort Montgomery. I headed down around 6:30 with only pack and foodbag and mesh bags. I tanked up on a half liter of water, saving two liters of water for later. I left the tent up like it was occupied.
Hudson River viewed from Bear Mountain Bridge
The post office opens at 8AM, so I arrive at 7:30 and plug phone into hidden outlet I had previously located. Got package as soon as office opens and proceed to repack some items.
The term for driving around looking for an open wifi connection is war-driving. I was “war-hiking”, and managed to upload some blog posts written the previous night. Connection was slow, but I did manage to post some content. On way back I need a restroom real bad, so asked a ranger in Bear Mountain State Park for permission even though back entrance not officially open until 10:30AM. By the time I get back to camp and packed up, it was already 11:30, and the best hours for hiking were gone. Hard to get into a good long hike rhythm. Finally started clicking around 2PM. Then came across a trail-adjacent deli mart, so I got a cold soda and looked in vain for bandages. For some reason both feet were developing blisters in unusual places that had not acted up before. Used molefoam as best I could. A group of thru-hikers were hanging out at a picnic table at the deli. Flash, who recommend several good places to eat previously at Delaware Water Gap, just as he was leaving hostel as I entered. Also present were hikers new to me: Coffee-to-Go, Foster, and Einstein. I asked if they had seen Sunshine and Rocky, and they said the pair had spent from 9 to 12 at the picnic table. I continued on after apparently breaking a tooth on a tortilla. Strange, right?
I hike on, and rhythm gets better or trail gets easier. When Flash catches up I ask him where he is from, since accent sounds like some of my relatives. He is from Winchester, Kentucky. The three others hikers catch up and pass me, but then take a break and I keep moving. This pass and catch up happens several times in the afternoon.
I was hoping to hike on to Clarence Fahnestock State Park and arrive late, but the group points out that one mile off the trail is two extra miles hiked. They mention camping areas should be nearby when trail crosses Dennytown Road. When I reach that spot around 6:30PM, I know I cannot hike much further. I am beat.
Almost Awesome and Possum (The Ape Team) show up and pepper me with questions about ultralight gear. They are a married couple; she is always bubbly and lively; he is quieter but tells great stories. They move on down to camp a few miles in.
Exhausted, I follow Coffee and crowd as they find a nearby campsite and ask to camp with them. Coffee-to-Go has a ZPacks tent like mine, but next larger size with an extended beak. Foster plays a mean blues harmonica and tells tales of following a band and encounters with “hippy chicks”. He also bursts out singing a country tune I’ve never heard before. he says he bought a pack of Indians (cigarettes) at last deli and already finished it: two cigs/mile?
Coffee-to-Go has Zpacks tent-tarp with extended beak option
Coffee is quite careful to make me feel welcome, part of the group. Flash is traveling with them, but seems an odd fit.
Somehow they found a campsite with no rocks or roots. When Coffee and I look for rocks as a weight to throw a bear line, we have trouble finding one! My bed is unusually soft as a result, and I have a good sleep.
July 3, Tuesday, primitive camp past Dennytown Road to Morgan Stewart Shelter, 19.7
I head out around 6:30AM, and find Rocky and Sunshine up The Trail about two hundred feet way camping. They give a sunny wave as I pass by.
An AT blaze being born
Go by Clarence Fahnestock State Park, looking at the lake and thinking of the beach. Maybe they have a place to charge, but it is early, the concession stand not open, and early is the best time to hike. Maybe I can charge at the deli later, if they are nice.
Canopus Lake,Clarence Fahnestock State Park
Hike. Hike some more.
Stop for short lunch break and water at RPH (Ralph’s Peak Hikers) Cabin , which is fully enclosed with chairs and niceties. Used the hand pump but SteriPEN water just in case. A thru-hiker arrives, Tamir, with his sister section-hiking with him.
RPH Cabin
Around 2PM I reach Highway 52 and hike down to deli. Almost Awesome and Possum are at the picnic table, and tell me deli people are really nice, and the pizza place next door less so. I support the local economy with a dirty rice dish and snacks, and the clerk tells me I can charge at the outlet outside next to a faucet. Now I’m staying a while!
The Ape Team are from Knoxville Tennessee, and she went to University of Tennessee. Delightful conversation, rich in stories. I am energized just being i their presence. But not energized enough to move yet. They go up; Tamir and sister come down.
Eventually, around 4PM, I head up to Morgan Stewart Shelter. Chance of rain. So Ape Team and Milk-Jug are in shelter, and I join them.
Possum launches into story about Noodleheads in Shenandoahs, finding a luggage cart along the Trail, and Rigatoni is determined to use it. I was laughing so hard thought I would strain something.
Good honest twenty mile walk. How about tomorrow?
July 4, Wednesday, Morgan Stewart Shelter to Ten Mile River Shelter CT, 20.6
Left Morgan Stewart Shelter around 6:30AM, soon passed by the Ape Team (Almost Awesome and Possum) and soon by everyone except Tamir and his sister. Soon I meet Rocky, Sunshine, Flash, and another couple. There were slack-packing. They went to the Fourth of July Party advertised by flyers around the trail. They said the couple hosting the party were really nice, helping them to slack-pack today, and were probably just down at the road if I wanted to join the party. I said I’d just go ahead and hike on, grumbling a little to myself since I avoided any of the parties just so I could put in some miles.
The trail is relatively flat and non-technical, so I do put in some miles. Around noon or 1PM I get to the Appalachian Train Station, a tiny platform with no charging opportunity. I look at the nearby nursery that has a good reputation with hikers and might let me charge. But it is Fourth of July, so probably closed.
Lonely train station
As I am crossing the road to head up The Trail, somebody up the road waves me over with trekking poles as signals. It is Possum with Almost Awesome! They are standing next to a pizza truck and introduce me to Anthony, who actually has a wood-fired oven on his truck that gets up to 900 degrees F. I ask how many slices they ordered– Possum got two. Awesome started with one and then had to order another. So I get two with hot Italian sausage. Their ride arrives– this section of trail is kicking Possum’s posterior. I take one last photo and bid farewell, and concentrate on my ‘za.
Possum and Almost Awesome at Anthony’s pizza truck
Who drives up? Guess? “Sagebrush!”, says G-Bird. She, Peppaboy, Willie from Vermont, and another guy just got picked up a few days ahead on the trail, and staying with guy’s family tonight. “It’s an Independence Day Miracle!” I exclaim. They stopped here for pizza, so I tell them what I learned, and then fondest farewells, since one of us needs to hike for a living.
G-Bird, Peppaboy, and Willie from Vermont, July 4 surprise
Energized from two chance meetings with two fine groups of trail-buddies, I hike easily in the heat of the day with sweat pouring off me. At a road crossing I meet Jason, a thru-hiker who started in early March. Also at the road is trail magic: ice water (with ice still floating in container), cookies, and a first aid kit. And Jason, who is just back from visiting New York City, offers me a Snickers.
Trail magic, with cookies
We meet again at Wiley Shelter when I stop for water, and decide we are both headed to Ten Mile River Shelter. I get to the shelter at 6PM, plenty of time to get clothes rinsed and clean myself up before dinner.
Jason comes shortly afterwards. Earlier he had said he wast not sure of the cultural reference of why he was named Jason, and though it might be connected with the horror movie franchise. I ask if perhaps the reference is to Jason Alexander, actor on Seinfeld. They have the same general look and even similar speech mannerisms. he graciously agrees that might be a better explanation.
We talk most of the evening, often about trail people we know in common, but also about himself. He works for Liquor Control Board in Pittsburgh, and saved vacation days to do this adventure. He moved to Key West in his youth for a few weeks, until a best friend stabbed him. His father also thru-hiked the trail many years ago.
We fall asleep to the sound of fireworks and thunder. Happy 4th everyone.
