Bannock Lake Fire Detour

PCT 2018 Day 105, August 5, Sunday

Start mile 2527.4, creek near campsite

End mile 2549.3, then mile 9 of 11 of Hart Lyman Trail

Miles walked: 30.9

Descending down to walk along the Suiattle River, I pass a grove of the largest trees on the PCT. A climb from 2.5k to 6k brings Suiattle Pass, and views of more glaciers. The trail diversion due to wildfire is well-marked. Southbounders tell me the route is clear and easy to follow. The steep climb to Cloudy Pass reminds me that other trails are not built with the limited grade specifications of the PCT. This is what toilet facilities look like at many of the recent lakes. The trail goes by Lyman Lake and then Hart Lake, both with many campers. Blueberries, or huckleberries, are at peak ripeness just beyond Hart Lake, and yon can reach your hand out and grab several at a time while passing. I walked until dark closer to Holden Village, a Lutheran Camp that southbounders tell me is a nice place to stop and have a meal, or perhaps more. Breakfast is from 7 to 9, and I would not like to be late.

Before today, approaching southbounders did not know much about fire diversions, having missed them. Now they offer advice. One that impressed me warned me that the next part of the Bannock Lake Fire detour, 11 Mile Creek Trail and Company Creek Trail, is 17 very hard miles, and that the final descent to Stehekin is treacherous, and that he would not hike it in the direction I am going. He suggests an alternative, that I will explore more at Holden.

Alpine Challenge

PCT 2018 Day 104, August 4, Saturday

Start mile 2502.2

End mile 2527.4, creek near campsite

Miles walked: 25.2

Well now, which hiker broke the bridge? We still use it to get across. The trail today seems to be an obstacle course, with sections of thick overgrown plants, huge logs to climb over or under, and wet trails. And the elevation goes from 5.5k down to 4k, up to 6.5k, down to 3.3k, and back finally to 6k. I forgot to mention the alpine ecosystem at high altitudes, seen for several days now, thick with wild#lowers and plants unfamiliar to us lowlanders. The views of green mountains and glacier mountains today rewards the long climbs. Mica Lake is still partially iced over, but I saw some campers thinking about a swim. After climbing way down to Milk Creek and way up again, I get water at a creek and stop at a nearby campsite, with a view of Kennedy Peak and its glaciers. Camp is early because a thunderstorm threatens, with many flashes. The rain is mild, but will stay on the bushes and make tomorrow morning wet.

Today I struggled with an ingrown toenail, from a couple of days of wet-feet hikes and a stubbed toe. Finally, after several attempts, in early afternoon I managed to bandage the foot in such a way that it did not hurt every other step. That cost me some miles today.

For several mornings I have greeted Hot Sauce as he zooms by. He hikes faster, and is doing more miles each day, but we manage to overlap, and I start early and pass his tent, and then he catches up later, and we chat before he goes past. After today’s low miles, I may not see him to discuss the possible re-route of the PCT that we hit tomorrow at Suiattle Pass, caused by the Bannock Lakes Fire.

Glacier Peak Wilderness

PCT 2018 Day 103, August 3, Friday Start mile 2474.4, campsite

End mile 2502.2

Miles walked: 27.8

After raining the previous night, today is foggy, in clouds, sometimes with a fine mist rain. Midday the fog lifts and sun peeps through, but soon the fog returns. The day is cold, refreshing for hiking, and no mosquitos are about. With so much fog, photos are not so good today. At the end of the day I am climbing the side of a steep ridge, up to elevation 6.5k, in white-out conditions, racing to get down to 5.5k where it will not be such a cold night, and lose the light before reaching my planned campsite.

Finished audiobook Heidi, by Johanna Spyri, read by Kara Shallenberg.