Sagebrush Trails

July 22, Sunday, Happy Hill Shelter to Norwich VT trail angel home, 4.3

Although I expected an easy near-zero day, I started early to get the most out of it. A gentle mostly-downhill hike in cool air among tall trees, leaving from Happy Hill Shelter, I arrive in 2.5 hours to Norwich, Vermont, along a quiet street where I spy trail magic (a hiker exchange box) then trail magic again: nut bread and watermelon. Betsy Maislen, trail angel, invites me to sleep over at her house when I get done in town! I decline politely, and a little voice in my head reminds me that I decline help too quickly. She says I am about to hit longest stretch of road-hike on the AT.

Bridge over Connecticut River, viewed from NH side

Piano for public art project

A lovely small Vermont town is bounded by a river and bridge, at the end of which is New Hampshire… and a piano. The piano on the sidewalk is part of an art project where anyone is encouraged to play. I pull off into a riverside park for an important cell phone update with “Base Support”, then continue, near a large group of nobo hikers, into Hanover, New Hampshire. Past a bit of Dartmouth and into the student-ish retail part of Main Street. Hiker word-of-mouth told of several freebies to be had in town, so I search around, aided by a local guide the trail angel Betsy had handed me earlier.

Downtown Hanover

But first I called Betsy to see if I could still take her up on her generous officer, and she graciously assented. See, I eventually learn… slowly. Then I go to Bagel Basement for a free Everything Bagel with cream cheese, toasted just right. At a bench near the outfitters I see Willy from Vermont and asked him to pass on greetings to Peppaboy. Then I went by CVS for compression socks (on the recommendation of family for my swollen foot issue) and see Payman and Two Step. We chatted, and they are staying the night in a motel to wait for shoes for her.

Thank you Bagel Basement

I go to the library, closed until later, for wifi and charge. I need to get close to the entrance for signal, so a kind librarian lets me into the lobby and even opens a door so I get air conditioning– even though the library is not open yet.

I try to go to Lou’s Restaurant and Bakery, but it is way too popular; I try another couple of times during the day. Ramunto’s gave me a free slice of cheese pizza, and I also order a drink. Sculler is there, so we chat over ‘za. Then it’s over to Mountain Goat Outfitters for a free Snickers bar.

Enough food! Time to walk around Dartmouth, and I also scout the AT trail, leading out of town, so I have an easy time tomorrow after post office. I waste some time walking around Dartmouth athletic buildings before discovering the main campus and quad. Based on a hiker’s advice, I go to the (Howell?) Art Museum, which is small but excellent. The special exhibit on photos from a Vermont quarry are mind-blowing. The section on European post-Renaissance art had a quality of high color contrast that was unusual, but I don’t know what I’m talking about.

Baker Library tower, Dartmouth

The Quad

Hood Museum of Art

Around 3:30PM I call the Maislen-Schults to say I am done with town, and will accept a ride or walk as they prefer. Gray Beard picks me up at Hanover Inn, and I return to their home to see gear for several other hikers. Soon I have a shower, “town clothes”, laundry, and chocolate chip cookies to the precise degree of softness while being firm and not too crisp.

In a burst of energy Betsy makes dinner for three, including fresh sweet corn from the local farm stand, pasta salad, and bok choy. Gray Beard arrives and we eat out on the porch, looking for hummingbirds. Yes, there is dessert. Betsy assures me her energy burst is normal, and she is not safe with caffeine.

Trail angels Maislen & Schults

The Runaway Train hiking group also show, and join me sleeping in the basement.

July 23, Monday, Norwich to primitive camp two miles short of Firewarden’s Cabin, 22.9

Betsy drives me into Hanover around 6:30AM and drops me off at the post office. First I go to Cafe/Bakery, for once not crowded, and order a ridiculously huge “hiker breakfast”. On to post office at 7AM to get my packages. Companion was right: the post office lobby is not open but the clerk will give you packages by 7AM, a big help to hikers who like to stat early. Still it takes a while to repack food and mail letters, so I am on the trail at 8AM.

Someone in the cafe had mentioned a big rain last night. I do not see evidence on The Trail– must have missed this area.

New Hampshire has plenty of gnats, but not the advanced insect squadrons in first part of Vermont.

Too much city food, so I’m a little slow. Lots of up and down, not too technical yet, few views. Water is dry at most of the shelters. I am able to get a liter at a trail magic road crossing from an almost empty container. A sobo tells me about the “Ice Cream Man” who gives out water and an ice cream to hikers, and lets them rest and talk on his porch.

Bill Ackerly, the Ice Cream Man

I get to Trapper John Shelter around 4:30. Could call it an early day, but decide to go down to the Ice Cream Man house. About ten hikers are on the porch, including Sticks & Metric. I talk with Bill(?), a real character. Sticks & Metric are going another ten miles to camp near a brook– either they will be fast or night-hike.

I hope to get to Firewarden’s Cabin before dark, but the three-thousand foot altitude climb is tough, and I fall short by a couple of miles. I pitch a tent, string a bear line, and eat a no-cook meal, just before the rain starts.

Maybe the rain sounds harder in my tent-tarp because the tent wall is so close to my ears, but it had to be a huge downpour that lasted hours. I got some splash-back around the edges, but remained basically dry and warm. This was the toughest test yet of my shelter.

July 24, Tuesday, two miles below Firewarden’s cabin to Glencliff Hikers Welcome Hostel, 21.9

I hiked the remaining couple of miles to the cabin on now-treacherous slanted wet rock. No water, and now view because of fog. I am told I could see the Whites from here on a clear day. The climb down is much gentler than the way up. Rain threatens, and I am not quite able to make it to Hexacube Shelter before a downpour hits. a sobo couple (rare so far) Driver and Pitstop are there, and shortly move on when the rain abates. I cook a dinner meal to warm up, then start the big climb up Mount Cube with lots of flat rock on top and some views.

Firetower on Smarts Mountain Summit

The afternoon is occupied with up-and-down hiking that can wear down a hiker.

The hostel at Glencliff could be reached if I make a big push. I just have to watch out for wet rocks, which could cause a fall. I cut my shin on one fall, but nothing permanently damaged.

Around 6:30PM I meet some sobos who ask where I’m heading and I mention the hostel, but worry I might get in too late for check-in. They came from there and say lights-out is 10PM, so I should get there in time. I turn on the speed and arrive at the hostel at 8PM. Quickly I am registered, catch a van ride into Warren for sundries, then shower.Oh, and Sculler is here! Most of my other trail-buddies are a day to several days ahead of me, estimated from shelter journals. I miss their advice and knowledge, because I will need it for the Whites.

Hikers Welcome Hostel, Glencliff

July 25, Wednesday, Glencliff to Beaver Brook Shelter, 8.0

The Glencliff NH post office opens at 7AM, which is hiker friendly. I get two packages (food, trekking pole replacement) but expect two more: warm clothing and replacement shoes. I return to mail old poles and letters and ask when today’s packages arrive, and my warm clothes box just arrived! Now I can hike and do not have to take a forced zero day, waiting for equipment.

Sculler and Mr. Burns are slack-packing, towards the hostel, so I should see them today.

I still need to repack food and make other preparations, so I am not on The Trail until 10AM, very late for me. A long section of climb seems to go straight up the mountain with no switchbacks, then advances to boulder hopping. The trees along the trail seem tightly packed, with no flat spots anywhere. Gradually we transition to alpine growth. Even surrounded by trees, the cool breezes become cold winds. I see southbounders coming down bundled in long pants and jackets.

Fungi

I meet Sculler, who described how she wasn’t prepared for cold with clothing near the top and Fat Chap, the owner of Hikers Welcome Hostel, literally gave her the shirt off his back.

Sculler

I reminded her of her comment in the morning about bending trekking poles when the tips get stuck in the ground. I said it was the hiking equivalent of “crabbing”, which she appreciated since she coaches crew.

Near the summit I am surrounded on both sides of the trail by a windbreak of short trees. Here I meet Mr Burns slack-packing, then I reach the treeline, and the wind is fierce, making me thankful my wind shirt works so effectively.

A somewhat rocky trail

On and up to the summit, where a few rocks are piles as windbreaks. Some day hikers, including children, are huddled in the sheltering stone, under-dressed for the conditions.

Leaving treeline to Mt Moosilauke

Summit

The trail descends over large rocks, difficult and slow to traverse. I arrive at Beaver Brook Shelter at 4PM, too early to stop under normal circumstances, but the next shelter is just too far away to reach in daylight, nine miles away.

The shelter is already full! I put up my tent on a nearby tiny platform. Like others, I eat early, put on warmest clothes, and snuggle in.

Advice I hear for the Whites is “don’t rush it.” Still, I hope to hike a little longer tomorrow. The fewer shelters and approved tent sites mean more people have to stop early, unless they plan and execute carefully, and the weather cooperates.

July 26, Thursday, Beaver Brook Shelter to Kinsman Pond Shelter, 13.0

Leaving Beaver Brook Shelter, I have a long rock-hop descent down to Kinsmans’s Notch, then a still climb to Mount Wolf and down. At various times pass or am passed by Fetch & Tipsy, and another couple.