June 25, Monday, Delaware Water Gap PA to primitive camp 0.5 miles before Crater Lake, 19.4
The post office didn’t open until 8:30, so I figured I might be one of the last to leave this comfortable hostel, but several decided to go to the nearby outfitters, which opens at 10– definitely not hiker-friendly hours. A brief thunderstorm and downpour at 7:30– what’s with these storms at odd hours? At the nearby post office got my food AND trekking pole tips, mailed back some minor items. Went back and repackaged food, and tried an equipment experiment. Ever since Harpers Ferry I have been carrying my cell phone in a front pocket, because I grab it frequently to take photos and refer to the e-book version of “Companion”. A shorts pocket is less than optimal for hiking, because the significant weight is moving back and forth with your leg movement, wasting energy and feeling awkward. I had hoped a nearby outfitter might have a case that strapped on a pack strap; alas they did not. Just in case I bought a cheapo camera case at Rite-Aid in Palmerton. So I set out to modify it to fasten on my pack strap, which already had d-rings and straps sewn on for this purpose.
Delaware River Bridge
Finally out by 10AM. Sadly the ice cream shop was closed, or I would have grabbed one last chocolate cone on my way out of Pennsylvania. I met several people on this stretch of trail. Phoenix Rising tried to thru-hike a couple of years ago but had to quit because of Lyme, and wants to complete this year. She is traveling with Angry Bird, on her first section hike. I saw Dog Whisperer (Not DW, this is a woman) who is hiking with two dogs. She stopped to chat when a ranger wanted to meet her dogs. Also met Jaws, who hikes with Big Sky during the day and then Big Sky and Diesel meet back up in the evening. Jaws is working on his master’s degree in aero-astro in Florida, and is using thru-hikers for his human factors design thesis. He has to be finished with The Trail in late August when school resumes.
After a climb we followed a level high ridge with views of water on either side, with lots of high grassland and comfortable forest. After an early social mix, I ended up walking in solitude and beauty most of the day. Peppaboy passed me around the lovely Sunfish Pond. No sign of our other companions from the hostel.
Sunfish Pond
I get to Mohican Outdoor Center at 3PM. I’m scheduled to stop here, but the Trail is really nice today with cooling breezes and no gnats. I take advantage of their snack shop and down a couple of sodas and bag of Doritos, and snag wifi to catch up on e-mail and fill water. I walk for a few more hours, then see a sign near Crater Lake “No camping next 3.5 miles”, realize I cannot get past that zone in time, and backtrack one-half mile to a primitive campsite. Phoenix and Angry Bird mentioned they were only going as far as Mohican. They seem fun, and I may have missed a chance to know them better. Jaws might have stopped there too, and I would like to talk to him more. The Trail beckons, but so do new friends.
Mohican Outdoor Center
June 26, Tuesday, primitive camp 0.5 miles before Crater Lake to Mashipacong Shelter, 17.8
The temperature dropped dramatically overnight. Being only dressed in camp clothes and mummy bag, it was a little hard to stay warm for once. (But now I will be prepared: optionally wearing daytime clothes, double socks, rain jacket, and wind jacket.) Broke camp at 6AM, wondering if I could attempt a twenty-plus day to get to High Point Shelter, one long hiking day from my mail-drop and next hostel in Vernon, New Jersey.
Scored my first known tick around 9:30AM, when one of the large black non-Lyme ones bit me on the shin. He did not have a good hold yet, so I just lightly brushed him off. We are encountering a lot of tall grass that might have been trimmed back in other states. Will need to be extra paranoid during nightly tick checks.
Culver Fire Tower
Got to first water at Brinks Road Shelter around 10AM. The first couple of hours hiking I had to wear the wind shirt, which would normally be too hot to hike in after a few minutes. I am encountering more rocks than expected for this section, but manage to set a pretty fast pace.
In early afternoon my feet begin hurting to a considerable degree, and no other body part is complaining, apart for an unusual degree of tiredness for this time of day.
For this next bit of trail shelters are spaced closely, which is a help. At Gren Anderson Shelter around 2PM I see a note in the journal that Peppaboy had passed by that morning. I did get passed by Frodo, but do not see much sign of my regular thru-hiker bubble during the day.
At 4PM I am really flagging, going much less than 2 miles/hour. I meet a couple of ladies with a huge white dog, and that cheers me up when I stop to take its picture.
Doggie
Finally around 5PM I get to Mashipacong Shelter and know I have to stop for the night. Two other hikers are there. One older gentleman, Smiling Jack, also started at Harpers, but he calculates he is going 50% of my pace. Miles (not really a trail name, but most hikers assume it is, so will be italicized) is three days into a section hike from Maryland to New Hampshire.
During tick check, found another tick hiding in sock, laying in wait for the next time I put it on. Showed it to Miles.
Tomorrow will listen to my body and not push distance. We are not far from a state park that offers free showers and a snack bar. I will gladly rest there, then try to get to a shelter close to town, to maximize my town day.
PS: Strange commotion last night: Miles was tossing and turning through the night, then at one point jumped up and grabbed a flashlight. Later I learn he felt a tick crawling around, and speared it with a ballpoint pen.
PPS: Smiling Jack showed me the evaporative cooling rig for his insulin. Heavy with the water. He said on his AT attempt last year the doctor told him he could stop monitoring after a certain number of days– guessing that by that time he should be considered fit and healthy. But that turned out to cause problems.
June 27, Wednesday, Mashipacong Shelter to Pochuck Shelter, 19.6
Miles and I pass each other off-and-on during the morning, arriving at the same time at Highpoint State Park. The nice woman at park headquarters offered us free sodas, a benefit of “Friends of High Point State Park. We go down to the beach and snack bar area, and for a beautiful immaculately maintained park with water and beach it seemed odd so few people were there yet, but it was mid-week. I waded in the cold clear water, which seemed to benefit my feet quite nicely. While charging (of course), supported the local economy to the tune of an Italian ice, pizza slice, small Doritos, and soda. Smiling Jack came down, and we all chilled until noon.
High Point State Park
Smiling Jack
After an initial rocky climb back to the high point of New Jersey, the Trail led through pastoral fields, old stone property boundary markers, patches of forest, and finally, around 5PM, through a wetlands preserve. Lots of flat trail, few rocks, and I was careful all day not to push speed except for some brief conversations with Miles before he zoomed on.
view of High Point marker
Followed a sign “to well water” which brought me the the “Jim Murray Property”, a lovely little spot that offers a private shelter for hikers. Lots of cool maps on the walls. Met Mac there, who I expect to see later down The Trail.
Jim Murray cabin
My goal was Pochuck Mountain Shelter, about a twenty mile day. Normally after the rough day yesterday that would be unrealistic, yet in this instance I knew about the flat smooth terrain. Smiling Jack and Miles were headed a few miles short of that– Unionville New York, which offered camping and lodging.
Liberty Loop Trail wetlands
Around 4PM, knowing I still had four miles and a couple of hours to go, and hiking alone, I tried listening to a few podcasts during the hike. this seemed to give an extra boost for a moderately long hiking day, helping me to forget any aches and pains for a bit, and I enjoyed it so much I’ll probably put on audio again in late afternoons when I am hiking alone. After three weeks on The Trail I can still appreciate the beauty around me… but not all day.
Pochuck Boardwalk
I arrive at Pochuck to see a large Scout troop section-hiking, from Ohio. Also there in the shelter were Semper Fidelis and another, and Miles showed up, explaining no good camping at Union City. Mac showed up later, and a few guys were tenting or hammocking that I do not know yet.
June 28, Thursday, Pochuck Shelter to Vernon hostel at St. Thomas Episcopal Church, 6.5
Miles and I left the shelter around 6:30AM, for an easy half-day of hiking and rest&relaxation at the hostel. Not so flat as yesterday, and more rocks, but quite bearable for three and a half hours. Miles hikes faster, so we often are out of sight of each other, but I take fewer breaks, so it all evens out.
We pass through a swamp with long boardwalk, another protected refuge. A couple Miles talks with advises him to try the farm stand on the highway to Vernon, and “Companion” concurs. Around 9:30AM we go into the large farm store to support the local economy, and I acquire fresh peaches, cherries, and an ice cream cone.
