July 22, Sunday, Happy Hill Shelter to Norwich VT trail angel home, 4.3
Although I expected an easy near-zero day, I started early to get the most out of it. A gentle mostly-downhill hike in cool air among tall trees, leaving from Happy Hill Shelter, I arrive in 2.5 hours to Norwich, Vermont, along a quiet street where I spy trail magic (a hiker exchange box) then trail magic again: nut bread and watermelon. Betsy Maislen, trail angel, invites me to sleep over at her house when I get done in town! I decline politely, and a little voice in my head reminds me that I decline help too quickly. She says I am about to hit longest stretch of road-hike on the AT.
Bridge over Connecticut River, viewed from NH side
Piano for public art project
A lovely small Vermont town is bounded by a river and bridge, at the end of which is New Hampshire… and a piano. The piano on the sidewalk is part of an art project where anyone is encouraged to play. I pull off into a riverside park for an important cell phone update with “Base Support”, then continue, near a large group of nobo hikers, into Hanover, New Hampshire. Past a bit of Dartmouth and into the student-ish retail part of Main Street. Hiker word-of-mouth told of several freebies to be had in town, so I search around, aided by a local guide the trail angel Betsy had handed me earlier.
Downtown Hanover
But first I called Betsy to see if I could still take her up on her generous officer, and she graciously assented. See, I eventually learn… slowly. Then I go to Bagel Basement for a free Everything Bagel with cream cheese, toasted just right. At a bench near the outfitters I see Willy from Vermont and asked him to pass on greetings to Peppaboy. Then I went by CVS for compression socks (on the recommendation of family for my swollen foot issue) and see Payman and Two Step. We chatted, and they are staying the night in a motel to wait for shoes for her.
Thank you Bagel Basement
I go to the library, closed until later, for wifi and charge. I need to get close to the entrance for signal, so a kind librarian lets me into the lobby and even opens a door so I get air conditioning– even though the library is not open yet.
I try to go to Lou’s Restaurant and Bakery, but it is way too popular; I try another couple of times during the day. Ramunto’s gave me a free slice of cheese pizza, and I also order a drink. Sculler is there, so we chat over ‘za. Then it’s over to Mountain Goat Outfitters for a free Snickers bar.
Enough food! Time to walk around Dartmouth, and I also scout the AT trail, leading out of town, so I have an easy time tomorrow after post office. I waste some time walking around Dartmouth athletic buildings before discovering the main campus and quad. Based on a hiker’s advice, I go to the (Howell?) Art Museum, which is small but excellent. The special exhibit on photos from a Vermont quarry are mind-blowing. The section on European post-Renaissance art had a quality of high color contrast that was unusual, but I don’t know what I’m talking about.
Baker Library tower, Dartmouth
The Quad
Hood Museum of Art
Around 3:30PM I call the Maislen-Schults to say I am done with town, and will accept a ride or walk as they prefer. Gray Beard picks me up at Hanover Inn, and I return to their home to see gear for several other hikers. Soon I have a shower, “town clothes”, laundry, and chocolate chip cookies to the precise degree of softness while being firm and not too crisp.
In a burst of energy Betsy makes dinner for three, including fresh sweet corn from the local farm stand, pasta salad, and bok choy. Gray Beard arrives and we eat out on the porch, looking for hummingbirds. Yes, there is dessert. Betsy assures me her energy burst is normal, and she is not safe with caffeine.
Trail angels Maislen & Schults
The Runaway Train hiking group also show, and join me sleeping in the basement.
July 23, Monday, Norwich to primitive camp two miles short of Firewarden’s Cabin, 22.9
Betsy drives me into Hanover around 6:30AM and drops me off at the post office. First I go to Cafe/Bakery, for once not crowded, and order a ridiculously huge “hiker breakfast”. On to post office at 7AM to get my packages. Companion was right: the post office lobby is not open but the clerk will give you packages by 7AM, a big help to hikers who like to stat early. Still it takes a while to repack food and mail letters, so I am on the trail at 8AM.
Someone in the cafe had mentioned a big rain last night. I do not see evidence on The Trail– must have missed this area.