After water and short lunch break at Eliza Brook Shelter, start climb to Kinsman Ridge. Imagine a bouldering gym two thousand feet high, and narrow. Finally I put away my poles and adopt three-point climbing style. It just keeps going… Sky is overcast but does not rain. Imagine if it did!

Eliza Brook Shelter

I get to the ridge around 4PM, but no view, completely clouded in. Oh well, I do not require a view each day in the Whites.

I see a southbounder headed the other way and am tempted to warn her: do not start this treacherous descent so late in the day, when you are tired and might make mistakes. I am reminded of a hiker who heard that all the Whites were designed for northbound hiking except for the first one we hit, Moosilauke.

Another tricky careful-I-might-die-or-be-injured-if-I-mess-up descent, but not too bad, and finally limp in to Kinsman Pond Shelter six-ish.

Also joining me in the shelter are Fetch & Tipsy, and another couple. F & T had inquired about work-for-stay option for the shelter, which I had assumed was only an option for huts. They decided against, since there were two hours of work in the morning, when they planned to start early hiking.

As we sat around and talked about the huge climb we had just done, I worked on repairing my pack, where the seam split in a couple of places. Fetch & Tipsy were planning on resupplying in Lincoln tomorrow.

I survived the day, with another planned tomorrow just as challenging.

July 27, Friday, Kinsman Pond Shelter to Garfield Ridge Shelter, 15.1

Tonight I am in Garfield Ridge Shelter with Dos (started February 28), Achy Breaky (from Germany) and Fish Man (section hiker day 9, of last section to Katahdin). Also met Magpie, thru-hiker who is in hammock and skipping shelter and tent sites.

Started early at Kinsman Pond Shelter because I knew I had a long day: 15.3 miles and a lot of elevation change. Got to my first AMC hut, Lonesome Lake Hut, around 8AM. Too early to beg for breakfast leftovers. Following down the brook for a mile, I startle a moose in the stream, who wheels around and dances up the opposite bank on those thin spindly legs. I was so happy at seeing this unexpected creature that I teared up a little.

Lonesome Lake Hut

Hut interior

Lonesome Lake

Down to the highway, Fetch & Tipsy would go into Lincoln for supplies. Past Franconia Notch and back up another 2400 feet to a tent-site with good water. Then an extended climb, though not as bad as yesterday, to past five thousand feet elevation, finally along the long Franconia Ridge. The weather had been overcast as usual, but cleared up just as I got onto the ridge above treeline. I walked over a mile along ridge with stunning views 360 degrees. I and all others hikers nearby ambled along the ridge, in no hurry for it to end. In the middle I met Magpie, and she commented how we both had giant smiles on our faces.

Franconia Ridge

Another view of Franconia Ridge

Finally down off ridge, around 4PM, and difficult climb up and down Mount Garfield, and down to Garfield Ridge Shelter by 7PM. Empty tent-sites, unusual for a Friday.

Long tough walking day, with big rewards.

July 28, Saturday, Garfield Ridge Shelter to Ethan Pond Shelter, 14.5

I am in a totally full shelter at Ethan Pond, just before Crawford Notch. Along with Achey Breaky I met yesterday, is Machine, who started in late April and is very fast. He says doing the AT fast is fun, but he would also like to redo AT at a regular pace. Also met Luc, who is French and section hiking for several days to see if he wants to do the entire AT. After today’s rain, he does not. there is also a family with sketchy tent who already went to sleep, who decided to stay in shelter.

I got up not quite so early, because I had a plan. The day starts out overcast like it has been for several days. Lots of rock-hopping after starting from Garfield Ridge Shelter. White Mountain trail builders love using rock. If I do not write otherwise and am not on top of a beautiful ridge, I am rock-hopping.

Rock hopping in the Whites

I get to Galehead Hut at 9AM, long after breakfast is finished, and as I was coached to do, asked if there were leftovers they need help disposing of. The hut staff have to cart leftovers down the mountain on their backs, so better to use thru-hikers’ indomitable hunger and feed the leftovers to them. The hut staff person was very nice, and offered me 3/4 liter of oatmeal in a huge mixing bowl, and said I was welcome to a large chunk of crumb cake as well (sold for $1.00 to rich vacationing day hikers). He also helped me make a reservation at Highland Center at Crawford Notch, where I also have a food drop. Unlike the huts, I can get a hot shower there, and it is cheaper than list price at the huts since I am staying in the bunkhouse.

On to a climb to almost 5000 feet at Twin Mountain, where I just missed a clear view by a minute. Magpie was also there, and mentioned she just arranged to meet a friend who lives in New Hampshire at Zealand Falls Hut in the afternoon. She presses on to make her rendezvous, since distances are hard to estimate with hiking times in the Whites. I linger and appreciate the view.

Down, rock-hopping, clouds darkening, about thirty minutes before the hut, it starts sprinkling, then harder and I have to put on a raincoat. Finally reach shelter at 3PM amidst a buzz of activity, as hikers mill around and put on rain gear and go on their day hikes.

A hut volunteer asks me if I was staying at the hut and was interested in work-for-stay. I reply I was moving on to next campsite, and he advised it was very flat trail for five miles, easy to get to. Indeed, it was like a trail in Maryland (like they brought in a trail designer who knows more tricks than throwing more rocks on the trail).

Downpour starts on the flat stretch; luckily there is room in Ethan Pond Shelter so I do not have to pitch a tent in the rain. Achy arrives soon afterwards. Luc was already here. We are not permitted to cook near shelter, for bear control, and have to go to dining fly, where a large group is playing gin rummy.

Now, having journaled, will snuggle in and listen to rain dropping on the metal roof through the night.

July 29, Sunday, Ethan Pond Shelter to Crawford Notch AMC Highland Center, 2.9

The rain seemed to come down all night at Ethan Pond Shelter, and I had no reason to leaver early. Finally could not lie still any longer, so left at 7AM, with Machine getting ready soon after. Easy trail down.

Shortly before getting to highway to turn off for Highland Center is a small parking area, and Rock Dancer is parked next to his tarp, giving out trail magic. I stop and have a soda and munchies, joined by Machine and Keeper and his young dog Duke. (I saw Keeper back at Glencliff: He has a cap that reads “USA: Back to Back Winner of World Wars”.

Rock Dancer offers to give me a ride if I have trouble with hitching, but for once I have no trouble. A dad with two young daughters and older son give me a ride in their extended pickup. They are out camping, and headed to Highland Center anyway to go to the playground.

Highland Mountain Playscape at ACM Highland Center

Check-in is not until noon-1PM, so I hang around in the lodge and catch up on e-mails, journal, etc. I have a room reserved in the bunkhouse, less expensive than the main lodge.

AMC Highland Center

Shapleigh Bunkhouse at Highland Center

My food package addressed to Highland Center did not arrive, assumed lost. I will need to buy food. I overheard Dos needing a ride to the gas station to resupply, so I asked to tag along.

One of the AMC staffers helped Dos find a ride, which helped change her opinion of AMC somewhat. She had a bad experience last night doing work-for-stay at a hut, where the thru-hikers were set out on the porch wile the paying customers ate; it felt very divided-classes to her. Anyway, a desk staffer identified another bunkhouse guest who was willing to give us a ride to a convenience store.

Mount Washington Hotel, viewed from grocery run

I am not used to estimating food at short-term resupply stops (since I usually pre-package and mail all my food) and might not have made optimal choices. Live and Learn. On or way back, the driver pulled over when he spotted a bear. then Dos and I see it, and he let us look through binoculars. Yeah!

After a pint of ice cream from the gas station and a large cookie, I suddenly did not feel well. Exploded both ends. Assume stomach flu. I went to the lodge office to see if I could get a private room so as to not disturb or infect other hikers, but nothing was available. I was able to move into the smaller back room of the bunkhouse, with an older couple sharing with me, and a separate bathroom, and I warned all hikers present of my malady.

Felt crummy, absolutely exhausted, and fell asleep listening to podcasts.

July 30, Monday, AMC Highland Center zero day

I still feel rotten, so arrange for another day at Shapleigh Bunkhouse at Highland Center.

Though having an upset tummy, I still have hiker hunger, so had breakfast (included with room) but did not take full advantage of the all-you-can-eat part.

Then napped, rested on bunk, recharged electronics, made minor repairs, updated e-mail and blogs, and rested some more.

Sunset at Highland Center

A forced zero after a nero is NOT my idea on how to spend the day. I imagine trail friends two or three days ahead getting totally out of reach. Oh well, rest, rest, rest, …

July 31, Tuesday, Crawford Notch to RMC Gray Knob Cabin, 17.3

Perhaps I wake up feeling not one hundred per cent, but eighty per cent is OK. I just hope I do not end up getting carried down the mountain puking (or worse).

I have another AYCE breakfast without the AYCE part. Sadly, breakfast begins at 6:30AM, so allowing a half-hour to cram in food puts me behind my favorite starting time. But the day starts with clear skies. I take Crawford Path from Highland Center, which soon rejoins the AT.

The climb to Mount Franklin was not tough. Crawford Path was a bridal path at one point, so no hand-over-hand work was needed.