Heaven Hill Farm
We are just about to start the two mile highway walk into town when a van pulls up to let out a hiker. It is the hostel van. “Would you like a ride into town?” Score!
The hostel is very nice with a computer, WIFI, free laundry, shower, refrigerator for cold drinks, and plenty of comfy chairs. But no bunks and only two cots, so we sleep on the carpet. A television with dvds and cable is provided, and some hikers are glued to the tube, and little conversation takes place near the seductive device– a very different vibe from the social atmosphere at the last hostel.
Hostel at St. Thomas Episcopal Church, Vernon
As other hikers trickle in I notice a lot more older hikers, and hikers who started at Harpers Ferry. Miles and DW are in twenties; older hikers include myself, Dakota Dan, Semper Fidelis, probably Irish Charm and Falling Turtle, … Later Progress and Joiner come to the hostel, increasing the youth percentage. I notice the younger crowd going into the area further from the television– which gives me some hope for the future.
Miles and I go out to a nearby Italian restaurant, and I ask about his grad school work. As an undergrad at a liberal arts college he studied psychology. For grad program he is concentrating in social work, in a program heavy in practical experience. Previously, he had spent two years working for a bicycle touring company. (He biked the Bikecentennial Trail and likely passed by my grandparents house.) He envisions doing social work with teenagers, possibly in challenging neighborhoods. he worked with the Americorps program as a volunteer coordinator. Section hiking the AT adds to his skill set, along with the cycle touring experience, that could be applied to youth programs. Cool.
June 29, Friday, Vernon hostel to Wildcat Shelter NY, 17.1
Through various delays I was not able to get to the trail-head until 9AM. I did get a ride while walking the 2.7 miles back from town to Trail, and I did stop at Heaven Hill stand for another cone to support the local economy.
Immediately hit with a long climb over boulders up Wawayanda Mountain. Already oppressively hot. At Wawayama Shelter, met a trail angel who was stocking fresh water and cookies in the bear-box. His son just finished the Hundred Mile Wilderness in Maine, and he felt like paying forward his gratitude by being an angel for the shelter. His brother had thru-hiked in 1988 (same year I did the southern half of AT), and tells of a terrible heat spell around New York that year. The angel is considering doing the thru-hike next year, and is about my age.
Down, around twisting and winding with no ridges and no views, but some final rocks. Like New Jersey was resisting our leaving.
Starting walking a lot on rock, not split into boulders, but smooth flows or glacial layers as outcroppings. Reach the New Jersey-New York line, which is a big lift. Very little water on an extremely hot day on The Trail, and I could wish for more water being carried just-in-case. New York, please have more water sources.
The Trail leads around a veritable maze of rock outcroppings. I see no long distance hikers all day until almost the end of the day. The path goes up a very high rock that gives a view of waterfront properties below, though most of the time the rock offers no view and I am scrambling because of some sadistic trail designer.
My foot slips on a ledge and I bang down on the left knee hard. They can likely hear my yell at the next shelter. A shallow cut right on the knee cap is tricky to bandage. I make butterfly closures out of duct tape, and wrap everything with a tissue paper pad to absorb any blood. Tied with an ace bandage, then knee brace over everything. (Should have carried super glue, often used by emergency rooms to close cuts.)
Now at 4PM I know the shelter and water are at least two hours, maybe more because of all the technical climbing that slows my pace. I’ve encountered no trail landmarks for a while so actual distance is fuzzy. I come upon a blue blaze trail marker (showing a side trail) with a note for me by Miles. He has changed his plans and is going down the blue blaze trail to a lake to cool off. Now I know where I am, and I know someone is thinking about me and keeping me informed.
Miles leaves a note
My spirits boosted, I hike a little faster, knowing that water and yummy treats are a known distance away. G-Bird told me back at 501 Shelter not to miss Bellvale Creamery on a road just before Wildcat Shelter, so I stop for much-appreciated water and a cone. Two cones in one day! I meet two long-distance hikers at the outside picnic table that I saw at the hostel but didn’t get a chance to speak with at the time. Irish Charm and Falling Turtle met thru-hiking last year, and are hiking again this year with some complications like skipping Pennsylvania. He finishes his pint of cherry vanilla ice cream while talking of doing PCT next year.
Bellvale Farms
Falling Turtle and Irish Charm
Refreshed and with enough water for the night, I cruise another hour listening to podcasts. Before now I couldn’t listen because of so much technical climbing, and even now I am lead over a last rock climb before finding the shelter.
The Scouts from Ohio doing a Hundred Miler we met at previous shelter are here. Everyone tents because it is too hot and buggy for shelter. Miles, Progress, and Joiner are already there, and we share conversation, and Neosporin, over dinner.
June 9, Saturday, Tumbling Run Shelters to Quarry Gap Shelter, 11.5
Keeping to a short hiking day to ease leg pain.
Massaged my leg with lotion for a few minutes, and set off around 7AM with a slow deliberate pace, never greater than 2 miles/hour, with emphasis on low impact, low impulse force. After a while I realize on big steps I tend to land on the right foot unconsciously, to protect previous injury to my left knee, which is curiously not complaining.
Because of the early start and a light breeze and no clouds, and plenty of shade, the temp was so very fine. Brought a smile to my face just walking by myself. At a time like this, minor problems like a bum leg seem possible to overcome.
First parts were gentle uphill and level. Then some boulder fields, which I took slow. Long steady gentle downhill to Caledonia State Park. Swimming pool has a water slide, though swimwear is required. This was the first day of the year that the snack bar is open! Nokey and Sprinkles were ordering when I arrive. I got a hamburger and chocolate ice cream cone, and they fill my water bottle with ice and water for free. They even started charging some thru-hikers electronics. Enjoyed a real rest-room, then back for another ice cream and ice water. Joss arrives, and later Papa Rose. I see kids playing in the stream, so I go in for a quick dip.
Snack bar at Caledonia State Park
Swimming pool, Caledonia
Instead of staying in Caledonia State Park, Calculator had suggested we go to the next shelter, so I carefully climb a few miles, and pass a couple of women who say I am about to enter the “Taj Majal of shelters”.
Decoration at Quarry Gap Shelter
Quarry Gap Shelter has potted flowers decorating the site, a bench, skylight over the roofed dining area, a babbling brook next to a spring, clotheslines, bear box, and more. The caretaker Jim Stauch, Innkeeper, greeted me and described how he cared for the shelter and nearby trails on behalf of PATC. Papa Rose arrives and chats, and Innkeeper eventually leaves. A few tenters arrive, then Calculator comes and says several thru-hikers are expected to arrive.
Calculator at Quarry Gap Shelter
Several 20-something fast thru-hikers trickle in. Golden introduces herself and asks if I need a real pen (I am writing journal with my skinny ink refill.) and starts a round of questions about ultralight gear. Crash, Peppaboy, Lance, and Willie Raisin King (new trail name, might not last) joke around the table while preparing dinners, and crack everyone up with banter. (Like my nephews and niece when they get together.)
Prepping dinner at Quarry Gap
In conversation Calculator says he is responsible for 37 miles, which he patrols five days with two off.
One of the guys hides a chocolate milk in the stream and asks Golden to go look and find a prize.
Papa Rose plans to go to a hostel tomorrow near a road we will cross, then another hostel the next night near Pine Grove Furnace State Park. Later I realize this might cost me a day of hiking, but my leg complains enough I better take a healing.day.
Papa Rose has 8 grandkids, will finish final section, Katahdin, in August.
The AT Guide by Awol seems to be what most thru-hikers use now, not the AT Companion. The Guide shows elevation graphically. (Later entries will refer to the AT Guide as Awol, as thru-hikers do in conversation.)
June 10, Sunday, Quarry Gap Shelter to Tom’s Run Shelter, 14.3
I leave Quarry Gap Shelter early as I can without waking people too much, then along an easy rolling or level trail most of the day. Lined almost all day with mountain laurel in bloom. No views, few rocks or steep downhill to speak of until the last couple of hours. In the cool early morning air I was not able to make out distant traffic noise or aircraft noise for the first two hours, just birds calling.