New Hampshire has plenty of gnats, but not the advanced insect squadrons in first part of Vermont.
Too much city food, so I’m a little slow. Lots of up and down, not too technical yet, few views. Water is dry at most of the shelters. I am able to get a liter at a trail magic road crossing from an almost empty container. A sobo tells me about the “Ice Cream Man” who gives out water and an ice cream to hikers, and lets them rest and talk on his porch.
Bill Ackerly, the Ice Cream Man
I get to Trapper John Shelter around 4:30. Could call it an early day, but decide to go down to the Ice Cream Man house. About ten hikers are on the porch, including Sticks & Metric. I talk with Bill(?), a real character. Sticks & Metric are going another ten miles to camp near a brook– either they will be fast or night-hike.
I hope to get to Firewarden’s Cabin before dark, but the three-thousand foot altitude climb is tough, and I fall short by a couple of miles. I pitch a tent, string a bear line, and eat a no-cook meal, just before the rain starts.
Maybe the rain sounds harder in my tent-tarp because the tent wall is so close to my ears, but it had to be a huge downpour that lasted hours. I got some splash-back around the edges, but remained basically dry and warm. This was the toughest test yet of my shelter.
July 24, Tuesday, two miles below Firewarden’s cabin to Glencliff Hikers Welcome Hostel, 21.9
I hiked the remaining couple of miles to the cabin on now-treacherous slanted wet rock. No water, and now view because of fog. I am told I could see the Whites from here on a clear day. The climb down is much gentler than the way up. Rain threatens, and I am not quite able to make it to Hexacube Shelter before a downpour hits. a sobo couple (rare so far) Driver and Pitstop are there, and shortly move on when the rain abates. I cook a dinner meal to warm up, then start the big climb up Mount Cube with lots of flat rock on top and some views.
Firetower on Smarts Mountain Summit
The afternoon is occupied with up-and-down hiking that can wear down a hiker.
The hostel at Glencliff could be reached if I make a big push. I just have to watch out for wet rocks, which could cause a fall. I cut my shin on one fall, but nothing permanently damaged.
Around 6:30PM I meet some sobos who ask where I’m heading and I mention the hostel, but worry I might get in too late for check-in. They came from there and say lights-out is 10PM, so I should get there in time. I turn on the speed and arrive at the hostel at 8PM. Quickly I am registered, catch a van ride into Warren for sundries, then shower.Oh, and Sculler is here! Most of my other trail-buddies are a day to several days ahead of me, estimated from shelter journals. I miss their advice and knowledge, because I will need it for the Whites.
Hikers Welcome Hostel, Glencliff
July 25, Wednesday, Glencliff to Beaver Brook Shelter, 8.0
The Glencliff NH post office opens at 7AM, which is hiker friendly. I get two packages (food, trekking pole replacement) but expect two more: warm clothing and replacement shoes. I return to mail old poles and letters and ask when today’s packages arrive, and my warm clothes box just arrived! Now I can hike and do not have to take a forced zero day, waiting for equipment.
Sculler and Mr. Burns are slack-packing, towards the hostel, so I should see them today.
I still need to repack food and make other preparations, so I am not on The Trail until 10AM, very late for me. A long section of climb seems to go straight up the mountain with no switchbacks, then advances to boulder hopping. The trees along the trail seem tightly packed, with no flat spots anywhere. Gradually we transition to alpine growth. Even surrounded by trees, the cool breezes become cold winds. I see southbounders coming down bundled in long pants and jackets.
Fungi
I meet Sculler, who described how she wasn’t prepared for cold with clothing near the top and Fat Chap, the owner of Hikers Welcome Hostel, literally gave her the shirt off his back.
Sculler
I reminded her of her comment in the morning about bending trekking poles when the tips get stuck in the ground. I said it was the hiking equivalent of “crabbing”, which she appreciated since she coaches crew.
Near the summit I am surrounded on both sides of the trail by a windbreak of short trees. Here I meet Mr Burns slack-packing, then I reach the treeline, and the wind is fierce, making me thankful my wind shirt works so effectively.
