July 13, Friday the thirteenth, Wilbur Clearing Shelter MA to Congdon Shelter, 17.1
Lots of hikers seemed to be leaving Wilbur Clearing Shelter early, then I discovered my watch had switched time zones in the middle of the night, so it was really 6:15AM, not 5:15AM.
Almost Awesome and Possum were already down the Trail, headed for a breakfast at Friendlies. I decided to bypass the spending opportunity to go a little faster. I may regret that when we reach Vermont, today, where there are fewer towns near road crossings, and possibly fewer snack opportunities or trail magic. On the way out of North Adams, MA I follow a lovely stream with clean water, part of the town’s public water supply.
Climbing a bit, I soon enter Vermont. It seem I am running out of states.
Some water sources are barely flowing, so I skip until the next when I get to Seth Warner Shelter at noon I am thirsty and ready for a good source. A couple of thru-hikers I hadn’t met before but keep seeing this morning, Sugar Plum and Jeff Davis, are also struggling with water flow. It takes me twenty-five minutes to get two liters, and I forget about the third liter for now. While I am eating a bonus lunch and catching up on journaling, Possum and Almost Awesome also arrive for lunch. They are going to one shelter further than me today, and I will actually plan to hike slightly less than twenty miles for once to get in camp at a reasonable hour and rinse out day clothes and have time to write journal. The Ape Team tell me what they have heard about next hostel in Manchester Vermont: includes laundry and town clothes, get everything done in town and then give a call for a shuttle since they are a long walk from town, and reservations would be a good idea for once, since they recently had to turn people away because of popularity. Also, wifi and computer were available.
For me, making a reservation once I am sure of the day could by tricky, because I have Sprint as cell carrier, with much less coverage compared to Verizon.
Possum wanted to get more of my thoughts on ultra-light next time we share a shelter. I showed them a few things, then extended lunch was over.
Several trail climbs and descents. I discover they do indeed have gnats in Vermont. I need podcasts early to make up for low energy level, then run out of podcasts by 5PM. Note to myself: download a lot more audio next time I have wifi.
I arrive at Congdon Shelter at 6:30PM and see Sugar Plum and Jeff Davis submerged in pools in the stream below the shelter. That seems like a good idea to me. After putting up tent and hanging bear line, I make way down to the stream and soak my footsies, entire bod, and day clothes.
Sticks and Metric are arriving at the shelter just as I climb back to the AT, so I pretend to be lost and have lost all my equipment.
The shelter has an odd arrangement, with a table for cooking inside. I prepare dinner, joined by Sticks and Metric, and an older couple long hiking who will stay in the shelter. Also joined by a sobo who tells us scary stories of the trail ahead.
Clean, and in bed, all settled at a decent 9PM, to write a little.
Good night all.
July 14, Saturday, Congdon Shelter to Kid Gore Shelter, 18.7
Good early start, with climb first thing in morning. Then descend to cross a road heading to Bennington VT. Wish for trail magic. Given the remoteness of northern states, will trail magic be scarce.
Into Melville Nauheim Shelter for early brunch and water. My body seems to be telling me to consume extra calories today. A couple of hours later I encounter a lookout tower, which hikers are allowed to climb. Up above the “green tunnel”, I enjoy the view.
Glastenbur
Podcasts get me through the afternoon. Water is increasingly difficult to find. We really need a rain.
Arrive at Kid Gore Shelter around 6PM. Water is not good, so I get by on what I carried in. Really want to go to next shelter, 4.6 miles away, but my feet will not go.
For a long while it looks like I am only one at site. I cook two dinners again, showing my body really has the munchies. A British couple on holiday hiking a section of Long Trail arrive and begin cutting up fresh vegetables for dinner. Yum!
Fresh Step arrives. He is thru-hiker who started in February, the earliest I have met. He is determined to walk his own pace, and does NOT want to finish before September. I ask if he misses hiking with a consistent group of friends. He says the planning for that would just stress him out. In his words, he is the sort of personality groups form around, and he is determined to hike his own hike.
Though the water source is undrinkable, I ca use it to wipe down. Cannot get enough to rinse out clothes.
A note on the flying insects in Vermont: We have long had to deal with gnats that hover near ear and eye, but we seem to be adding some other types– one buzzes past noisily like a housefly, and keeps passing back-and-forth like a fighter escort. Not sure what benefit this critter finds in buzzing us. The same fly seems to follow for several minutes. Then we have a squadron of hovering-around-head insects– consider them a helicopter escort.
I write in a shelter journal:
Shoo, fly, don’t bother me.
Shoo, fly, don’t bother me.
Shoo, fly, don’t bother me.
So I can hike some more AT!
July 15, Sunday, Kid Gore Shelter to Spruce Peak Shelter, 22.9
I get out of Kid Gore Shelter at a record 5:30AM, hoping to make some early miles to have the option of walking out at the end of the day to Manchester Center and getting the shuttle to my hostel. The chances of actually getting to town this evening is pretty slim– more likely I would end up at the closest shelter, Spruce Peak Shelter, then hike three miles and hitch five mile for a nero (near-zero) day tomorrow.
At four miles I hit Storm Spring Shelter, which has nice water. I had been almost dry, since the shelter I slept at had no good water, leaving only the liter I brought in for dinner and to start the day. On the climb up to Stratton Mountain I meet Quicksilver, who started thru-hiking in the April 20s, the latest yet. I draft behind him and another new face, Falling Rock, which seems to make my climb faster and easier. Almost 4000 feet high.
Firetower steps, Stratton Mountain
At the top is another observation tower. I see No Sweat, who is planning on taking a gondola ride. I climb down, and the trail is not bad. Stratton Pond Shelter has a caretaker, who I see trimming vegetation along The Trail as I come in. The pond has swimming. I wasn’t going to spend any time there, but I see Jefferson Davis and Uncle Spider, and another new face, Skyline, who is hiking the long Trail (same as AT for first 100 miles) who already hiked the AT a previous year. I soak feet and get clothes wet to clean off some trail fragrance. The water is surprisingly clear, and I see tiny baby catfish hiding near rocks on the water’s edge.
The next two or three miles go easy because of the refreshing dip. Around 2PM we get some sprinkling, and by 4PM a sustained rain.
Have I had any real rain since 501 Shelter?
About an hour away from the final shelter the rain comes down hard. I am cruising and listening to a podcast, when I am passed by Sticks and Metric. Looking at trail journals, I thought they were ahead of me. I try keeping up with them, but eventually they are out of sight. Nevertheless, at 6PM I reach Spruce Peak Shelter in the pouring rain. The shelter is perfect for this weather, with front porch, fully enclosed cabin with bunks, and a sliding door. Lines are rigged, clothes are hung to dry. Dinner fires up on the porch.
Spruce Peak Shelter
More hikers arrive. Along with Two Step and Payman (a German thru-hiker couple) and Sticks & Metric, we get Jefferson Davis, Skyline, No Sweat, Uncle Spider, Falling Rock, most all who seem to know each other.
Somehow I have fallen in the middle of another bubble. It is unclear to me where this bubble falls in relation to mid-March bubble I normally travel with. Will ask around later.
Word of mouth tells us that Green Mountain House Hostel needs a reservation. Sticks & Metric already have a spot reserved. Skyline also plans to go, so Metric makes reservations for each of us and asks some questions about the shuttle.
Good Day. Lots of new faces.
July 16, Monday, Spruce Peak Shelter to Green Mountain House hostel in Manchester Center, 2,8
Some of the guys were out on the porch late at night, talking with their “outside voice”. Sugar Plum arrived late and climbed up onto my loft, where I was the only sleeper tucked into a corner. I could sense her surprise as she accidentally touched my finger and realized someone else was there.
I have to get up early for call of nature, and remain sitting at picnic table until others stir. Two Steps comes out, wrinkles her nose, and says “Bad air!” I go inside the shelter, and indeed, the air is bad. That number of gassy hikers in an enclosed space is not good. Perhaps that is why shelters are normally three-sided.
By the time I hike three miles down to the road, Sticks &Metric have passed and are gone– probably caught a ride. I am well aware the thru-hikers have had plenty of hitching practice by now, and are rather good at it, compared to me. I put on a clean shirt and my best smile. The traffic is really fast and the shoulder to pull over is tiny. I have no luck, using all my meager tricks hitching.
Oh well, reluctantly start the five mile road-walk into town. At mile one I find an American flag along the road, and carry it while thumbing, Milkman’s hitching method. At Mile 2, amazingly, I find an iPhone that still has charge and works somewhat. I do not find anything at Mile 3, especially rides, or Mile 4.
Goats along road to Manchester Center
Getting into the large-ish touristy town I find a Friendlies and order breakfast with milkshake. They give the extra in the blender cup, which is the only civilized way to serve a shake. At the post office I get food drop and find Skyline at a desk, writing up a trail journal and pictures for his five-year-old kid. I notice he has an Apple phone and show him what I find. After some fiddling he finds a number and calls it with his phone. The wife of the phone owner is nearby and comes to the post office to get it. They assumed the phone was stolen, but based on where I found it the iPhone must have fallen out of a pocket during a walk.
Skyline‘s feet are sore, but we walk to nearest good spot for lunch, which happens to be Friendly’s. We have burgers; I have another shake. Runner comes and sits at the table next to us. He is staying at a different place.
We have a plan: Skyline and his feet rest and I run to drugstore for rubbing alcohol for him and micro-sd card for me. My phone is running out of storage space for photos. No micro-sd at first store, but a Radio Shack is near, so I score a 16Gb card. I return and we call for a shuttle.
Green Mountain House
The hostel guy, Jeff, is really nice, and the hostel is immaculate and well furnished. The Ape Team are here zeroing, so I know it will be a fun stay. Sticks & Metric caught a hitch literally as they were crossing the road and hadn’t started thumbing yet. They are amazed I walked five miles. S & M have a private room, Skyline and I share, and Possum and Almost Awesome are down the hall.
Possum, Almost Awesome, Skyline, Metric, and Sticks
The Ape Team are watching a PCT video, and parts are hilarious, unintentionally.
After shower I wear street clothes provided by the hostel, and share laundry load with Sticks&Metric. The pair make oatmeal cookies, and later a cheesecake to share. Skyline finds an electronic piano and does some impressive improvisation. Later he offers to use some mushrooms I brought and some eggs provided by the hostel and make omelettes for both of us. I am actually getting full today.
Skyline’s mushroom omelette
Plugging my phone into the hostel computer, I am able to back up all photos to Picasa AND to move all data to a bigger micro-SD card without any technical headaches. Now I have loads more storage space. Amazed nothing went wrong during backup and transfer.
Hostel shoe display
Good company, good hostel, good night.
July 17, Tuesday, Manchester Center to Little Rock Pond Shelter, 19.8
Tonight Falling Rock’s windup radio is playing “Dust in the Wind”. The time is 8:30PM at Little Rock Pond Shelter, where Falling Rock and I had a dip in the pond earlier. In the spacious shelter, with bunks and a covered picnic table and benches, Blazer (former thru-hiker, section hiking) is joining us as we hear thunder and the roar of rain on the tin roof. Falling Rock, a section hiker doing Vermont, got inspired to make “Funfetti” pancakes and generously shares with both of us, and the real maple syrup is yummy. Now the rain is coming down even harder, making it tough to talk over, with plenty of lightning and thunder grace notes. Sometimes it starts to slow down, and comes back even harder. What will this do to the Trail tomorrow?
Falling Rock makes Funfetti pancakes in the dark
This morning Jeff offered us early or late shuttles. Everyone except Sticks and Metric elected for early, so we were at the trailhead by 6:45AM. Ape Team zoomed out, and Skyline and I hiked most of the day together and often talked about whatever as we walked. He is a lawyer, in a startup firm doing environmental and business law, and has a month or so until the real work begins, so is doing the Long Trail. His five year old son misses his dad, but dad is sending photos and making phone calls to son. Skyline and wife Sunset(?) thru-hiked a few years ago, and he wanted to hike some more to get into shape. Instead of gradually ramping up, he tried some big miles at the beginning. Sound familiar? Now his feet are a mess with blisters.
We climb Bromley Mountain and descend Mad Tom Notch, where my foot slips and I come heavily down on the right-hand trekking pole, causing it to bend at the top joint between sections. I am unhurt. I am also inwardly upset, thinking of the expense of replacement, how I can get new poles quickly, how soon I can communicate with “Base Support”. The rest of the morning and afternoon I am probably not the best conversation partner.
Trekking pole breakage
At one of the closely-spaced shelters we stop for foot break and snacks, and chat with sobo Snake-Eyes. His phone is out of order, so both Skyline and I commit to call Green Mountain House when we get a signal to get him a reservation. Skyline has a better phone, but I am hiking a little further today.
At Big Branch Shelter Skyline and I part company. He is wisely going easy on feet, and I want to do twenty miles today.
Skyline
I pass Sugar-Plum, Uncle Spider, and Jefferson Davis sunning and napping after a dip in the stream.
At Little Rock Pond Shelter I meet Blazer, and another fellow who camps several nights at a shelter tentsite for solitude. The shelter is a beauty, with roof covering the picnic table and extended deck. Falling Rock arrives and we decide to go for a dip in the pond, but first I need to cook some dinner. Then we experience crystal clear water, and watch salamanders swimming. I go in with my day clothes to rinse them off, and float around. In the distance we hear thunder, but anywhere near the pond.
Little Rock Pond
Back to first of this journal entry…
July 18, Wednesday, Little Rock Pond Shelter to Governor Clement Shelter, 19.4
After a thorough drenching last night, I can still hike with dry feet, as vegetation does not lean over trail and soak shoes as in other states. Today I am hiking a little slower, cruising, not putting effort into speed.
Soon passed by Sticks & Metric, but do not see many other nobos. Starting to see several sobos during the day.
Eventually climb to a vista view of an airport below. Later spend an extended lunch catching up on journals. Descend down to suspension bridge for hikers that is very high over the water and offers a lot of movement. Then a really steep technical climb on rock boulders a long way up, before moderating to a mere steep climb.
Rutland Southern Vermont Regional Airport
I begin to see several young people doing trail maintenance. One was pounding rock into gravel, others moving stones.
In late afternoon I come to sign for trail re-route, along roads, due to severe hurricane weather last year. From sobos I know that the old blazed AT is still passable, and a mile or so shorter, but I elect to respect the re-route after thinking of those trail workers: I do not want to walk and cause erosion on a trail that still needs repairs. Also, I do not mind the reduced grades of road walking. After several sections and turns of country road I am about to catch up with an older thru-hiker when we both meet a couple beside the road with a cooler. Trail magic on a re-route! They are both hikers, but knee problems limit her to shorter hikes, but they do quite a lot of different locations. I enjoy a cold soda and cracker snack while chatting. They have a secret shelter, which the other guy gratefully accepts. I plan to go on to Governor Clement Shelter, and the couple walk with a a short distance and show where the regular AT blazes begin.
At 6:30PM I wonder if I will be the only one at shelter, and then Sticks and Metric appear and tent behind the massive walled stone shelter. I go down to nearby stream and cool feet while rinsing off myself and day clothes.
Governor Clement Shelter
Back at shelter, we are eating dinner and talking together, when I accidentally knock over my alcohol stove with my shoe. “Umm, your left shoe is on fire.” Tiny cool alcohol flame, easy to extinguish. “Funny, I’ve never had to say that sentence to anyone before.” Sign. It seems my role is comic relief for Sticks & Metric.
July 19, Saturday, Governor Clement Shelter to Mountain Meadows Lodge at Kent Pond, 14.6
The weather turned cold last night, and I actually needed the mummy function of my sleeping bag.
The day begins with a two-thousand foot climb, but the grade is not too bad. