Zero Independence

PCT 2018 Day 35, May 27, Sunday.

Start town of Independence

End Independence

Miles walked: ZERO

While taking a rest day, I do the routine preparations like purchasing and preparing hiking meals using the two convenience stores in town ($$), eating lots of town food, and researching the trail ahead. And the Eastern California Museum a couple of blocks away had good exhibits, particularly the Manzanar internment camp of USA citizens of Japanese background.

A Native American basket exhibit was also worth seeing.

And details of the Owens Valley project to bring water all the way to Los Angeles, part of the plot of the movie Chinatown, should be seen.

Outdoor mechanical artifacts, including some used on the water project, are out back.

Later I took a self-guided walking tour of town. Some giant Sequoias grow here. This one is decorated with lights for the holiday season.

A row of sycamores gives shade to the road back to the trailhead,

Rows of trees along the road are so pleasant, don’t you think?

Kearsarge Pass

PCT 2018 Day 34, May 26, Saturday.

Start mile 778.7, near campsites, less than one mile from Forester Pass, elevation 12.3k.

End mile 788.5, then take the Bullfrog Lake Trail and Kearsarge Trail 7.6 miles to Onion Valley Trailhead and hitch 11 miles to Independence

Miles walked: 17.4

Several people started up Forester Pass before me in the morning, even though I camped closest. One couple, camped 5 miles away, got up at 3:30AM to get to the pass while the snow was still hard. I was glad to follow some fresh footprints.

Going down Kings Canyon was several miles of snow, and post-holing started relatively early in some spots, even as early as 9AM, though breaking through the snow crust was rare, it did happen. Kings Canyon offered terrific views on descending.

Further down the canyon, past the snow, the need for food resupply required that I exit the PCT, and climb Kearsarge Trail from 10.8k elevation up to Kearsarge Pass at 11.8k.

Then an infinite set of switchbacks brings me down to Onion Valley Trailhead at 9.2k.

The trail was very popular with day-hikers. On the way down I met Groundhog and MouseTrap, and we decided to stay at bunkhouse at Courthouse Motel. I had called on the way down, and they had space for hikers on this busy Memorial Day weekend.

I got a ride down with Skidmark and Chief, with their parents, who had left the trail temporarily to stash food in a bear box at the trailhead, and then would return hiking at Kennedy Meadows. They quizzed me on trail conditions at each pass, all the way down to the town of Independence.

Finished audiobook The Girl On the Boat, by P G Wodehouse

Almost Forester Pass

PCT 2018 Day 33, May 25, Friday.

Start campsites at Rock Creek, mile 760.5, elevation 9.5k

End mile 778.7, near campsites, less than one mile from Forester Pass, elevation 12.3k.

Miles walked: 18.2

The trail is often through boulder fields, taking on a rugged character. The John Muir Trail joins the PCT. Also, a side trail leads to Mount Whitney, which many PCT hikers do as a day-hike, leaving much of their gear in a bear box. The water at Tyndal Creek ford was running fast. The water near the trail appeared more than waist deep, but going upstream a large flat rock creek-bed caused the water to run fast but shallow, a good crossing point. Climbing steadily towards Forester Pass, more snow appears. Fewer footprints are visible than I expected. Passing many high snowy peaks each day, I give thanks for the ones we bypass, as well as those we climb. I reach the final mile ascent of Forester at 4PM, but this is not enough time to climb up and get back down, and snow conditions in late afternoon are not recommended for the climb. After the pass you would be post-holing (suddenly breaking through the surface of the snow) for miles before reaching a suitable campsite.

I find a flat boulder and pitch the tent. With low wind, and sun reflected off snow, the evening is surprisingly warm and pleasant, having dinner on my little island.

Later a few hikers pitch tents on snow a hundred yards away, all ready for the pass in the early morning.