A somewhat rocky trail
On and up to the summit, where a few rocks are piles as windbreaks. Some day hikers, including children, are huddled in the sheltering stone, under-dressed for the conditions.
Leaving treeline to Mt Moosilauke
Summit
The trail descends over large rocks, difficult and slow to traverse. I arrive at Beaver Brook Shelter at 4PM, too early to stop under normal circumstances, but the next shelter is just too far away to reach in daylight, nine miles away.
The shelter is already full! I put up my tent on a nearby tiny platform. Like others, I eat early, put on warmest clothes, and snuggle in.
Advice I hear for the Whites is “don’t rush it.” Still, I hope to hike a little longer tomorrow. The fewer shelters and approved tent sites mean more people have to stop early, unless they plan and execute carefully, and the weather cooperates.
July 26, Thursday, Beaver Brook Shelter to Kinsman Pond Shelter, 13.0
Leaving Beaver Brook Shelter, I have a long rock-hop descent down to Kinsmans’s Notch, then a still climb to Mount Wolf and down. At various times pass or am passed by Fetch & Tipsy, and another couple.
After water and short lunch break at Eliza Brook Shelter, start climb to Kinsman Ridge. Imagine a bouldering gym two thousand feet high, and narrow. Finally I put away my poles and adopt three-point climbing style. It just keeps going… Sky is overcast but does not rain. Imagine if it did!
Eliza Brook Shelter
I get to the ridge around 4PM, but no view, completely clouded in. Oh well, I do not require a view each day in the Whites.
I see a southbounder headed the other way and am tempted to warn her: do not start this treacherous descent so late in the day, when you are tired and might make mistakes. I am reminded of a hiker who heard that all the Whites were designed for northbound hiking except for the first one we hit, Moosilauke.
Another tricky careful-I-might-die-or-be-injured-if-I-mess-up descent, but not too bad, and finally limp in to Kinsman Pond Shelter six-ish.
Also joining me in the shelter are Fetch & Tipsy, and another couple. F & T had inquired about work-for-stay option for the shelter, which I had assumed was only an option for huts. They decided against, since there were two hours of work in the morning, when they planned to start early hiking.
As we sat around and talked about the huge climb we had just done, I worked on repairing my pack, where the seam split in a couple of places. Fetch & Tipsy were planning on resupplying in Lincoln tomorrow.
I survived the day, with another planned tomorrow just as challenging.
July 27, Friday, Kinsman Pond Shelter to Garfield Ridge Shelter, 15.1
Tonight I am in Garfield Ridge Shelter with Dos (started February 28), Achy Breaky (from Germany) and Fish Man (section hiker day 9, of last section to Katahdin). Also met Magpie, thru-hiker who is in hammock and skipping shelter and tent sites.
Started early at Kinsman Pond Shelter because I knew I had a long day: 15.3 miles and a lot of elevation change. Got to my first AMC hut, Lonesome Lake Hut, around 8AM. Too early to beg for breakfast leftovers. Following down the brook for a mile, I startle a moose in the stream, who wheels around and dances up the opposite bank on those thin spindly legs. I was so happy at seeing this unexpected creature that I teared up a little.
Lonesome Lake Hut
Hut interior
Lonesome Lake
Down to the highway, Fetch & Tipsy would go into Lincoln for supplies. Past Franconia Notch and back up another 2400 feet to a tent-site with good water. Then an extended climb, though not as bad as yesterday, to past five thousand feet elevation, finally along the long Franconia Ridge. The weather had been overcast as usual, but cleared up just as I got onto the ridge above treeline. I walked over a mile along ridge with stunning views 360 degrees. I and all others hikers nearby ambled along the ridge, in no hurry for it to end. In the middle I met Magpie, and she commented how we both had giant smiles on our faces.
Franconia Ridge
Another view of Franconia Ridge
Finally down off ridge, around 4PM, and difficult climb up and down Mount Garfield, and down to Garfield Ridge Shelter by 7PM. Empty tent-sites, unusual for a Friday.
Long tough walking day, with big rewards.