Passed by Golden on a brief steep downhill section, which she jogs down with a huge pack. Also passed by other young thru-hikers, of course. Still being careful with leg. Even on an easy level grade where it is oh so tempting to stretch out and turn up the speed.
At one point Golden and Wildflower stop and make a sign on the ground proclaiming this the “real” Appalachian Trail Halfway Point, according to Awol, not the halfway maker they will see later (and I will not quite get to today). Pictures are taken: Golden, Willie, Lance, Wildflower, Peppaboy, but not Crash, who has not caught up yet. I wait for the festivities to complete so they will not need to pass me. Crash passes me later, and is still resting at Tom’s Run Shelter when I arrive. This crowd of thru-hikers will perhaps take the Half-Gallon Challenge and then waddle off to Ironmasters Mansion Hostel. While it might be fun to join them, I decide to stay at the neglected shelter for quiet time, then wander around Pine Grove State Park tomorrow, hopefully see the AT Museum, then spend one night at the hostel.
Wildflower and Golden mark unofficial half-way point
Wildflower and Golden at unofficial half-way point
Shawna and Terry arrive later and pitch a tent.
But I sense the reader grows weary of these details of who met whom when on the Trail. So let us divert to the odd feelings I encounter where my AT information is incorrect and out of date in so many odd places. All the shelters I have visited this trip have “bear poles” or some other system of hanging food. Hikers are not longer shut into shelters in the Smokies with chain link doors to keep bears out. Bears can now wander into the shelters but do not mess with humans because the food is not there. Some hiker made a comment about all the small towns in Georgia the Trail passes through. I remember Georgia as being pretty remote, but perhaps some businesses sensed an opportunity and moved close the the Trail. It is like a role playing game, and half my experience points are no good, and I do not know which points. My strategy has been to select knowledgeable kind people and be willing to ask plenty of dumb questions, so thank you Peter Pan, Calculator, and Papa Rose, and there will be others.
I hesitate to draw too many broad comparisons between the AT then and now, because now is only a few days. I was chatting with a day hiker and observed I hadn’t seen a pump filter during this trip, then an hour later I notice that Shawn and Terry might be using a pump filter.
June 11, Monday, Tom’s Run Shelter to James Fry Shelter, 10.9
The Noodleheads stop by, the first people I’ve seen on the trail where I’m certain they are ultralight backpacking. Seem real nice, though walking so fast I may never see them again.
A short easy walk down from Tom’s Run Shelter to Pine Grove Furnace State Park, with a small grocery and nearby hostel. The grocery has the “Half-Gallon Challenge”, where thru-hikers try to eat a half gallon of ice cream in one sitting. Typical times for thru-hikers who had come just ahead of me was 31 minutes, and many took the challenge, in celebration for completing the “official” half-way point on the Trail. The Pine Grove General Store has a large shady front porch, and although not open until 9AM, they had AC plugs for charging phones, which is a good thing. The Ironmasters Mansion Hostel did not open until 5PM (the Companion said 4PM) so I would explore the park, take in the nearby AT Museum, rest, and relax.The thru-hiker group from yesterday came down from the hostel. I mentioned to Golden how I had seen her float down a steep rocky trail with huge pack, and asked if she had done cross country. She smiled yes and said, “Downhill is my super power”. Lance, Willie, and others depart up the Trail.
Ironmasters Mansion
Lake at Pine Grove Furnace State Park
Official half-way marker
Someone comes by and says, “Hi, I’m Tubesocks.” I remember being asked if I had met Tubesocks yet, and here he is. Picture a 300 pound man, around 35, heavily tattooed on legs (and stomach, but that is a story in itself), lugging a really huge pack with a hammock visible– not a camping hammock, but one you would by to set up in the yard. Now picture this as a perfectly friendly voluble guy, willing to sit down and talk with you all day about anything and everything– and reality seems to warp around him just a bit. He is a grad student at some university in Pennsylvania, and conceived the idea of going on the Trail this summer collection stories, for a communications major. He only can hike three to five miles a day right now, but is dropping poundage and learning skills.
Tubesocks, Terry, Shawna, and Papa Rose, Pine Grove General Store porch
Papa Rose comes by, slack-packing, and says he has decided to keep slack-packing more today and skip the hostel. I give him my e-mail and ask him to send a photo of his climb to Katahdin, which he plans to do in August to complete his 2000. The (pair of section hikers) stroll in, also plan on staying at the hostel. Terry (dad) and Shawna (daughter) got inspired to start section hiking after she read “A Walk in the Woods” and got him to read it also. “Let’s do that!”
Another thru-hiker comes by, Steamer, also planning to hostel. He took a couple of weeks off at Harpers Ferry when he discovered his body was a mess. “The trail can kick your butt.” Steamer looks just like “John Locke” from “Lost”.
Earlier another hiker starting from Harpers Ferry this year to complete his AT hike started last year, will thereby complete his Triple Crown, since he already did the CDT and PCT. Tall, and long legged, his pack appeared ultra-light.
Tubesocks notices a partially erased tattoo on Terry’s lower leg. Turns out it used to have his wife’s (Shawna’s mom) name on it– before they divorced. Tubesocks talks about a friend he trades tatts for photo/website/miscellaneous services, and says that koi tattoo are very often used to cover an old tattoo– presumably because of its bold lines and colors. I burst out in amazed laughter. “That’s the great thing about the trail”, I exclaim. “All this knowledge you would never have been exposed to in normal life.” Tubesocks could go into detail about a great many thru-hikers, which is a lesson to me: You do not have to keep pace with anybody if you can put yourself out there and share deeply during that moment of passing.
Tubesock’s tummy tatt
Appalachian Trail Museum
Iron Furnace at Pine Grove Furnace State Park
I discover that the local hostel does not have laundry facility, so go on to the next shelter.
June 12, Wednesday James Fry Shelter to Alec Kennedy Shelter, 8.1
Last night I asked Steamer, “What about your rain hear? Have you ever seen any hiker on the AT with an umbrella?”
He scowls like there’s an unpleasant taste in his mouth. “Two. (pause) One wouldn’t listen to anyone; had to go his own way. (pause) Generally I just take a rain day for an all day rain.”
This morning sky is threatening, but hasn’t started rain yet. Getting all the way to Boiling Springs gets me to grocery store that might, just might, have ace bandages, possible relief for knee. I wore an ace bandage every day for 1988 AT trip, and seemed to help. The town might also have a hotel with laundry. No such amenities for a week now. About twenty miles away, high for my injured condition, but possible if I walk slowly and carefully. This terrain is some of the gentlest on the AT, passing through farm fields… once you get down the mountain.
Steamer and Poet are in tents, so I am alone in the shelter. Able to quietly leave by 6AM, eating my Logan bread breakfast while hiking.
After a bit drizzling begins, and I pull out my umbrella. Still another shelter, with some rocks I seem to remember, then easy down to Boiling Springs. The rain comes down harder, my boots start to look slightly damp on the outside. First the toe guard, then the front suede stripes, then the next suede stripes, progressing backwards. I remember Steamer pointing out the shoes cost two days of wet feet when soaked; I assume because of the extra cushioning. He speaks from experience as he still wears his original Moabs from when he started the Trail. Wet feet, and partially wet shorts at the edges where umbrella does not always extend. I hit the rocks on the run before Alec Kennedy Shelter, and discover a maze, where the trail playfully threads its way zig-zagged through rocks, huge boulder outcroppings on an exposed ridge. Not so playful now. A cross-breeze as I hit the exposed area make umbrellas not possible, even if you did not need both hands for trekking poles. Insane to go back, insane to go forward, worse to stay put. Water resistant wind shirt goes on, then rain mittens to keep hands from freezing. Vibram soles on Moabs perform superbly, clinging to soaked limestone with uncanny tenacity. Finally through the maze, and a long several miles down to the shelter while thoroughly soaked. Luckily no one is in the shelter to witness my stupidity. As I quaff multiple hot chocolates and an extra hot dinner, I vow to heed thru-hikers’ advice attentively, and definitely take rain days when all-day-rains are forecast.