Crawford Path history

Lake of the Clouds was serene, and the hut provided water. I did not ask for leftovers because of the big breakfast earlier.

Lake of the Clouds

Lake of the Clouds Hut

As we leave sub-alpine and go above treeline, more hikers become visible at greater distances.

Above treeline, ascending to Mount Washington

We can see Mount Washington summit as we hike through the morning. I reach the summit around 12:30, visit the snack bar. I get chocolate milk and Doritos, and notice at a nearby table with thru-hikers that each one gets a chocolate milk and one gets double.

On summit of Mount Washington

Out again to appreciate the view, and enjoy the crowds from the cog railroad and passenger cars, and hiking groups. I resume hiking after only thirty minutes break, hoping there is some way of getting beyond Madison Spring Hut for the night. I would really prefer not negotiating a hut stay if possible.

Cog railway

The way down crosses the cog railway, and I get a good view as one goes by. Then onto scree for most of the afternoon. (Maybe I am using the term wrong, because it is not from a rock fall.) We hike on vast fields of jagged boulders on several peaks. This really slows down my pace to around one mile/hour.

Approaching train on cog railway

Jagged rocks make a challenging hike.

It looks like I would get to Madison Springs Hut at 5PM, after thru-hikers would have grabbed any work-for-stay slots. I might have negotiated a discount, but did not want to risk it. The Valley Way Tentsite alternative looks like a steep thousand foot climb down at the end of the day.

Instead, I turn off one mile prior to the hut to walk a little over a mile to Gray Knob Cabin, run by the Randolph Mountain Club. I think Companion is wrong on distance and elevation; I seem to go down further than estimated. Finally arrive at a large two-story cabin with a reclusive caretaker, who did not expect any visitors. Fetched water (Companion seemed wrong on distance to spring) Ate quick dinner, and get to enjoy the entire upper floor to myself tonight.

View near RMC cabin

Gotta hike back up again in the morning.

August 1, Wednesday, RMC Gray Knob Cabin to Pinkham Notch for White Mountain Hostel in Gorham, 8.7

Upon reflection the RMC cabin choice is not one most hikers would make, since they want to avoid any fee. Most would take chance with huts. I am unduly cautious with uncertainty of dealing with AMC huts.

Anyway, I hike back to The Trail and arrive at Madison Spring Hut at 8:30 for water, then up Mount Madison. I quickly put away trekking poles, because this is another scree field with three-point climbing. Lots of day hikers from the hut are climbing just behind me.

Approaching Madison Spring Hut

From the summit of this last White Mountain above tree-line, you can see several smaller peaks all the way down to Pinkham Notch, and see hikers from far away. Suddenly a pair way in the distance hiking towards me yell “Sagebrush!” It is Progress & Joiner!! They came down with same symptoms as me, and report knowing other hikers experiencing the same. Their location was less convenient than mine; Lake of the Clouds Hut. So, weak, they hike to Mount Washington and bum a ride down by car, and make their way to White Mountain Hostel in Gorham. Today they were making up the section they missed by hiking the other direction to Mount Washington Summit and getting a ride down to hostel again.

Joiner and Progress on Mount Madison

Energized by meeting trail friends, I continue down. I look forward to reaching Pinkham Notch by midday for a snack at the visitor’s center, and I can see it in the distance, so I should be able to reach that. I should have looked at Companion more closely. At 2:30PM I still have a way to go, when I meet Skunk Ape, who I met at the hostel at Harpers Ferry on June 54, and introduce myself. Soon a really hard downpour drenches me, sadly several minutes from the visitor center.

Finally there, I seek refuge in the cafeteria and find Skunk Ape, Little Pot (German), and sobo Blueberry. The rain does not let up anytime soon, so I will have trouble finding a place for the night. The thru-hikers mention getting a shuttle to nearby Gorham, which would not have occurred to me. Little Pot already has a spot reserved at White Mountain Lodge hostel, where Progress and Joiner would likely be tonight. and the shuttle would arrive in an hour. I acquire quarters for the pay phone and make a call.

Skunk Ape at Pinkham Notch visitor center

Skunk Ape joins us in the shuttle, but he is going to a different hostel in town. By the time we get clothes into laundry and then shower, most of the hostel occupants have already left for a shuttle to a restaurant. I order pizza take-out, and catch up with Progress & Joiner, and chat with Little Pot… and she shows me her pot.

White Mountain Lodge & Hostel

August 2, Thursday, Pinkham Notch to Imp Shelter, 13.1

When I heard breakfast at White Mountain Lodge hostel consisted of a burrito, I imagined a small microwavable yuchhy thing. Instead, we were treated to fresh homemade breakfast burritos, freshly baked blueberry muffins, and all the oatmeal you might want. Very nicely done, served whenever a hiker was up and ready for it.

Trail completion cards at hostel

The shuttle back to Pinkham Notch was scheduled for 7:30AM, so I was back on the Trail by 8AM.

Also starting there from the hostel was Pile o’ Dudes: Johnny Rocket, Knief, Messenger, Bod Bin, Metric (a different Metric) and Blue Skies. Their trail conversation tends toward Star Wars trivia, gamer nerdism, etc. Very funny dudes. They say when they get to shelter they like to play their own Dungeons&Dragons type game. They expressed a keen interest today in finally meeting Lady Forward today. Their rendition of “Oh Canada” last night was a riot.

2500 foot climb to Wildcat Mountain right off, then steep descent with some wet rocks to Carter Notch. The skies darkened, and I got a little rain just before stopping at Carter Hut around 2PM for water and break. The caretaker of this small, oldest, and last hut was baking bread and cooking dinner, while answered my questions about the trail ahead.

Pinkham Notch from Wildcat Mountain

Carter Notch Hut

Taking a chance on weather, I head out, destination Imp Shelter, expecting a late arrival, 7PM or later. Somehow I get energy and rhythm and put in a good hike, up Carter Dome and down Zeta Pass (ouch), up Carter Mountains and finally down to the shelter. The weather cleared and changed several times, but somehow did not rain. Had not had a chance to really stretch legs and hike full speed for a few days, and there were places on the Carter peaks where I could zoom along.

Carter Dome

Arrived at shelter, tired but satisfied, at 7:30AM, later joined by Butcher and Oak, thru-hikers starting in late April (which means they be fast).

This might be my last AMC shelter. I am not entirely comfortable with the AMC hut system, so will be glad to get to Maine.

August 3, Friday, Imp Shelter to Trident Col Tentsite, 14.9

From Imp Shelter, I needed to hike eight miles to US2, right at White Mountain Hostel. I knew they had a shuttle leaving for town and the post office at 10:30AM, but I could not get there in time at White Mountain hiking speed. I would need to hitch-hike four miles to town.

Started a thousand foot climb to Mount Moriah, with plenty of bare rock climbing. Three thousand foot descent had my left knee complaining about yesterday’s downward climb. Along Rattle River was a nice easy downward sloping smooth trail, allowing downhill-lope gait not used much in New Hampshire.

Down near the intersection to the highway, I meet a father saying goodbye to three sons heading up the trail. He asked me about my AT trip, and when I mentioned needing to hitch to Gorham, he offered to give me a ride. He also offered to return me to the trailhead when I was finished, since He did not have any obligations all day. I suggested we meet at pizza place across road from post office at 2PM (Mr. Pizza) What luck for me to get a ride.

The post office had my food package, which was a relief. After processing food and supplies I went to Mr. Pizza for meatball sub and shake. I had weighed myself at hostel yesterday and was down to 148 pounds, down from normal 155, so need to work on eating more in towns, when I do not have to carry food. I also updated journal while eating, and looked at e-mails. Later I walked to library for faster reliable wifi and downloaded podcasts and finished e-mail. I returned to Mr. Pizza at 1:50PM and waited until 2:25PM, but ride back was a no-show.

I walked to edge of town and stuck out my thumb. I was picked up by an eccentric lady who brought me back to her stealth hostel, where she picks up four hikers, before stopping at trailhead.

Before starting hike stop by White Mountain Hostel and leave some excess supplies in hiker box. Also get my picture taken. They forgot to take it yesterday and asked me to stop by today to get photographed.

The Trail starts with a road walk past a small hydroelectric generation building and spillway, then up a thousand(?) foot climb on a path that is pleasant, not too rocky, not too steep, more like Maryland instead of New Hampshire except for the large elevation change. A brief shower made the rock climbing on the next mountain more challenging.

Arrived at Trident Col Tentsite, empty, around 7PM, but soon files up. The tent site next to me is taken by a young woman section hiking New Hampshire and Maine on weekends, who lives in Montreal. We listen as a pack of coyotes with pups sets off a terrific series of howls and yips.

Echoes of home.

August 4, Saturday, Trident Col Tentsite to Full Goose Shelter ME, 14.5

From Trident Col Tentsite I spend much longer in the morning than expected in grinding up and down elevation changes not reflected in Companion, and a climb up Mount Success for one last finale for New Hampshire before crossing into Maine.

Last state line of the trip

For the afternoon I climb Goose Eye Mountain, following along a soft of ridge line, with lots of balds, but also with jaggies, so you come to places where you put away your trekking poles, rock climb down forty feet, rock climb back up fifty feet, then resume along ridgeline. My energy level is somehow lower today, so lots of podcasts help in the afternoon.

I finally arrive at Full Goose Shelter around 7PM and find all tent sites full. Of course, it it a weekend, with a large group. The shelter initially looks full but makes room for me. Staying there are Expeditor & Instigator, an older thru-hiker couple, with very similar equipment to mine: other Gossamer Gear packs, Caldera stove, and bubble-wrap insulation for cooking. Hope to meet them on The Trail and talk more.

Also see Magpie, who I haven’t seen in a while, who usually hammocks and does so again tonight. Also see the young woman from Montreal, who is quite a fast hiker for sectioning on weekends. Also there is Grok (Heinlein literary reference I recognize!)

So how do I get to Andover for a nice nero, and how do I get a ride into Andover, eight miles from trail, with infrequent traffic for a difficult hitch? Sleep on it.

Related Posts:

• AT2012: MD PA NJ NY CT MA VT NH ME
• AT1988: GA NC TN VA WV

July 13, Friday the thirteenth, Wilbur Clearing Shelter MA to Congdon Shelter, 17.1

Lots of hikers seemed to be leaving Wilbur Clearing Shelter early, then I discovered my watch had switched time zones in the middle of the night, so it was really 6:15AM, not 5:15AM.

Almost Awesome and Possum were already down the Trail, headed for a breakfast at Friendlies. I decided to bypass the spending opportunity to go a little faster. I may regret that when we reach Vermont, today, where there are fewer towns near road crossings, and possibly fewer snack opportunities or trail magic. On the way out of North Adams, MA I follow a lovely stream with clean water, part of the town’s public water supply.

Climbing a bit, I soon enter Vermont. It seem I am running out of states.

Some water sources are barely flowing, so I skip until the next when I get to Seth Warner Shelter at noon I am thirsty and ready for a good source. A couple of thru-hikers I hadn’t met before but keep seeing this morning, Sugar Plum and Jeff Davis, are also struggling with water flow. It takes me twenty-five minutes to get two liters, and I forget about the third liter for now. While I am eating a bonus lunch and catching up on journaling, Possum and Almost Awesome also arrive for lunch. They are going to one shelter further than me today, and I will actually plan to hike slightly less than twenty miles for once to get in camp at a reasonable hour and rinse out day clothes and have time to write journal. The Ape Team tell me what they have heard about next hostel in Manchester Vermont: includes laundry and town clothes, get everything done in town and then give a call for a shuttle since they are a long walk from town, and reservations would be a good idea for once, since they recently had to turn people away because of popularity. Also, wifi and computer were available.

For me, making a reservation once I am sure of the day could by tricky, because I have Sprint as cell carrier, with much less coverage compared to Verizon.

Possum wanted to get more of my thoughts on ultra-light next time we share a shelter. I showed them a few things, then extended lunch was over.

Several trail climbs and descents. I discover they do indeed have gnats in Vermont. I need podcasts early to make up for low energy level, then run out of podcasts by 5PM. Note to myself: download a lot more audio next time I have wifi.

I arrive at Congdon Shelter at 6:30PM and see Sugar Plum and Jeff Davis submerged in pools in the stream below the shelter. That seems like a good idea to me. After putting up tent and hanging bear line, I make way down to the stream and soak my footsies, entire bod, and day clothes.

Sticks and Metric are arriving at the shelter just as I climb back to the AT, so I pretend to be lost and have lost all my equipment.

The shelter has an odd arrangement, with a table for cooking inside. I prepare dinner, joined by Sticks and Metric, and an older couple long hiking who will stay in the shelter. Also joined by a sobo who tells us scary stories of the trail ahead.

Clean, and in bed, all settled at a decent 9PM, to write a little.

Good night all.

July 14, Saturday, Congdon Shelter to Kid Gore Shelter, 18.7

Good early start, with climb first thing in morning. Then descend to cross a road heading to Bennington VT. Wish for trail magic. Given the remoteness of northern states, will trail magic be scarce.

Into Melville Nauheim Shelter for early brunch and water. My body seems to be telling me to consume extra calories today. A couple of hours later I encounter a lookout tower, which hikers are allowed to climb. Up above the “green tunnel”, I enjoy the view.

Glastenbury Mountain firetower

Podcasts get me through the afternoon. Water is increasingly difficult to find. We really need a rain.

Arrive at Kid Gore Shelter around 6PM. Water is not good, so I get by on what I carried in. Really want to go to next shelter, 4.6 miles away, but my feet will not go.

For a long while it looks like I am only one at site. I cook two dinners again, showing my body really has the munchies. A British couple on holiday hiking a section of Long Trail arrive and begin cutting up fresh vegetables for dinner. Yum!

Fresh Step arrives. He is thru-hiker who started in February, the earliest I have met. He is determined to walk his own pace, and does NOT want to finish before September. I ask if he misses hiking with a consistent group of friends. He says the planning for that would just stress him out. In his words, he is the sort of personality groups form around, and he is determined to hike his own hike.

Though the water source is undrinkable, I ca use it to wipe down. Cannot get enough to rinse out clothes.

A note on the flying insects in Vermont: We have long had to deal with gnats that hover near ear and eye, but we seem to be adding some other types– one buzzes past noisily like a housefly, and keeps passing back-and-forth like a fighter escort. Not sure what benefit this critter finds in buzzing us. The same fly seems to follow for several minutes. Then we have a squadron of hovering-around-head insects– consider them a helicopter escort.

I write in a shelter journal:

Shoo, fly, don’t bother me.

Shoo, fly, don’t bother me.

Shoo, fly, don’t bother me.

So I can hike some more AT!

July 15, Sunday, Kid Gore Shelter to Spruce Peak Shelter, 22.9

I get out of Kid Gore Shelter at a record 5:30AM, hoping to make some early miles to have the option of walking out at the end of the day to Manchester Center and getting the shuttle to my hostel. The chances of actually getting to town this evening is pretty slim– more likely I would end up at the closest shelter, Spruce Peak Shelter, then hike three miles and hitch five mile for a nero (near-zero) day tomorrow.

At four miles I hit Storm Spring Shelter, which has nice water. I had been almost dry, since the shelter I slept at had no good water, leaving only the liter I brought in for dinner and to start the day. On the climb up to Stratton Mountain I meet Quicksilver, who started thru-hiking in the April 20s, the latest yet. I draft behind him and another new face, Falling Rock, which seems to make my climb faster and easier. Almost 4000 feet high.

Firetower steps, Stratton Mountain

At the top is another observation tower. I see No Sweat, who is planning on taking a gondola ride. I climb down, and the trail is not bad. Stratton Pond Shelter has a caretaker, who I see trimming vegetation along The Trail as I come in. The pond has swimming. I wasn’t going to spend any time there, but I see Jefferson Davis and Uncle Spider, and another new face, Skyline, who is hiking the long Trail (same as AT for first 100 miles) who already hiked the AT a previous year. I soak feet and get clothes wet to clean off some trail fragrance. The water is surprisingly clear, and I see tiny baby catfish hiding near rocks on the water’s edge.

The next two or three miles go easy because of the refreshing dip. Around 2PM we get some sprinkling, and by 4PM a sustained rain.

Have I had any real rain since 501 Shelter?

About an hour away from the final shelter the rain comes down hard. I am cruising and listening to a podcast, when I am passed by Sticks and Metric. Looking at trail journals, I thought they were ahead of me. I try keeping up with them, but eventually they are out of sight. Nevertheless, at 6PM I reach Spruce Peak Shelter in the pouring rain. The shelter is perfect for this weather, with front porch, fully enclosed cabin with bunks, and a sliding door. Lines are rigged, clothes are hung to dry. Dinner fires up on the porch.

Spruce Peak Shelter

More hikers arrive. Along with Two Step and Payman (a German thru-hiker couple) and Sticks & Metric, we get Jefferson Davis, Skyline, No Sweat, Uncle Spider, Falling Rock, most all who seem to know each other.

Somehow I have fallen in the middle of another bubble. It is unclear to me where this bubble falls in relation to mid-March bubble I normally travel with. Will ask around later.

Word of mouth tells us that Green Mountain House Hostel needs a reservation. Sticks & Metric already have a spot reserved. Skyline also plans to go, so Metric makes reservations for each of us and asks some questions about the shuttle.

Good Day. Lots of new faces.

July 16, Monday, Spruce Peak Shelter to Green Mountain House hostel in Manchester Center, 2,8

Some of the guys were out on the porch late at night, talking with their “outside voice”. Sugar Plum arrived late and climbed up onto my loft, where I was the only sleeper tucked into a corner. I could sense her surprise as she accidentally touched my finger and realized someone else was there.

I have to get up early for call of nature, and remain sitting at picnic table until others stir. Two Steps comes out, wrinkles her nose, and says “Bad air!” I go inside the shelter, and indeed, the air is bad. That number of gassy hikers in an enclosed space is not good. Perhaps that is why shelters are normally three-sided.

By the time I hike three miles down to the road, Sticks &Metric have passed and are gone– probably caught a ride. I am well aware the thru-hikers have had plenty of hitching practice by now, and are rather good at it, compared to me. I put on a clean shirt and my best smile. The traffic is really fast and the shoulder to pull over is tiny. I have no luck, using all my meager tricks hitching.