July 28, Saturday, Garfield Ridge Shelter to Ethan Pond Shelter, 14.5
I am in a totally full shelter at Ethan Pond, just before Crawford Notch. Along with Achey Breaky I met yesterday, is Machine, who started in late April and is very fast. He says doing the AT fast is fun, but he would also like to redo AT at a regular pace. Also met Luc, who is French and section hiking for several days to see if he wants to do the entire AT. After today’s rain, he does not. there is also a family with sketchy tent who already went to sleep, who decided to stay in shelter.
I got up not quite so early, because I had a plan. The day starts out overcast like it has been for several days. Lots of rock-hopping after starting from Garfield Ridge Shelter. White Mountain trail builders love using rock. If I do not write otherwise and am not on top of a beautiful ridge, I am rock-hopping.
Rock hopping in the Whites
I get to Galehead Hut at 9AM, long after breakfast is finished, and as I was coached to do, asked if there were leftovers they need help disposing of. The hut staff have to cart leftovers down the mountain on their backs, so better to use thru-hikers’ indomitable hunger and feed the leftovers to them. The hut staff person was very nice, and offered me 3/4 liter of oatmeal in a huge mixing bowl, and said I was welcome to a large chunk of crumb cake as well (sold for $1.00 to rich vacationing day hikers). He also helped me make a reservation at Highland Center at Crawford Notch, where I also have a food drop. Unlike the huts, I can get a hot shower there, and it is cheaper than list price at the huts since I am staying in the bunkhouse.
On to a climb to almost 5000 feet at Twin Mountain, where I just missed a clear view by a minute. Magpie was also there, and mentioned she just arranged to meet a friend who lives in New Hampshire at Zealand Falls Hut in the afternoon. She presses on to make her rendezvous, since distances are hard to estimate with hiking times in the Whites. I linger and appreciate the view.
Down, rock-hopping, clouds darkening, about thirty minutes before the hut, it starts sprinkling, then harder and I have to put on a raincoat. Finally reach shelter at 3PM amidst a buzz of activity, as hikers mill around and put on rain gear and go on their day hikes.
A hut volunteer asks me if I was staying at the hut and was interested in work-for-stay. I reply I was moving on to next campsite, and he advised it was very flat trail for five miles, easy to get to. Indeed, it was like a trail in Maryland (like they brought in a trail designer who knows more tricks than throwing more rocks on the trail).
Downpour starts on the flat stretch; luckily there is room in Ethan Pond Shelter so I do not have to pitch a tent in the rain. Achy arrives soon afterwards. Luc was already here. We are not permitted to cook near shelter, for bear control, and have to go to dining fly, where a large group is playing gin rummy.
Now, having journaled, will snuggle in and listen to rain dropping on the metal roof through the night.
July 29, Sunday, Ethan Pond Shelter to Crawford Notch AMC Highland Center, 2.9
The rain seemed to come down all night at Ethan Pond Shelter, and I had no reason to leaver early. Finally could not lie still any longer, so left at 7AM, with Machine getting ready soon after. Easy trail down.
Shortly before getting to highway to turn off for Highland Center is a small parking area, and Rock Dancer is parked next to his tarp, giving out trail magic. I stop and have a soda and munchies, joined by Machine and Keeper and his young dog Duke. (I saw Keeper back at Glencliff: He has a cap that reads “USA: Back to Back Winner of World Wars”.
Rock Dancer offers to give me a ride if I have trouble with hitching, but for once I have no trouble. A dad with two young daughters and older son give me a ride in their extended pickup. They are out camping, and headed to Highland Center anyway to go to the playground.
Highland Mountain Playscape at ACM Highland Center
Check-in is not until noon-1PM, so I hang around in the lodge and catch up on e-mails, journal, etc. I have a room reserved in the bunkhouse, less expensive than the main lodge.
AMC Highland Center
Shapleigh Bunkhouse at Highland Center
My food package addressed to Highland Center did not arrive, assumed lost. I will need to buy food. I overheard Dos needing a ride to the gas station to resupply, so I asked to tag along.
One of the AMC staffers helped Dos find a ride, which helped change her opinion of AMC somewhat. She had a bad experience last night doing work-for-stay at a hut, where the thru-hikers were set out on the porch wile the paying customers ate; it felt very divided-classes to her. Anyway, a desk staffer identified another bunkhouse guest who was willing to give us a ride to a convenience store.