Couple of hours later Papa Rose strolls in from the rain like it was nothing, has a quick unheated lunch snack, and plunges back into the maelstrom. “Wanna finish this section and see family!” Then Mad Hat and a young local section hiker named Terry arrive. They hiked even further in the downpour. Mad Hat says, “I love hiking in rain; get some of my best mileage days.”
Later I learn Steamer hiked on into Boiling Springs that same day. So I hear.
June 13, Wednesday, Alec Kennedy Shelter to Darlington Shelter, 18.2
Easy 3 or 4 miles from Alec Kennedy down to Boiling Springs PA. Mad Hat and I get an early start for a funny reason: Terry lights up a cigarette while still inside his sleeping bag, at 4:20AM, then falls back to sleep. I’m not mad in the slightest, for I have another anecdote and know another eccentric character. (Wait until Coco reads about this.) I am truly surprised at the percentage of 20-something thru-hikers that light up a fag first thing when pulling into a shelter for the evening. How can they still perform as well as they do? Why?
Pennsylvania farmland
Down to a lovely bucolic town, with centerpiece a lake with unlikely degree of transparency, with fish, ducks, and even a swan. An ATC office is already open, and a welcoming staff person points me to the AC outlet. My philosophy is, if you’re waiting or resting, you might as well be charging. Mad Hat goes in search of breakfast. The post office no longer opens at 8, so I hike a mile out to a supermarket in search of: 2 ace bandages, watch battery, mole foam, and spare pen. They market only has one ace bandage and no watch battery. (Small town people mush really appreciate Amazon.) On way back stop into a convenience store and find a single ace bandage on the shelf. Score! Find mile foam at fisherman’s outfitters near ATC office, but no runners shorts, alas. Get mail box and take back to office to organize.
Lake at Boiling Springs
A mom and two little girls, flanked by an even smaller brothers, comes to drop off some fresh grapes for hikers. The girls are too shy to get near us, and designate Mom as their agent. A “trail angel” is someone who bestows a kindness on hikers. This mom is teaching her little girls to be angels at an early age, and I testify the grapes tasted the sweeter for it.
Boiling Springs
Meat and Aeolus (spelling?)(formerly Austrian but now South Carolinian) are other hikers getting ready. I wrap my shin and knee with high hopes, then call Coco on her 18th birthday.
Finally get ready for a long 15 mile hike on very level farmlands and “hedgerows” (really tree-field boundaries) with no water source until the shelter… and of course soggy feet. Fields of corn and clover. Silos, paths winding through mulberry trees ripe with fruit, some kind of cherry tree with dark fruit, wild strawberries, and nearby traffic noise all day from turnpike and/or other freeways.
At one place Aeolus taking a break and invites me to join him. He sees the trouble I am having with my leg and kindly offers detailed advice and mini lesson in biomechanics, based on his experience after breaking both ankles and studying properties of shoes very closely. While unwrapping my two bandages I am shaken to discover a swollen ankle. Were the wrappings too tight? More tendonitis? Will probably require hiking down to nearest town and staying there until I have answers.
Hmmm
Lightning bugs frolic outside the shelter. Why indulge in depressing thoughts when lightning bugs are about?
June 14, Thursday, Darlington Shelter to The Doyle, 11.4
In Darlington Shelter for the night with me was Mad Hat and Just John. Aeolus and Meat tented. All were planning to spend a night in The Doyle, a hotel dedicated to serving hikers. From Calculator I got the impression that if you are thru-hiking and haven’t done The Doyle, you have really missed what the AT was about.
After a week on the Trail, my injuries, probably tendonitis, threaten the entire enterprise. The Doyle is super-inexpensive, hostel rates, so I plan on at least two nights in town healing, and have my beloved “Base Support” overnight equipment replacements.
Downtown Duncannon PA
Six hour hike down to town, with the typical large elevation change, but after five hours I had not lost any elevation. And now the trail is getting rocky. I am last into town but I made it. Steamer is found at the bar in The Doyle, also stayed two nights. But first about town: Duncannon is a huge contrast with Boiling Springs, run-down wood buildings instead of stately field-stone, railroad line blocking access to waterfront, working class town, once beaten down, trying to pick itself up and reclaim downtown buildings. The Doyle is over 100 year old, one of the original Anhauser-Busch hotels. Lots of bars and pubs on main street.
The Doyle, Duncannon
Vicki and Pat at The Doyle
The Doyle… well for normal people you might hesitate to stay there. Looking around the inside, you definitely wouldn’t stay there. But to a hiker, a chance at a shower and soft bed and chance to relax with fellow hikers, well you are willing to overlook a crumbling old structure, communal bathrooms, and no sign of anything to code anywhere. To sign-in I walk into the bar, see hikers with beers, know I’m in the right place. Vicki greets me and signs me in, Pat is in back handling cooking. Up to my fourth floor room by stairs, find the shower, wait in the common area until it’s unoccupied, then shower. Next a choice of food or laundry. I go down and ask Vicki if the duct tape on the coin washing machine in the bathroom means what I think. But a laundry is just two blocks down; I passed it coming in. Yet I see someone at the bar being served a real cheeseburger, and I gotta get one. Then laundry while charging, rest, talk to “Base Support” who is really helpful on medical issues.
The Doyle
Later for dinner I see Mad Hat at an Italian joint, Zeiderelli’s, and join him. I had a cheese steak sandwich. He was trying to finish a “small” sausage pizza. I helped a little. Mad Hat was a conductor for the Union-Pacific Railroad, retired at sixty, now hiking in early sixties. His was a union job, now part of the teamsters. He is also a volunteer firefighter, which I later learn he started in his twenties.
With his beard and Minnesota accent, I have to ask him if he knows “The Red Green Show”, and that he looks and sounds something like Red Green, which he takes in good humor. The beard is just for the hike, so I might not recognize him afterwards.
Sleep comes readily. My cell phone recharges, and so do I.
June 15, Friday, The Doyle, Duncannon PA, zero
Waking in an actual bed indoors, clean and with clean clothes, was a delightful experience after a week on The Trail. Even better is spending time in an official “trail town” that makes an effort to cater to hikers. I stumbled across the road to Goodies, and found Mat Hat finishing the French toast special. I join him and had the same. Hat was on his way up The Trail. Also said farewell to Aeolus and Just John. John had repaired his boot (yes, boot, not shoe) with shoe goo he found at the local hardware store. His foot was also giving him trouble, but he was hiking on.
Later saw Sprinkles and Nokey at The Doyle. Sprinkles had an appointment with a doctor about her ankle. They had a possible side trip with thirteen members of his family in a cottage on the outer banks of North Carolina shore. His family would be driving through town today, so they would have to decide soon which path to take. Later she tells me the doctor diagnosed bursitis of the ankle, gave some recommendations, knowing she wouldn’t be stopping hiking but given methods of reducing pain and damage. For anti-inflammatory meds the doctor recommended Aleve, perhaps because of fewer doses(?).
Juan Solo is the new trail name of an eighteen year old thru-hiker with southern Californian valley accent who I met at Tea Horse Inn hostel at Harpers Ferry. He is with Wall-E as they are ordering The Doyle’s chicken strips in buffalo sauce. In walk Terry and Shawna! They were ending their section hike in Duncannon. This is their first AT section, though they hiked a lot on other trails. Their car was only a couple of blocks away to take them back to civilization, but the have to stop at this hiking institution known as The Doyle. They order; I get a salmon burger. Nokey and Sprinkles let me know they are going to North Carolina. After repast I give Terry and Shawna a tour of the hotel, with particular attention to eccentric details I have discovered.