Oh well, reluctantly start the five mile road-walk into town. At mile one I find an American flag along the road, and carry it while thumbing, Milkman’s hitching method. At Mile 2, amazingly, I find an iPhone that still has charge and works somewhat. I do not find anything at Mile 3, especially rides, or Mile 4.

Goats along road to Manchester Center

Getting into the large-ish touristy town I find a Friendlies and order breakfast with milkshake. They give the extra in the blender cup, which is the only civilized way to serve a shake. At the post office I get food drop and find Skyline at a desk, writing up a trail journal and pictures for his five-year-old kid. I notice he has an Apple phone and show him what I find. After some fiddling he finds a number and calls it with his phone. The wife of the phone owner is nearby and comes to the post office to get it. They assumed the phone was stolen, but based on where I found it the iPhone must have fallen out of a pocket during a walk.

Skyline‘s feet are sore, but we walk to nearest good spot for lunch, which happens to be Friendly’s. We have burgers; I have another shake. Runner comes and sits at the table next to us. He is staying at a different place.

We have a plan: Skyline and his feet rest and I run to drugstore for rubbing alcohol for him and micro-sd card for me. My phone is running out of storage space for photos. No micro-sd at first store, but a Radio Shack is near, so I score a 16Gb card. I return and we call for a shuttle.

Green Mountain House

The hostel guy, Jeff, is really nice, and the hostel is immaculate and well furnished. The Ape Team are here zeroing, so I know it will be a fun stay. Sticks & Metric caught a hitch literally as they were crossing the road and hadn’t started thumbing yet. They are amazed I walked five miles. S & M have a private room, Skyline and I share, and Possum and Almost Awesome are down the hall.

Possum, Almost Awesome, Skyline, Metric, and Sticks

The Ape Team are watching a PCT video, and parts are hilarious, unintentionally.

After shower I wear street clothes provided by the hostel, and share laundry load with Sticks&Metric. The pair make oatmeal cookies, and later a cheesecake to share. Skyline finds an electronic piano and does some impressive improvisation. Later he offers to use some mushrooms I brought and some eggs provided by the hostel and make omelettes for both of us. I am actually getting full today.

Skyline’s mushroom omelette

Plugging my phone into the hostel computer, I am able to back up all photos to Picasa AND to move all data to a bigger micro-SD card without any technical headaches. Now I have loads more storage space. Amazed nothing went wrong during backup and transfer.

Hostel shoe display

Good company, good hostel, good night.

July 17, Tuesday, Manchester Center to Little Rock Pond Shelter, 19.8

Tonight Falling Rock’s windup radio is playing “Dust in the Wind”. The time is 8:30PM at Little Rock Pond Shelter, where Falling Rock and I had a dip in the pond earlier. In the spacious shelter, with bunks and a covered picnic table and benches, Blazer (former thru-hiker, section hiking) is joining us as we hear thunder and the roar of rain on the tin roof. Falling Rock, a section hiker doing Vermont, got inspired to make “Funfetti” pancakes and generously shares with both of us, and the real maple syrup is yummy. Now the rain is coming down even harder, making it tough to talk over, with plenty of lightning and thunder grace notes. Sometimes it starts to slow down, and comes back even harder. What will this do to the Trail tomorrow?

Falling Rock makes Funfetti pancakes in the dark

This morning Jeff offered us early or late shuttles. Everyone except Sticks and Metric elected for early, so we were at the trailhead by 6:45AM. Ape Team zoomed out, and Skyline and I hiked most of the day together and often talked about whatever as we walked. He is a lawyer, in a startup firm doing environmental and business law, and has a month or so until the real work begins, so is doing the Long Trail. His five year old son misses his dad, but dad is sending photos and making phone calls to son. Skyline and wife Sunset(?) thru-hiked a few years ago, and he wanted to hike some more to get into shape. Instead of gradually ramping up, he tried some big miles at the beginning. Sound familiar? Now his feet are a mess with blisters.

We climb Bromley Mountain and descend Mad Tom Notch, where my foot slips and I come heavily down on the right-hand trekking pole, causing it to bend at the top joint between sections. I am unhurt. I am also inwardly upset, thinking of the expense of replacement, how I can get new poles quickly, how soon I can communicate with “Base Support”. The rest of the morning and afternoon I am probably not the best conversation partner.

Trekking pole breakage

At one of the closely-spaced shelters we stop for foot break and snacks, and chat with sobo Snake-Eyes. His phone is out of order, so both Skyline and I commit to call Green Mountain House when we get a signal to get him a reservation. Skyline has a better phone, but I am hiking a little further today.

At Big Branch Shelter Skyline and I part company. He is wisely going easy on feet, and I want to do twenty miles today.

Skyline

I pass Sugar-Plum, Uncle Spider, and Jefferson Davis sunning and napping after a dip in the stream.

At Little Rock Pond Shelter I meet Blazer, and another fellow who camps several nights at a shelter tentsite for solitude. The shelter is a beauty, with roof covering the picnic table and extended deck. Falling Rock arrives and we decide to go for a dip in the pond, but first I need to cook some dinner. Then we experience crystal clear water, and watch salamanders swimming. I go in with my day clothes to rinse them off, and float around. In the distance we hear thunder, but anywhere near the pond.

Little Rock Pond

Back to first of this journal entry…

July 18, Wednesday, Little Rock Pond Shelter to Governor Clement Shelter, 19.4

After a thorough drenching last night, I can still hike with dry feet, as vegetation does not lean over trail and soak shoes as in other states. Today I am hiking a little slower, cruising, not putting effort into speed.

Soon passed by Sticks & Metric, but do not see many other nobos. Starting to see several sobos during the day.

Eventually climb to a vista view of an airport below. Later spend an extended lunch catching up on journals. Descend down to suspension bridge for hikers that is very high over the water and offers a lot of movement. Then a really steep technical climb on rock boulders a long way up, before moderating to a mere steep climb.

Rutland Southern Vermont Regional Airport

I begin to see several young people doing trail maintenance. One was pounding rock into gravel, others moving stones.

In late afternoon I come to sign for trail re-route, along roads, due to severe hurricane weather last year. From sobos I know that the old blazed AT is still passable, and a mile or so shorter, but I elect to respect the re-route after thinking of those trail workers: I do not want to walk and cause erosion on a trail that still needs repairs. Also, I do not mind the reduced grades of road walking. After several sections and turns of country road I am about to catch up with an older thru-hiker when we both meet a couple beside the road with a cooler. Trail magic on a re-route! They are both hikers, but knee problems limit her to shorter hikes, but they do quite a lot of different locations. I enjoy a cold soda and cracker snack while chatting. They have a secret shelter, which the other guy gratefully accepts. I plan to go on to Governor Clement Shelter, and the couple walk with a a short distance and show where the regular AT blazes begin.

At 6:30PM I wonder if I will be the only one at shelter, and then Sticks and Metric appear and tent behind the massive walled stone shelter. I go down to nearby stream and cool feet while rinsing off myself and day clothes.

Governor Clement Shelter

Back at shelter, we are eating dinner and talking together, when I accidentally knock over my alcohol stove with my shoe. “Umm, your left shoe is on fire.” Tiny cool alcohol flame, easy to extinguish. “Funny, I’ve never had to say that sentence to anyone before.” Sign. It seems my role is comic relief for Sticks & Metric.

July 19, Saturday, Governor Clement Shelter to Mountain Meadows Lodge at Kent Pond, 14.6

The weather turned cold last night, and I actually needed the mummy function of my sleeping bag.

The day begins with a two-thousand foot climb, but the grade is not too bad. Nice to do it fresh, in the cool air. At Cooper Lodge I see Sticks & Metric left their packs, and understand they are taking the short steep rock climb up to Killington Peak. I join them as we take photos. Safely returned to pack, I take trail down that is too steep and full of rocks and roots to make good speed with a “lope”. During the morning I am eating an extra meal. I have been doing this the past couple of days, but hiking faster than scheduled, so I have the food.

Killington Peak, second highest point in VT

In the afternoon the Long Trail finally splits off. I choose not to take a side trail to Inn of the Long Trail. At Gifford Woods Start Park I stop at HQ for snack opportunity. They are out of sodas, but I get Ben&Jerry’s ice cream on a stick.

In late afternoon I could go to Killington post office, but with low energy I hike on a mile to Kent Pond and to Mountain Meadows Lodge. I have option of staying on tent site for only $10, no shower, but indulge myself with a room and dinner. The lodge is huge, with farm animals, dock, kayaks, more amenities than one could use, but almost empty before the weekend rush.

Mountain Meadows Lodge

For dinner I sit at a table with three hikers: Sculler, who I met a long time ago, and two sobos. Another table holds non-long-distance-hikers. The sobos tell us the methods they use to score leftovers at AMC huts and score work-for-stays. This involves at bit of luck and social engineering I do not have, so I might by paying the expensive rates for a couple of nights, since it does not seem practical to get through the White Mountains without staying at a hut at least once or twice. Well, worry about that later: I have an actual bed to enjoy.