Mount Washington Hotel, viewed from grocery run
I am not used to estimating food at short-term resupply stops (since I usually pre-package and mail all my food) and might not have made optimal choices. Live and Learn. On or way back, the driver pulled over when he spotted a bear. then Dos and I see it, and he let us look through binoculars. Yeah!
After a pint of ice cream from the gas station and a large cookie, I suddenly did not feel well. Exploded both ends. Assume stomach flu. I went to the lodge office to see if I could get a private room so as to not disturb or infect other hikers, but nothing was available. I was able to move into the smaller back room of the bunkhouse, with an older couple sharing with me, and a separate bathroom, and I warned all hikers present of my malady.
Felt crummy, absolutely exhausted, and fell asleep listening to podcasts.
July 30, Monday, AMC Highland Center zero day
I still feel rotten, so arrange for another day at Shapleigh Bunkhouse at Highland Center.
Though having an upset tummy, I still have hiker hunger, so had breakfast (included with room) but did not take full advantage of the all-you-can-eat part.
Then napped, rested on bunk, recharged electronics, made minor repairs, updated e-mail and blogs, and rested some more.
Sunset at Highland Center
A forced zero after a nero is NOT my idea on how to spend the day. I imagine trail friends two or three days ahead getting totally out of reach. Oh well, rest, rest, rest, …
July 31, Tuesday, Crawford Notch to RMC Gray Knob Cabin, 17.3
Perhaps I wake up feeling not one hundred per cent, but eighty per cent is OK. I just hope I do not end up getting carried down the mountain puking (or worse).
I have another AYCE breakfast without the AYCE part. Sadly, breakfast begins at 6:30AM, so allowing a half-hour to cram in food puts me behind my favorite starting time. But the day starts with clear skies. I take Crawford Path from Highland Center, which soon rejoins the AT.
The climb to Mount Franklin was not tough. Crawford Path was a bridal path at one point, so no hand-over-hand work was needed.
Crawford Path history
Lake of the Clouds was serene, and the hut provided water. I did not ask for leftovers because of the big breakfast earlier.
Lake of the Clouds
Lake of the Clouds Hut
As we leave sub-alpine and go above treeline, more hikers become visible at greater distances.
Above treeline, ascending to Mount Washington
We can see Mount Washington summit as we hike through the morning. I reach the summit around 12:30, visit the snack bar. I get chocolate milk and Doritos, and notice at a nearby table with thru-hikers that each one gets a chocolate milk and one gets double.
On summit of Mount Washington
Out again to appreciate the view, and enjoy the crowds from the cog railroad and passenger cars, and hiking groups. I resume hiking after only thirty minutes break, hoping there is some way of getting beyond Madison Spring Hut for the night. I would really prefer not negotiating a hut stay if possible.
Cog railway
The way down crosses the cog railway, and I get a good view as one goes by. Then onto scree for most of the afternoon. (Maybe I am using the term wrong, because it is not from a rock fall.) We hike on vast fields of jagged boulders on several peaks. This really slows down my pace to around one mile/hour.
Approaching train on cog railway
Jagged rocks make a challenging hike.
It looks like I would get to Madison Springs Hut at 5PM, after thru-hikers would have grabbed any work-for-stay slots. I might have negotiated a discount, but did not want to risk it. The Valley Way Tentsite alternative looks like a steep thousand foot climb down at the end of the day.
Instead, I turn off one mile prior to the hut to walk a little over a mile to Gray Knob Cabin, run by the Randolph Mountain Club. I think Companion is wrong on distance and elevation; I seem to go down further than estimated. Finally arrive at a large two-story cabin with a reclusive caretaker, who did not expect any visitors. Fetched water (Companion seemed wrong on distance to spring) Ate quick dinner, and get to enjoy the entire upper floor to myself tonight.
View near RMC cabin
Gotta hike back up again in the morning.