Terry and Shawna end their hike at The Doyle
Tour of The Doyle rooms
I bid Terry and Shawna a hearty farewell. Will be strange not seeing them turn up unexpectedly. Maybe they will do some day hikes just to mess with my mind.
The trail runner Coach comes into the Doyle, polishes off a pork chop and baked potato feast, and gives some advice on the upcoming trail and treatment of my leg. He also says Rausch Shelter is closed but alternatives exist. Later, looking at the Companion, I do not see good options. No tenting at the Rausch is allowed, and other shelters are already too far away from it for the slow stately ramp-up I had planned.
Suddenly no buddies around. But I have some equipment to modify, an item to order, and leg to ice. And at 4PM I take the free shuttle to the large-ish supermarket, along a busy road too dangerous for hikers to make by foot; get some extra food since I plan to ramp mileage up slowly this week. I am joined on grocery outing by DW (which stands for “Dog Whisperer”, since he was bitten by a dog).
The rest of Pennsylvania is reputed to be seriously rocky, real training for New Hampshire and Maine. If I can just make it through “Rocksylvania”…
June 16, Saturday, The Doyle to Peter’s Mountain Shelter, 11.2
Two days of rest&relaxation at The Doyle were good for the body, but white blazes are calling! After treating myself to a last cooked breakfast at Goodies across the street (open at 6AM), grab my pack and bid a fond farewell to Duncannon, a real trail town. Starting at 6:45AM, the town was quiet with a few joggers out. My plan is to try a slow majestic ramp of mileage until Port Clinton, while getting used to inserts. (Nokey said the Superfeet may hurt the first two weeks, but you may notice your knees, ankles, and feet lining up straighter over time.) Also plan continuing analgesics and cat meds (oral steroids), knee brace, and cold packs at the end of the day.
The first day is pretty easy, climbing up to a ridge and enjoying views on both sides of the valleys below. I fear my modest cell camera will not be able to capture the essence. Sure, the trail is rocky, and I am prepared and expecting rocks for the rest of Pennsylvania.
Soon I am passed by DW, but chance to catch up and chat while he stops for lunch snack. Youngish, he was a journalist in Indiana but expects never to work for a newspaper again. He is currently blogging for a small press website, and blogging his trip by sending entries to his girlfriend from Louisville. He expects to leave Indiana, possibly for a location with more outdoor recreational choices.
Just John comes by and greets. I thought he was already way down the trail. I explained my slow ramp, so he might know I won’t bump into him on trail for a few days. Although The Trail continues to surprise…
My hike is already finished at 3PM at Peter’s Mountain Shelter, a mere eleven miles. Here is a vast twenty-person structure with a loft. I am joined by a father and teenage daughter and schnauzer, though eventually they retire to a tent. I think they are bothered by the prospect of mice scurrying around at night, even though I explain that my snoring usually drives them away. The family is section hiking the AT in Pennsylvania in small chunks.
Being a weekend, I see many day hikers and expect lots of company in the shelter, but I might be the only one.
The distance to the next shelter, Rausch, is 17.8 miles, which strikes me as excessively distant. Rausch is closed, with signs posted warning northbounders. We will all have to tent in primitive campsites at least one night.
I am currently at the site of the original AT Shelter, built by Shaffer, later removed and put in the AT Museum, which I already viewed. When he originally build the shelter, it was without a floor. Later named in his honor. A floor was later added, and he asked that his name be taken off the shelter, as he felt that wood floors would attract vermin. Three hundred stone steps down to the spring, not a trip I wish to repeat.
Very late, after my journal entry, Whistles makes her entrance. Here is only the second young woman thru-hiker I have seen walking long distances alone, after Lady Forward. She normally travels with Crush, Peppaboy, and that extensive group, but is doing this part of Pennsylvania north-to-south after attending a friend’s wedding in Philly and soon another in Virginia. Then back with friends on trail. We end up talking of many things: her volunteer work for rape crisis and teen sex education, getting EMT certification. I ask the impertinent and borderline-forbidden question about plans after the AT. “Well, ‘Dad’ …”, she responds with a sarcastic tone, which cracks me up. Well played.
June 17, Sunday, Peter’s Mountain Shelter to Rausch Shelter, 18.0
Whistles and I bid fond farewells and hopes of future trail meeting. Dear reader, you must understand how uncannily often that happens on The Trail. Four miles down, I remember that last evening Whistles observed that she accidentally left her fuel bottle in the previous shelter, and that would have been a good time for me to offer hot water– and me with extra fuel. I am so dense… well, a guy and a geek.
Today will be a walk in solitude. I continue to travel along the narrow ridge, trees blocking all but glimpses of farms and towns on either side, then down a thousand feet to a road, back up a thousand feet. Weather stays cool and clear all day, but not enough breeze to blow away gnats intent on getting in eyes and ears for their own nefarious ends.
Gradually the trail leaves a ridge and follows a meandering stream, with ground more level though still pretty high up. A few miles further than planned, I hike all the way to Rausch Shelter to take advantage of the cold spring water used for cold packs to help my leg at the end of the day.
The shelter is in the middle of reconstruction and has no roof. The shelter platform is still extant, so I could sleep cowboy style. On the other hand, my latest forecast is for rain tomorrow, so I practice setting up my tent-tarp for first time on this trip. Hmmm, it doesn’t look like it offers much protection in a blowing downpour. Well, I may find out soon.
Rausch Shelter being reconstructed
My leg and feet seem to be getting better a little. I should still keep mileage moderate for a few days. Knock on wood.
First use of tent-tarp, near Rausch Shelter
Quiet day. Saw almost no thru-hikers the entire time. I may be traveling in a bubble.
June 18, Monday, Rausch Shelter to 501 Shelter, 17.5
One advantage of tenting by myself is being able to break camp with disturbing anyone. Out by 6AM– huzzah! On the way out, notice the lone southbounder’s tent was joined by another. The sky looks gray, very likely rain later. Pretty smooth trail without rocks for a while, then ridge walking again, down to roads, including underpass for I-81, the only man-made structure to shelter from rain until Penn’s Shelter hours from the highway. Shortly after, a light rain starts, and I find the umbrella can be twined through my pack straps and slightly rest on my head, leaving both hands free for trekking poles on the copious rocks. Slowly, inexorably, the shoes go from damp to wet to soaking, and I stop to wring out socks about five times during the day.
Swatara Creek footbridge
The rain starts around 9:30AM and only lasts an hour or two– not the afternoon rains I am used to at home– but extra grass magically appears to capture and release moisture onto my shoes. Hmmm, should I try low-cut water resistant gaiters? Anyway I already proved that wet feet will not harm me permanently, so on to William Penn Shelter by 1PM. One mystery guest sleeping in the shelter, so I sit at the picnic table, eat and wring socks a last time.
William Penn Shelter
Descending down to a highway, I discover trail magic! A trail angel has left a cooler of iced sodas and bags of Doritos and assorted snacks for hikers. The angel, Zig Zag, includes a book to sign like a shelter journal.
Trail magic by Zig Zag
Finally reach 501 Shelter around 3:30PM. This shelter is completely enclosed, with a polygonal sun-roof, twelve bunks, and “solar shower” completely covered by tree cover so the solar gain is negligible.
501 Shelter
The people inside are unfamiliar to me, until Peppaboy enters a few minutes later. Peppaboy laughs a lot, so I can tell he is in a shelter before I see anyone there. He thru-hiked the AT four years ago by flip-flopping. Twenty-eight, he saved up, quit his job, and is now thru-hiking again where he ends at Katahdin.
Big Sky and Diesel are a couple at the shelter. She never hiked or back-packed before starting the AT. She is now getting really bored with hiking each day.
Sitting at the central table, I ask Peppaboy and G-Bird about future stops I should not miss, since they both hiked the northern sections of the AT recently. They pull out Awols, and Big Sky and Diesel join in and listen. I make note of several hostels, snacking opportunities, and other locations to definitely visit.