Kent Pond, near lodge

July 20, Friday, Mountain Meadows Lodge at Kent Pond to Wintturi Shelter, 16.6

Sculler and I have breakfast scheduled for 6:30AM at the inn, eggs and pancakes.

I make my way backwards on the Trail a bit and go to Killington, and find the post office after a couple of wrong turns. Nearby is a general store/deli, so I pre-order a sub for first lunch and pack it.

When the post office opens, I am presented with news that three boxes arrived, not the four expected. Oops, the replacement shoes do not arrive in time. “Base Support” had the Amazon reseller ship directly to the post office, and Amazon delivery dates sometimes get a bit slippery. I ask the post office guy if he can forward the box another couple of mail drops, to Glenncliff NH, and he readily agrees. Hiker lore warns that some post offices are much more reluctant to forward general delivery boxes and require special paperwork, so I feel fortunate. The current shoes seem to be holding fine with “shoe goo”, so I am not worried. I eat “first Lunch” early so I do not have to pack trash. I realize that a local outfitter, Base Camp Outfitters BCO, has a shortcut trail to the Inn, but first I need a new shirt. The current one, merino short sleeve, is looking ratty because war is making little fuzz balls. It does not get all the way clean anymore, and I had to cut off sleeves in blazing hot Pennsylvania. I am thinking of getting a polypro shirt like most of the AT hikers use. The woman helping me expresses a clear preference for merino, and says that even with modern odor control measures incorporated into polypro they had to ask an employee to stop waring his poly shirt to work because of the stink. I express concern that my merin wasn’t holding up well. She said the fuzzballs go away if you wash the shirt with jeans. (Not very practical for the AT, but a fun random fact.) She calls her husband over, who expresses a firm opinion that a quality merino shirt should last the entire trail. I tried on shirts of both materials, and on impulse choose the wool.

(skip anecdote on obliviousness)

I stop by the inn to grab wifi and inform “base support” about the shoe shipment delay. Then finally I am on The Trail at 11AM. Big climb up Quimby Mountain, then up and down all afternoon. Perhaps it is my perspective after resting up at the inn, but the woods are more lovely and enjoyable. Certainly not an easier trail, but I get more out of walking it after a brief break.

Private cabin lookout

Finally arrive at Wintturi Shelter late at 7:30-ish, quickly get water and fix dinner. Sculler is also there, and we get a chance to talk a bit before I close my eyes and welcome sleep.

PS: My new shirt has a label to let me track the sheep my wool came from.

July 21, Saturday, Wintturi Shelter to Happy Hill Shelter, 20.4

Today I had several grazing opportunities, but what about hiking, surrounded by the serene beauty of Vermont northwoods. Or perhaps you agree with Jefferson Davis, “Avoid towns; They just want to take your money.” Well, we must hike our own hike, and feel a duty to support local economies.

I leave Winturri shelter and descend down to VT12, where a grocery is nearby. Well, a closer reading of Companion would explain that the expanded farmer stand does not open until 10AM, hardly hiker-friendly hours. Payman and Two Step, who pass and are passed seemingly a dozen times during the day, are similarly disappointed, but we have another couple of chances.

Maple syrup tubing

Companion does not show much elevation change during this section of The Trail, but that is deceptive, since it is only listing the roads and not the hilltops in between. All day is an up-and-down roller coaster, but it is Vermont, with serene farm scenery and tall northwoods. Up and down I travel to Cloudland Road, where a restaurant sells pints if ice cream and locally bottled soda. I am enjoying my pint of cinnamon ice cream (very lightly flavored, almost vanilla) and raspberry rhubarb soda, out on the porch, when Payman and Two Step arrive and get their own pints and bottles.

Cloudland Farm Country Market

On to some afternoon hiking, up and down, not insufferably hot or full of hostile flying attackers as past weeks, mostly fighting gravity and friction. I begin to see trees connected by plastic tubes– sugar maples! Sometimes a few isolated trees in the forest are connected by long stretches of tubing, in turn connected to more trees. The modern sugar maple industry, unlike the Internet, is a series of tubes.

A series of tubes

Around 4PM I arrive in West Hartford, Vermont, among several people out for rafting and other watersports. I stop at the general store/deli for a sub and soda, early first dinner, while Payman and Two Step skip this stop. Hiking on, I soon see them camped at a stream, having gotten word that Happy Hill Shelter is now dry. I take on extra water and soak feet, and choose to go on the shelter anyway.

I finally arrive around 7PM at a fairly unusual shelter, sized three across with a loft for a snug six persons. A couple of section-hikers come and tent, and finally Sculler arrives and joins me in the shelter.

And, yes, I do have dinner, second dinner, after all these trail-side snacks.

Related Posts:

• AT2012: MD PA NJ NY CT MA VT NH ME
• AT1988: GA NC TN VA WV

 

 

July 5, Thursday, Ten Mile River Shelter to Stewart Hollow Brook Shelter, 15.7

Jason was also getting an early start, but I got out first. Along the Ten-Mile River, I could see rapids as I walked. Insects were already a problem, and gnats would torment all day, so I had to deet-up early.

Next was the climb up Schaghticoke Mountain, one thousand feet up, and when you thought you were on top and on the way down the trail goes right back up again. Hard climbing. Then a thousand feet down was not much fun either. Because of the elevation change I made much less than two miles/hour progress in the morning, which would be a taste of what we find in New Hampshire.

I take the road into Kent, around noon, planning four hours in town during heat of the day to thoroughly recharge cell batteries, then walk fast and late to next shelter, Stewart Hollow Brook seven miles away. One of the first shops in town is a combination outfitters and ice cream shop. They did not have replacement merino wool socks in my size :-(, but cone was fine. Actually two separate businesses in same building, and ice cream was from their own creamery.

Kent, CT

Further into town I paused at library to use facilities. They had wifi, so flushed the rest of my accumulated blog posts, then went to post office, but they were closed 2 to 2:30 for break. Fortunately laundry was nearby, so charged and washed and finished some journal entries. Then post office was open, so got my food box and repacked in lobby. Out back on way to trail, I am out of time to use library computer, so will have to do that next time, as I need to research and order some items.

One of my cell phone batteries does not appear to be in good health. After charging to 70% and unplugging, meter reads 30%. Jason had showed me an external rechargeable battery pack he picked up an an Apple Store, with name “morphie”. Perhaps I need to accept the extra weight and get one of these devices instead of a replacement cell battery.

What with being inefficient and getting a final soda at the creamery, I do not leave town until 4:30PM. An initial 500 foot climb makes my freshly laundered day clothes not quite so fresh, alas. Meet a hiker at the top, Scrabble, who just recently resumed a thru-hike from 2008 to complete. We walked together a bit, then I need to fast-walk because I do not really want to arrive at shelter later than 8PM. After a feature named St Johns Ledges the trail takes a mildly terrifying descent on boulders to get to river level. We follow a river a long way, with a long distance between blazes that almost makes me turn around.

At 8PM I find the campsite, with several tents and hammocks. Follow the trail to the shelter, I am directed to a final campsite, where I discover Progress and Joiner. They had stayed at a hotel, and were forced to resupply from a convenience store, which is expensive. They said somebody was by with trail magic, promoting a new hostel, and they would offer pickup and delivery anywhere on Massachusetts trail. Sounds like a good option if I can stay at shelter when trail friends are also there.

Scrabble comes later to same campsite.

July 6, Friday, Stewart Hollow Brook Shelter to primitive camp near Limestone Spring Shelter, 22.3

One month on The Trail!

Started early and followed the river for a mile. Then the climbing started. Soon passed by Progress and Joiner, who invited me to join them for brunch in town tomorrow.

I knew by the trail profile that I would not have one big thousand foot climb like yesterday, but several 500 up-and-downs that could be even harder. No following ridgelines, and no real views to offer once we reached the heights.

In one narrow deep notch between rocks that hikers had to climb through, I way on a nearby ledge a huge bird, that may have been a vulture, just perched there, perhaps ready to feed off the broken carcasses of hikers who get into trouble in that notch.

Arrive at Pine Swamp Brook Shelter at noon, and write this entry:

Happy one monthiversary to me!
6/6/2012 HF to ME
6/6/1988 GA to HF
Sagebrush

PS: Thanks to all the long distance hikers answering my newbie questions in June, and not whapping me upside the head when I got obnoxious. You know who you are. Actually, most of you are north of me and cannot read this.

Hear this tremendous roar of engines. A race is underway on a track far below. Even though my batteries are low I need to listen to podcasts to keep going. Arrive at falls just after the generating plant, around 5:30PM, where many teens are swimming. I find a nice cache of trail magic: brownies and tea, fresh fruit, snacks. Not just nice, but essential boost to get up the mountain. A couple swimming down in the fall pools sees me, waves, and comes up. It is Ducky and Crazy Goose, trail angels who provided the magic. They were thru-hikers last year, live in Hartford CT, 1.5 hour drive, and come out some days to do trail magic.

They passed on a message from Joiner and Progress that they wouldn’t go the 0.7 mile side trail into Limestone Spring Shelter, but would camp out near the AT by the side trail. Good to know. Less hiking.