August 1, Wednesday, RMC Gray Knob Cabin to Pinkham Notch for White Mountain Hostel in Gorham, 8.7
Upon reflection the RMC cabin choice is not one most hikers would make, since they want to avoid any fee. Most would take chance with huts. I am unduly cautious with uncertainty of dealing with AMC huts.
Anyway, I hike back to The Trail and arrive at Madison Spring Hut at 8:30 for water, then up Mount Madison. I quickly put away trekking poles, because this is another scree field with three-point climbing. Lots of day hikers from the hut are climbing just behind me.
Approaching Madison Spring Hut
From the summit of this last White Mountain above tree-line, you can see several smaller peaks all the way down to Pinkham Notch, and see hikers from far away. Suddenly a pair way in the distance hiking towards me yell “Sagebrush!” It is Progress & Joiner!! They came down with same symptoms as me, and report knowing other hikers experiencing the same. Their location was less convenient than mine; Lake of the Clouds Hut. So, weak, they hike to Mount Washington and bum a ride down by car, and make their way to White Mountain Hostel in Gorham. Today they were making up the section they missed by hiking the other direction to Mount Washington Summit and getting a ride down to hostel again.
Joiner and Progress on Mount Madison
Energized by meeting trail friends, I continue down. I look forward to reaching Pinkham Notch by midday for a snack at the visitor’s center, and I can see it in the distance, so I should be able to reach that. I should have looked at Companion more closely. At 2:30PM I still have a way to go, when I meet Skunk Ape, who I met at the hostel at Harpers Ferry on June 54, and introduce myself. Soon a really hard downpour drenches me, sadly several minutes from the visitor center.
Finally there, I seek refuge in the cafeteria and find Skunk Ape, Little Pot (German), and sobo Blueberry. The rain does not let up anytime soon, so I will have trouble finding a place for the night. The thru-hikers mention getting a shuttle to nearby Gorham, which would not have occurred to me. Little Pot already has a spot reserved at White Mountain Lodge hostel, where Progress and Joiner would likely be tonight. and the shuttle would arrive in an hour. I acquire quarters for the pay phone and make a call.
Skunk Ape at Pinkham Notch visitor center
Skunk Ape joins us in the shuttle, but he is going to a different hostel in town. By the time we get clothes into laundry and then shower, most of the hostel occupants have already left for a shuttle to a restaurant. I order pizza take-out, and catch up with Progress & Joiner, and chat with Little Pot… and she shows me her pot.
White Mountain Lodge & Hostel
August 2, Thursday, Pinkham Notch to Imp Shelter, 13.1
When I heard breakfast at White Mountain Lodge hostel consisted of a burrito, I imagined a small microwavable yuchhy thing. Instead, we were treated to fresh homemade breakfast burritos, freshly baked blueberry muffins, and all the oatmeal you might want. Very nicely done, served whenever a hiker was up and ready for it.
Trail completion cards at hostel
The shuttle back to Pinkham Notch was scheduled for 7:30AM, so I was back on the Trail by 8AM.
Also starting there from the hostel was Pile o’ Dudes: Johnny Rocket, Knief, Messenger, Bod Bin, Metric (a different Metric) and Blue Skies. Their trail conversation tends toward Star Wars trivia, gamer nerdism, etc. Very funny dudes. They say when they get to shelter they like to play their own Dungeons&Dragons type game. They expressed a keen interest today in finally meeting Lady Forward today. Their rendition of “Oh Canada” last night was a riot.
2500 foot climb to Wildcat Mountain right off, then steep descent with some wet rocks to Carter Notch. The skies darkened, and I got a little rain just before stopping at Carter Hut around 2PM for water and break. The caretaker of this small, oldest, and last hut was baking bread and cooking dinner, while answered my questions about the trail ahead.
Pinkham Notch from Wildcat Mountain
Carter Notch Hut
Taking a chance on weather, I head out, destination Imp Shelter, expecting a late arrival, 7PM or later. Somehow I get energy and rhythm and put in a good hike, up Carter Dome and down Zeta Pass (ouch), up Carter Mountains and finally down to the shelter. The weather cleared and changed several times, but somehow did not rain. Had not had a chance to really stretch legs and hike full speed for a few days, and there were places on the Carter peaks where I could zoom along.
