Flow and Spew

  • CDT NM 2025 Day 19, Friday April 25
  • Start mile 473.5
  • End Bonita Zuni Alternate mile 4
  • Miles walked: 26.3

My water bottles froze again. That has been happening a lot lately.

Soon the route goes by spiky lava, very different from the viscous flow from yesterday.

I believe this is called A’a, a Hawaiian word that is said to be what you would yell if you were walking on it in bare feet.

After a short highway walk I come to Bandera Volcano, the largest of the Chain of Craters.

A short walk allows a view of the volcano caldera.

As a tourist spot, Bandera offers wifi, snacks, water, and latrine for hikers.

After another short roadwalk, I arrive at the El Malpais Monument Visitor Center, closed long term, sadly. El Malpais comes from the Spanish for “bad country”.

A path follows an old railroad grade, possibly for hauling lumber.

The path starts passing several areas of lava, typically weathered into rocks averaging 10 inches or so. Here is a rock showing gas bubbles during formation.

Here is a slab of lava in the process of breaking into several rocks.

Soon instead of walking past volcanic rock, we are hiking on top. Several caves are visible, from collapsed domes.

Walking on the lava is treacherous: a spill could be quite painful. Ask me how I know.

I wish these photos could convey the deep variations of black of the rocks, mixed with red and orange highlights from minerals leaching out, and the colors of lichens on exposed rock. You will just have to come see for yourself.

The route passes by several collapsed domes that are quite long, hundreds of feet.

The edge of a cave gives some idea how thick the lava flow was in that area.

Eventually the lava tour ends, and I go on the Bonita Zuni Alternate, up a wide grassy canyon.

Finished audiobook Five Continental Op Stories, by Dashiell Hammett.

Lava

  • CDT NM 2025 Day 18, Thursday, April 24
  • Start mile 448.4 beginning Chain of Craters
  • End mile 473.5
  • Miles walked: 25.1

The route goes on top of a lava flow, with crevasses, caves, collapsed domes, and otherworldly swirling shapes, that I fear the camera cannot fully capture. The flow sustains thriving vegetation with the smallest bits of soil.

Hiking on the lava requires intense concentration, following cairns and keeping upright under strange footing.

I was hoping the route would go by more lava flows today, but instead we go through range and forest, and past some cinder cones.

But at least we remain free of dirt road the entire day. Hoping for more lava tomorrow.

Finished audiobook The First Sir Percy: An Adventure of the Laughing Cavalier, by Baroness Emma Orczy.

York

  • CDT NM 2025 Day 17, Wednesday, April 23
  • Start mile 414.5 Toaster House
  • End mile 448.4 start Chain of Craters
  • Miles walked: 33.9

The route takes 603 to York Ranch Road, and stays on that nearly all day. Here is a picture of the road, not terribly interesting, but if I have to look at it all day, so should you.

In about 15 miles is TLC Ranch, which provides water and camping to hikers. Most of this road is private land, so a camping opportunity is welcome.

The road is sand, gravel, or caliche, typically going through juniper pinon forest. In the afternoon I see a stepped mesa/ridge in the distance, characteristic of the Grants area.

A solar well provides water for the day.

Going by York Ranch, the day is intensely hot, with no shade opportunities.

Finally past York Ranch, I get to the first view of a lava flow.

I need to go along pavement for two miles at sunset to get to the beginning of the cairns at Chain of Craters.

Finished audiobook Witch of the Demon Seas, by Poul Anderson.