Ducky and Crazy Goose

Still, with talking to the angels, I do not head up from the falls until 6:30PM, and wonder if I will have to night-hike at the last.

Up the trail loose dogs come near. One is friendly, but the other, a golden retriever (!) barks aggressively and is not willing to let me pass. Finally the owner comes down the trail, a woman, fifty-ish, who gives the standard dog owner “The dog is friendly” salutation and expresses the standard dog owner amazement at why her precious is acting out.

On up the trail, not too punishing for a change.

Arrive at 9PM and find Progress and Joiner in their tent. I set up a tent nearby, wipe off, and fall asleep after a challenging day. I do not even fix dinner, but trail magic was apparently enough.

July 7, Saturday, primitive camp near Limestone Spring Shelter to The Hemlocks Shelter MA, 17.5

Left camp at 6AM, made Salisbury Connecticut by 8AM, cute little expensive quaint village with bistros and movie star residents. Progress, Joiner, and I have several choices but settle on the Country Bistro and eat inside but away from less smelly patrons and near the air conditioning. The breakfast burrito seems to be the value selection, which I tried.

Joiner was accepted to George Mason MBA program this week, with a direction in corporate or international corporate studies. Great news.

After the meal I go to charge, but the phone does not recognize a battery is inserted. Oh no, a battery died, and that was the good battery! I am in trouble.

Progress has news: Golden and Wildflower may be in Salisbury right now. They were texting. Seems like they had taken a couple of days off.

Steamer sees me through a coffee-shop window. He is staying across the street in a lady’s house for $40/night, waiting for days to get cooler. A “cold” front is expected to pass through today, with scattered showers. As a big guy he overheats easier than us small people. He has all kinds of shops within a three block distance. I should take the bunk next to his, because his room rate is a steal for such an up-scale tourist spot, but stubbornly I am determined to put in some miles.

Progress and Joiner resupply at the up-scale grocery, where protein bars are rather more expensive– hiker world problems. I charge a little more and journal, but realize my one remaining battery is crying for an overnight recharge. I do not realize it yet, but so is my body.

I leave Progress and Joiner and head up the Trail, planning on getting water at the cemetery out of town. Trouble is, faucet broken, if that piece of pipe used to be the faucet. Oh, well. Another four miles. I am so glad the waitress at lunch kept refilling our ice water. I see Milk Jug preparing to thumb into town. He holds his American flag he got for the Fourth while hitchhiking. Not a bad idea…

Very shortly I water at an unlisted stream, and start the thousand foot climb to Lions Head. I am joined by Progress and Joiner, and fall in behind them at their challenging pace that is still within my comfort and safety limits. We fall into easy conversation to take our minds off the rigors being imposed on our bodies. I know she started the AT several weeks before and then he joined he. Was this planned all along? No, they had section hiked for a week together, and he definitely decided long distance hiking was not for him, while she was even more certain she wanted to thru-hike. But after a few weeks on The Trail, she was lonely, so he quickly got ready and joined her. Wow!

Joiner and Progress

Also asked about her involvement with horses (knowing that would pass the time, since horse people have a lot to say about their passion.) She participates in eventing, which is scored rather than judged like, say, Western Pleasure. She dreams of owning her own riding stable someday, and maybe keeping ten horses for lessons, but will not board horses. She has researched and believes you cannot make money boarding, while letting yourself in for a continuous stream of complaints. She also sees in the near future the difficulty of justifying the expense of her activity where she lives in northern Virginia.

At Lions Head we meet Runner, a 60-ish thru-hiker, who started mid-march, though none of us had met him before. In discussion he learns I did chip design and describes being part of an in-house CAD group in the 90s, before shifting to another job at Martin. With pardons to Progress and Joiner, we geek out for a while as the four of us descend down to shelter. I do not get to talk geek much on The Trail, so enjoy thoroughly.

We get in early enough at The Hemlocks Shelter, 6:30PM, that I can find water, rinse off day clothes, and myself, which I hadn’t been able to do for a couple of days. Spacious shelter with bunks. A loft is used by Progress and Joiner. We are joined by Lorax (18, talks like surfer dude) and a couple of actual thru-hiker southbounders who seem lean and hungry, like they have been through an ordeal. Hmmm.

July 8, Sunday, The Hemlocks Shelter to hotel at Great Barrington, 16.4

I am noticing people are more likely to get out of shelters early compared to near Harpers Ferry, where even starting to move before 6AM might wake people. Now we want to be on the Trail while still cool. Runner and I head out early, me leading. Each of us have a son and daughter, though his are married and out in the work force, and we compare notes while climbing up and down. At Massachusetts Highway 41 we are about to go down the road for a grill place Joiner found in Awol, but first Runner spots trail magic: a cooler full of cans of cola, covered in ice. We each enjoy a can, and move on. A half-mile road walk and we see no sign of a grill. I decide to go on three more telephone poles, and we see something. Sure enough, it exists. Bad news though, does not open until 4PM on Sundays. I don’t think we will want to wait five hours. We pause for me to charge and we eat lunch snacks and get water under a shady pavilion with picnic tables for outdoor dining. As we are about to leave Progress and Joiner show, and we deliver the bad news.

Back to the trail crossing and we see a trail angel tending the cooler. She thru-hiked toe AT in one direction, here now-husband thru-hiked in the other direction, and they met on the John Muir Trail. They share trail angel duties.

On the Trail and a sharp ascent, with Runner in front. Soon he outdistances all of us, and we do not see him again! We get to Highway 23, and I decide to get off the Trail and bid them farewell. P&J hike long days and are not due to take off for more than a week. But will eventually stop and meet her dad. I will not likely see them for a long time, and thank them warmly for the good trail conversation.

I am headed four miles along a highway in the heat of the day to Great Barrington, which has motels and a K-Mart and Radio Shack. My goal is to find a place with wifi, charge up thoroughly, order equipment for the weeks ahead, improve the battery situation, and enjoy a real bed.

I am not comfortable with hitchhiking. However, after a couple of miles I resort to no-thumb hitching from advice I overheard from other hikers: hat off, big small, look them directly in the eye, walk backwards facing traffic. I am not good at the technique, but a teen soon stops and gives me a lift and shows me the “cheap” hotels in town. My phone is completely dead, so I cannot look at prices on “Companion”, so walk to a few and settle on Lantern House Motel, at $100/night, which injures my sense of cheapness. However when I ask about wifi and the manager admits reception is spotty in some rooms, and I explain I cannot go out to the good reception area because my phone battery is at zero, he takes me around to a couple of different rooms for me to plug in and try for best reception. Bemused, I do settle on this motel.

I do not shower because a soaking bath is better. Limp out to K-Mart and Radio Shack and they actually have stuff I can use. I send off a flurry of messages to “Base Support” and order items online. “Base Support” acted on my previous plea for help and went to Apple Store for an external battery pack and will send to Dalton MA food drop.

I work on the “dead” cell phone battery, and by plugging and unplugging the charger fifty times I convince the cell phone to recognize it as a real battery again.

Now for some deep recharge, both for the batteries and myself.

July 9, Monday, hotel at Great Barrington to Upper Goose Pond Cabin, 19.1

Free continental breakfast isn’t until 7AM, for forget an early hiker start. I scarf a huge pile of bagel sandwiches and assorted pastries. Up the road by 8AM; no kindly teens offer me a ride to the trailhead, but a good night’s sleep gets me to the trail by 9:30AM.

Getting to Mount Wilcox South Shelter for late lunch and water break, I find the water not good. Sigh. I go further and find an unlisted stream with better water.

Beaver sign

Beaver den

I need to stop at Tyringham post office for a package, but that presents a problem: The office closes in early afternoon until 4PM, which makes me late to the nearest shelter opportunity, Upper Goose Pond Cabin, a really nice stop recommended by hikers. By 4:30PM my food is arranged and letters mailed, and I go across the street to a bed and breakfast to inquire about rates. Unfortunately the proprietor is nowhere to be found. Hmmm, what to do? No camping at non-official campsites along the Trail in this state, no campsites until Upper Goose Pond, which I “might” reach at 8:30PM on my best day. Tyringham used to allow camping in a public pavilion, but this notice is posted in the post office community bulletin board:

The Terrence F Carrin Pavilion (is owned by the Tyringham Fire Co) The Pavilion is closed for camping, the reason for this is because the A/T took away hunters rights to access trail land after a day hikers encounter with an out of town hunter. The Trail runs from Maine to Georgia, and the only place you cannot hunt trail land is in Tyringham.

Tyringham MA

Great, now I am caught up in factually dubious politics. Climb on. Assisted by podcasts, yet the way is hard, and I flag, and my pace reduces. At 7:30PM I notice how dark the forest interior becomes. I can still navigate fine at 8PM. Finally the headlamp comes out. I’ve heard of hikers making great progress on night hikes. They must have bigger heavier headlamps and younger eyes. My pace slows to a crawl. Around 8:45 I encounter the Goose Cabin Tent Area, with no food bags in the bear box. Of course, everyone went to the much nicer cabin.