Carter Dome
Arrived at shelter, tired but satisfied, at 7:30AM, later joined by Butcher and Oak, thru-hikers starting in late April (which means they be fast).
This might be my last AMC shelter. I am not entirely comfortable with the AMC hut system, so will be glad to get to Maine.
August 3, Friday, Imp Shelter to Trident Col Tentsite, 14.9
From Imp Shelter, I needed to hike eight miles to US2, right at White Mountain Hostel. I knew they had a shuttle leaving for town and the post office at 10:30AM, but I could not get there in time at White Mountain hiking speed. I would need to hitch-hike four miles to town.
Started a thousand foot climb to Mount Moriah, with plenty of bare rock climbing. Three thousand foot descent had my left knee complaining about yesterday’s downward climb. Along Rattle River was a nice easy downward sloping smooth trail, allowing downhill-lope gait not used much in New Hampshire.
Down near the intersection to the highway, I meet a father saying goodbye to three sons heading up the trail. He asked me about my AT trip, and when I mentioned needing to hitch to Gorham, he offered to give me a ride. He also offered to return me to the trailhead when I was finished, since He did not have any obligations all day. I suggested we meet at pizza place across road from post office at 2PM (Mr. Pizza) What luck for me to get a ride.
The post office had my food package, which was a relief. After processing food and supplies I went to Mr. Pizza for meatball sub and shake. I had weighed myself at hostel yesterday and was down to 148 pounds, down from normal 155, so need to work on eating more in towns, when I do not have to carry food. I also updated journal while eating, and looked at e-mails. Later I walked to library for faster reliable wifi and downloaded podcasts and finished e-mail. I returned to Mr. Pizza at 1:50PM and waited until 2:25PM, but ride back was a no-show.
I walked to edge of town and stuck out my thumb. I was picked up by an eccentric lady who brought me back to her stealth hostel, where she picks up four hikers, before stopping at trailhead.
Before starting hike stop by White Mountain Hostel and leave some excess supplies in hiker box. Also get my picture taken. They forgot to take it yesterday and asked me to stop by today to get photographed.
The Trail starts with a road walk past a small hydroelectric generation building and spillway, then up a thousand(?) foot climb on a path that is pleasant, not too rocky, not too steep, more like Maryland instead of New Hampshire except for the large elevation change. A brief shower made the rock climbing on the next mountain more challenging.
Arrived at Trident Col Tentsite, empty, around 7PM, but soon files up. The tent site next to me is taken by a young woman section hiking New Hampshire and Maine on weekends, who lives in Montreal. We listen as a pack of coyotes with pups sets off a terrific series of howls and yips.
Echoes of home.
August 4, Saturday, Trident Col Tentsite to Full Goose Shelter ME, 14.5
From Trident Col Tentsite I spend much longer in the morning than expected in grinding up and down elevation changes not reflected in Companion, and a climb up Mount Success for one last finale for New Hampshire before crossing into Maine.
Last state line of the trip
For the afternoon I climb Goose Eye Mountain, following along a soft of ridge line, with lots of balds, but also with jaggies, so you come to places where you put away your trekking poles, rock climb down forty feet, rock climb back up fifty feet, then resume along ridgeline. My energy level is somehow lower today, so lots of podcasts help in the afternoon.
I finally arrive at Full Goose Shelter around 7PM and find all tent sites full. Of course, it it a weekend, with a large group. The shelter initially looks full but makes room for me. Staying there are Expeditor & Instigator, an older thru-hiker couple, with very similar equipment to mine: other Gossamer Gear packs, Caldera stove, and bubble-wrap insulation for cooking. Hope to meet them on The Trail and talk more.
Also see Magpie, who I haven’t seen in a while, who usually hammocks and does so again tonight. Also see the young woman from Montreal, who is quite a fast hiker for sectioning on weekends. Also there is Grok (Heinlein literary reference I recognize!)
So how do I get to Andover for a nice nero, and how do I get a ride into Andover, eight miles from trail, with infrequent traffic for a difficult hitch? Sleep on it.
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