Zig Zag, the trail angel, comes in and takes a bunk above me. Later she becomes ill, but thinks it is food poisoning since her husband is having the same symptoms. Slingshot, Kelly, and a kid seem to be hiking together. G-Bird is section hiking from Harpers Ferry to Maine, starting on June 9, so she is faster than me on average. She already did the same section last year! Age twenty-two, from Sweden, majoring in international business, she only has the summers to hike, and does not want to hike southern AT in heat of summer. She has hiked the Camino de Santiago three times! Her plan upon graduating in a year or two is to thru-hike the Pacific Crest Trail. On her AT trip last year her trail name was Trauma. Got giardia and only did not treat water one time. Banged a clavicle and had several other mishaps.
G-Bird hikes with -12C sleeping bag!
Zig Zag tried to thru-hike last year, got 70% complete, but had to quit because of medical complications. She had hypo thyroid that switched to hyper (or vice versa) and lost a lot of weight. Now she is giving back by being a trail angel. Which is a lesson on how to gracefully switch from a bitter defeat to constructive public service. Her living example makes her a trail angel in more ways than she knows. Thus endeth the parable of Zig Zag.
June 19, Tuesday, 501 Shelter to Eagle’s Nest Shelter, 15.1
The huge central skylight at 501 Shelter acts as on acoustic amplifier for rain drops, making a small drizzle seen a torrent. People seem slow to rise, so I do not start moving until 6:45AM, and on the trail by 7:30AM.
Skylight at 501
A wet feet day, and early light rain insures a wet-foot day tomorrow. Luckily, the day starts with lots of rocks! You read that right. Rocks mean less grass, and grass means wetter feet, so Pennsylvania rocks have toughened me up to appreciate their advantages.
Dewdrops on spider web
The path is more or less level, with few view opportunities, no people in sight, and a moderate fifteen mile day, so it is possible to zone out and be in autopilot mode. Later the blazes become scarce, and the fog does not light until 2PM. Light-blue blazes look rather white in the fog.
I’m on track for 3PM arrival and promise of dry feet. Diesel passes me at 2PM, and PeppaBoy and G-Bird zoom by at 2:30. I can hear them chatting back and forth down the trail– they seem to be having a good day together. Big Sky catches up, and I push my speed up a little higher than safe for my legs. She says go ahead– she didn’t want to pass.
After the arrival at Eagle’s Nest Shelter, some relationship drama ensues, and Big Sky and Diesel move on.
Eagles Nest Shelter
A father and two teen join us to dry out and tent-camp nearby. They are from Florida, section hiking the AT in order, three weeks at a time: Just Dad, Pyro, and Blazer. (I later learn this charming family has been written up in AT Journeys magazine.)
Blazer, Just Dad, Pyro, G-Bird, and PeppaBoy
June 20, Wednesday, Eagle’s Nest Shelter to Port Clinton Pavilion, 8.6
In Eagles Nest Shelter were G-Bird, a late arrival southbounder (sobo), and myself. In tents were Peppaboy and the trio Just Dad, Pyro, and Blazer.
Short day today, but long enough, and hot enough. Rocks on the steep climb down were damp even though the leaves and ground were dry. It was hot enough the rocks were “sweating”.
Down into Port Clinton, a tiny town with loud traffic and few services, though the people were friendly except for the staff at the Port Clinton Hotel, where I procured a shower and laundry. By the time I walked back to the pavilion I needed another shower, it was so hot.
Port Clinton
Big tactical error when doing laundry: forgot to bring my charger! No electricity at pavilion or anywhere else, until the kind postal clerk pointed out one free plug in the post office later.
When doing laundry, Just Dad came down, saying the kids were parked in the motel room upstairs while he does chores like laundry and replace a leaky sleeping pad. He, like I, was disappointed to find there was not a regular shuttle service to Cabela’s (outdoor superstore) as guides and trail lore would have one believe. Back at the pavilion, G-Bird was skipping the next section (superfund site) and would rejoin the AT in a couple of days, presumably synched to Peppaboy‘s hike. Her friend Book-Smart from last year’s hike rented a car and they will zero around for a couple of days. He offered rides to Cabela’s since G-Bird needed boots there. I joined up and asked if Just Dad could come. We found him in the hotel laundry room, and he got ready to come with us super-fast.
Cabela’s super-store
I had never gone to Cabela’s. Life-size animals are displayed with toy guns the kids ca use to practice shooting. Huge floorspace. Desk at front where you checked your guns. I scored a few key items, but forgot two because I did not make a list, but a good trip. The last time I was in a big-box store seems ages ago.
Kids can shoot at critters inside Cabela’s
After returning to the pavilion, G-Bird said her good-byes and pointed out we might not meet each other on The Trail again: She hikes fast. On to the post office to get food drop, mail back some items, send letters, and recharge a little. Then back to pavilion to pack food in new dry bag and sort out equipment.
Joiner and Progress, from outside DC, come by and go out in search of sustenance. Slingshot and Frenchy come by and looked at pavilion dubiously, and will likely try tenting in the park across the street.
June 21, Thursday, Port Clinton Pavilion to Allentown Shelter, 22.6
Port Clinton was perhaps not the best choice for the night. Although well-hidden by trees, the road was close-by and high with truck traffic, noisy with “jake brakes”. Close by the river, it was quite buggy. The good-hearted citizens installed a nearby street light that stays on all night. And did you know Pennsylvania is hot in the summer? So imagine me sleeping on a couple of hot benches pushed together, with a bandana tied over my eyes as sleep mask, a bug net over the head, ear plugs, sometimes flipping over the sleep pad because it is so sweaty, and often fanning the sleeping back to disperse the heat.
If only I had headed out even as late as 6PM, would have hit a spring and potential campsite, and it doesn’t get dark until 8PM. Out in the morning at 6AM, and find trail magic at the first water stop! The trail offers high ridge with some views, and a few rock fields and roadways, gratefully accepted. Keep being passed and passing Just Dad and crew. Finally reached Eckville Shelter at hot mid-day, situated a short distance down a residential street The shelter was behind a caretaker’s residence, and this well-aged hearty individualist with thick German accent was perpetually on the move with outside chores: power washing the shed, trimming bushes, painting the porch, on and on, never stopping.
Caretaker at Eckville, always busy
Eckville is known for having a solar shower, and after that hot hike (rumored to 100F) I planned to do that first thing, BUT, who do I see waiting in the shelter area? Peppaboy! Seems he had heat exhaustion that really knocked him down, and could only hike 6 or 8 miles the previous day.
The shower was refreshing, and I allowed the water to soak my day-clothes and wore them during the heat of the afternoon. Just Dad and crew arrive and seek out the tenting area, a grassy shady lot across the street. I alternate chatting with them and the crew nearer the shelter, including Peppaboy and Bobcat.
Eckville Shelter has a charging station for visitors to use without having to ask. I really appreciate that, and could even call Coco and e-mail “Base Support”, since 3G is available. I am having an equipment problem they could solve. My trekking pole tips were wearing out, and if they wear any further it would destroy the tip screw mechanism, making the poles unusable. They could send me spare tips quickly to the next post office.
This is one of the hottest days yet, and I drink double the amount of water. The plan was to start early, hike until hot, then rest until the heat breaks and hike some more. So at 4PM I start the three to four hour hike to Allentown Shelter, about the same time as Peppaboy and Bobcat. Finally arrived at 7:45PM, quickly get water and hang a bear line, and set up my tent-tarp. I planned to use it instead of shelter so I could sleep with fewer clothes on without grossing anyone out. Also joined at site by Progress and Joiner.
June 22, Friday, Allentown Shelter to Palmerton hostel, 17.7
Shower in the middle of the night. Packed tent after wiping it dry. Not out until 8AM– scandalous! Today would be a no-trekking-pole day due to tip problem mentioned earlier. Lots of huge boulder jumping where trekking poles could be handy. About the time Progress and Joiner pass me I slip once, unharmed, and try to keep up with them of a bit so they can render first aid if needed. :-) Progress has a spare pole and kindly offers, but I am in rhythm of using hands. Who carries a spare pole? Not understanding.
Progress, Bobcat, and Joiner on PA rocks
Several more boulder runs during the day, mixed with some dirt roads. I’m not too proud to hike on dirt roads, nosiree. Some trails indifferently blazed, and Pennsylvania wildlife area marker looks too much like a white blaze. Later in, I discover the white reflective marker used for power transmission line right-of-way looks remarkably like a white blaze, and spend a pleasant hour on a false trail, including the most technically challenging boulder hopping of the day, which everyone else missed. Yet I was only twenty feet from the real trail, and was not too proud to ask a local on a smoke break on some back road where to go.
Stopped shortly after mid-day for water at Bake Oven Knob Shelter. The closest spring was dry, so had to go down another several hundred feet for spring number 2. Peppaboy arrived at the shelter to rest, and brought back a few black raspberries to share after his water run. While he rested, I took off. Several miles to next shelter, and I was undecided about staying in shelter or going to free hostel hosted by town government of Palmerton.
Up high on a ridge, a thunderstorm struck, with discharges rather close by. Just had to keep walking and hope trail gets off ridge soon… which it did. Rain followed, only thirty minutes worth. First time using my rain jacket, since I sent umbrella home. Finally got to last shelter of the day, George W. Outerbridge Shelter, and was happy for the piped spring nearby. Peppaboy shows up, resting a bit, and I decide to plunge on into town and he follows soon. Everyone else we had walking around during the day had by-passed the mid-day shelter and were already in town.
As I started to get to the blue-blaze trail into town, Peppaboy catches up, and I follow him, since he had gone through town a few years ago. We (he) decide to skip following blue blazes up a steep hill, reasoning the trail must drop down to the road we are following and cross some bridge over the river we are paralleling. We walk way too far. Apparently a foot bridge with a short-cut has gate closed after 4:30PM, so we had to take the hard way.
Nice clean hostel, with laundromat and useful businesses nearby. We arrive around 6:30 or 7:00, and I quickly gather stuff for things at once: shower, start laundry, leave phone charging, get Chinese takeout (including potstickers) and eat on steps of town hall, make a run to pharmacy for sundries, back to laundry to finish up.
Doors locked and lights out at 10PM. Relaxed easy vibe among all the hikers, nearly all who I have met on trail before. Saw Saunter, who I haven’t seen in a while, and Lady Forward, who I have been a day behind for a long time. Good mix of people, easy conversation.
June 23, Saturday, Palmerton hostel to primitive camp 2 miles past Wind Gap, 22.4
When is it acceptable to start stirring in a hiker hostel? The oldest guys move earliest for old guy urgent morning business, Saunter, Croc, and then myself. I go upstairs to the empty gym to finish a trail journal entry, and when I get back a few minutes later nearly everyone is already gone. this is a problem for me, because I came into town on an unconventional route, and have no idea of correct way back to the AT. And Peppaboy seems to be sleeping in. I did get a hint from Dog Whisperer to try Third Street, so I follow that until a friendly older couple out on a porch point me further towards the correct way. Odd this route doesn’t have a physical blue blaze. I’m about to climb up to the Trail when I join Saunter and Croc. We see a blue blaze next to a white blaze, and Saunter is certain we should take it– I am less sure after yesterday’s detour. As we climb he realizes it is the old AT, closed for EPA remediation, and will join back up with the current AT at the top, but our route is in the shade and shorter than the official trail. Sure enough, at the top we meet Jerry Not Bad who started before me. Also see Lady Forward, who is walking similar pace but behind and mostly out of sight all day. The climb up the ridge of the remediation offers some of the best views of my trip. Clear vistas of old industrial sites and small towns and fields laid out for our appreciation. I seem to be hiking in a bubble the rest of the day. I have to take a break at a water spring that involves a long off-trail hike, and I assume any trailing hikers near my bubble pass me at this point.
Blue Mountain as seen from Palmerton
Old industrial sites as viewed from Blue Mountain
The placement of shelters is not so great for my situation. Leroy Smith Shelter is a 16 mile day, which would make the next day a twenty mile hike into town, so I would arrive late and not be able to enjoy town as much. Going beyond Smith to the next shelter is 29 miles, clearly too long a hike.
When I finally arrive at Leroy Smith at 5PM I look around, and decide to walk on. Perhaps I will dry camp tonight somewhere in the middle between the two shelters. My guidebook documents a friendly hotel owner just five miles down the trail who gives hikers free water and sells sodas. I buy a couple to show gratitude, get extra water from hose. Back on The Trail I begin looking for campsites north of Windy Gap. Finally settle on a spot around 7:30PM, throw a bear line, set up tent, use remaining wipes to clean off for tick inspection, and cook double hot dinners. I hiked a long day and do not want hunger pangs at 3AM, particularly inconvenient when your food bag is hanging way up in a tree. All finished by 9PM, read a little e-book, and sleep with satisfaction that I should be able to get to Delaware Water Gap by next early afternoon and have a town day.
The night was a little cooler than before, so briefly I could crawl into sleeping bag nekkid instead of staying on top of it all night.
June 24, Sunday, primitive camp 2 miles past Wind Gap to Church of the Mountain Hostel, Delaware Water Gap, 13.6
I awake and break camp at my location a couple of miles trail north of Wind Gap. Head out by 6AM, doing a fourteen mile short day, not expecting to stop much. Should be in town by 2 or 3.
Pennsylvania is not done with us as far as hiking on rocks. Bouldering, little ankle-crunching rocks, mixed with little bits of smooth trail. Gnats start buzzing early today, 9AM instead of after noon the day before.
Getting to Kirkridge Shelter seems to take a long time, though I appreciate the water faucet on a short blue blaze trail. For a lot of the day we would be taken along a ridge that was one of the least frequently blazed in my experience, and I had to re-walk a fifteen minute segment to convince myself I was really still on The Trail. Then a long descent on rocky path all the way down to town, lovely in places lined with mountain laurel, passing many dozens of locals out for a day hike, all seeming to be walking much easier than I am, especially the 4-year-old kids that just went by.
I decide to do an emergency field repair on one trekking pole to help me get down. I am noticing shin pain that has not been present for several days, and new locations for pre-blisters where my feet should now be all toughness. Anyway, a piece of old rubber trekking pole tip I find on the trail plus some molefoam and seam sealer make a half-way durable tip to give me a pole for the downhill.
Finally, finally the trail enters a parking lot and ten civilization. Oh, there is the famed ice cream shop that is located directly on The Trail! Just a little ways down is Church of the Mountain Hostel. I walk in, and no one is around at 3PM, though packs are scattered. Looking at the register I see Not Bad walked directly from Palmerton Hostel to here in one day, over thirty miles! I also notice Big Sky and Diesel are registered. I find the towel closet and enjoy a shower. One hiker, just leaving, tells me about milkshakes at the ice cream place and hot dogs and pie for $2.49 special at Village Farmer and Bakery. I go out at partake of both. Much bloating. Also walk by two tiny outfitter shops and establish they do not carry what I need.
Ice cream shoppe right on The Trail
Carbs
Back to hostel and a few hikers who tend to always be well ahead (Frodo, Pancake, …) are soon leaving. Diesel and Big Sky come in and chat, and move on, apparently to a hotel room. Peppaboy shows up. Then Lady Forward and DW. And a section hiker southbound, Mountain Ann.
Church of the Mountain hostel
Conversation in shelter, paraphrased: Sagebrush: During long hiking days I’ve been trying to envision “Appalachian Trail the Video Game” for Wii Fit. The nunchuk controllers could be trekking poles. Leaning on the balance board controls which rock you step on next. A little status window shows your water, agility, food, and so forth. Peppaboy: You know, I’ve also been imagining the AT Video Game. Like the way you think DW: [comes in from other room] I’ve been thinking about this as well. Simply hiking would be too boring. You have to have options like Grand Theft Auto. While thumbing a ride, you can car-jack and cause general mayhem.
Imagining the video game of the AT, while hiking the AT: It’s a guy thing.