Upper Goose Pond Cabin

Now I make an error of judgement brought on by fatigue. I should stay at the tent site, on the wooden tent platform. Instead I press on to the cabin. Everyone is already asleep upstairs, and I slip in as quiet as a mouse and put my bedroll next to the hearth downstairs and close my eyes.

July 10, Tuesday, Upper Goose Pond Cabin to Kay Wood Shelter, 17.6

Some hikers slipped out of Upper Goose Pond Cabin early, around 6AM. I gather up my bedroll from the floor quickly and pack my gear. Twenty-two hikers and the caretaker stayed overnight. Several familiar faces, including some I did not seen in a long time: golden, Roadhouse and Chesty (from Kentucky), Pacemaker and Buckeroo, Wildflower (normally hikes with Golden), Meat (last seen in shelter with Mad Hat) Z, Runner, Lorax, Houdini.

Upper Goose Pond

Although my body feels fine after the previous long day, my brain is fuzzy. I do not think I was coherent when asking Golden about text Progress received in Salisbury CT, saying we were in town at the same time.

The caretaker makes pancakes and we are all invited to partake. Afterwards I volunteer for dish washing duty, and Golden joins, with Meat “supervising”. As we wash, they each tell tales of the food service industry. A lot of fun and laughter makes washing dishes a high point of the day.

Golden and Meat clean dishes at Upper Goose Pond

Plenty of up and down hiking, hemlock and pine alternating with deciduous, mixed with bogs, plenty of bugs. We start seeing roots in the Trail outnumber rocks. One root catches my toe as I am bringing the foot forward, hyper-extending and causing injury that slows me the rest of the morning.

I limp into October Mountain Shelter and say “hello” to Roadhouse, Chesty, and others I do not recognize. I get water to ice down my calf, then cook two dinners and eat each! My body is telling me to get more protein and calories, and fast! Has not hit me like this before. Roadhouse points out a new hostel, free, in Dalton that has a good rep, but not much is known regarding laundry, wifi, facilities, etc.

When I leave shelter and resume hiking at 2PM I realize I would not get into Dalton until 8PM, too late to shower and bed down in a hostel without disturbing someone. Do NOT want to repeat last night’s risk venture!

I need podcasts to keep me going. Fortunately batteries are good. Keep hiking until I run out of ‘casts and then hike some more. Several times run into Buckeroo and Pacemaker. Each are retired teachers, in late 60s, from Virginia, who have done several AT section hikes and are out again. Very friendly and easy to talk to.

Pacemaker and Buckeroo

Kay Wood Shelter appears finally at 7:30. Already arrived are Marissa and Michael, recent Cornell grads, out their second day of the trail, southbound. He did a biomechanics degree but hopes for masters to be mechanical engineering for more options. She majored in agricultural science (!) but plans to switch to landscape architecture. They are loaded down with gear, but older model SteriPEN failed, so water is a problem, though they have tabs as backup. Michael peppers me with questions enthusiastically. Marissa is a runner, which must help in the beginning days of a backpacking trip.

Buckeroo and Pacemaker come and set up their tent. Michael and Marissa will take the loft of the shelter. B&P arrive too late in the evening to safely make the steep climb down to water in the lessening light. Marissa offers to go, but B&P have enough for tonight. I offer SteriPEN for anyone tomorrow as long as my charge lasts, since I only have a couple of miles to town in the morning.

As we settle into the shelter, Marissa asks me if the presence of mice is normal. Both are wearing headlights, and the little eyes must reflect. Michael comes up to the loft, also sees an excess of rodents, and they vote to put up tent.

Now that they mention it, the mice are particularly noisy tonight. I remember the horrible feeling of having a mouse run across my face at night, on an earlier trip, and put on my head net… and sleep, and leave the mice to their games.

July 11, Wednesday, Kay Wood Shelter to Birdcage Hostel in Dalton, 3.0

The mousies may have scurried and scampered through the night, but I slept. Since I have a “nero” (near-zero mileage, as compared to “zero”) planned, I wait until 7AM to rouse the young sobos (southbounders) to help them with water. Marissa climbs down and quickly fills containers, and I irradiate the water liter by liter. I am using one of their wide-mouth containers with the steriPEN, but cannot help thinking about the device falling from my grasp while stirring, and becoming totally immersed. Maybe my narrower bottle helps prevent this failure mode, hmmm? After the water processing, I begin the short downhill morning hike.

The Birdcage Hostel does not list an address, just a phone number. Rumor is the guy running the hostel can be found at a Shell station. I notice the person offering water at a faucet along the Trail in town also allows camping in the backyard. I could have stayed here and arrived late and not worried about disturbing hikers. At the faucet place, I see Z talking to some other hikers (and bikers). Apparently the guy of the house was off helping some hiker slack-pack!

Thomas Levardi house for faucet and tenting

Dalton MA

Watered, I proceed further into town. An ice cream place does not open until noon. The library also opens late. I go to the post office, and find Roadhouse and Chesty. They stayed at the Birdcage last night, and Roadhouse gives precise directions. Problem solved! I hear the owner will not be back to the house until 11AM, but I carry my food box to the hostel, see who is around (only one sobo: Old Bay) and do a thorough amount of food repacking while waiting. Roadhouse and Chesty will stick around for a poison ivy foot doctor appointment, and they tell me about the hostel. The host Rob comes in, takes my pic– what a great guy, but crazy to open his entire house to hikers.

Birdcage Hostel

Rob Bird

I go to the library to find cell signal and converse with “Base Support”, write a post or two, then a blog comment mentions ice cream, and I have to find the shop I passed before. Hershey’s brand ice cream again, and I eat and catch up on posts. Then go to the general store and grab a sub and catch up on journals.

Returning to Birdcage, close to the general store, I learn that Rob does laundry in batches, mixing people’s stuff to get a full load, so I give out my dirtiest. Later I discover Rob actually has a big stack of “town clothes” for us to wear, so I could put everything in the wash. Also hear that Rob will take any who want to come to an all-you-can-eat place at 7PM. AYCE is a magic word to hikers. Several familiar faces trickle in all afternoon: Possum & Almost Awesome, Houdini, Steamer, Sticks and Metric, and more. Out in the back yard, Roadhouse and Possum start telling tales. I know Possum tells funny stories, but did not realize Roadhouse had similar talents.

The big white van pulls up at 7PM and is filled by Steamer, Houdini, Almost Awesome & Possum, Sticks & Metric, Roadhouse, Chesty, me, and sobo Old Bay, who is along for errands since he did AYCE yesterday. We go to Country Buffet. Roadhouse wishes they had biscuits for biscuits-and-gravy (essential southern food) but it is not to be. We do not lack for other choices, though, and you never saw skinny people go through so many plates. And Possum and Roadhouse really get warmed up and keep us all laughing.

Back at the Birdcage I am getting lots of comments on how swollen my feet have become. Maybe going in sandals and stopping analgesics when I’m not hiking make it worse. I elevate feet overnight on my cot on the screened porch. Big feet or not, tomorrow I will be energized and ready for big miles.

July 12, Thursday, Dalton to Wilbur Clearing Shelter, 20.5

Since I was sleeping on a cot on the screened porch of the Birdcage Hostel, it was easy to make a quiet exit by 6AM. I needed wifi for some final e-mails, so made my way to library,. Fortunately wifi remains on after-hours. Made way back to AT at 7AM.

The morning hike did not seem too difficult after a “nero”. Shortly after 11AM I arrive at Chesire, a cute little town with really nice widely-used bike path. At the entrance to town is a tiny ice cream and sandwich shop, which is closed. :-( As I am filling my water bottles, someone comes to open the store :-). I get a sandwich and cone, and wave over Almost Awesome and Possum, who just arrived. I eat at the nearby shady picnic table, when Possum comes over with a banana split served in a pie plate with six scoops– enormous. They go on to the general store for resupply, while I hike on.

Mark Noepel Shelter is only a fourteen mile day, so I commit to climbing Mount Greylock and going on the Wilbur Clearing Shelter for a long day.

Gore Pond

Podcast help. The Ape Team soon pass, but no one else yet from the hostel, which is odd.

Finally I get to the top of Mount Greylock. Joiner and Progress had written in a blog comment that Bascom Lodge up on the peak had ice cream. I find the Ape Team preparing to go down, and they did not find much to snack on. I go in, find only two tiny containers of homemade ice cream in the freezer, plus some popsicle treats and sodas. I get a few items and down them quickly, the start down.

War memorial at Mt Greylock

View from Mt Greylock

A while later I come to a sign for another minor summit. I take some photos and prepare to move on. Oops, a problem! Coming off the viewpoint I discover the northbound and southbound trail are right next to each other and look identical, with no signs. I cannot tell which way I came in!

Well, I choose a trail and follow it for a while. I convince myself I am seeing new trail, when I meet Sticks and Metric. I sheepishly explain what happened, then follow them down to the shelter.

I choose to sleep inside the shelter, since it is so late. Chesty and Roadhouse arrive late, and Chesty sleeps in shelter. Too late to hose off, or rinse out clothes. Quick wet wipe clean up, then ready for nighty-night.

I turn my wrong way mishap into a funny story for my shelter-mates. Sometimes you have to laugh at yourself, before someone else does first.

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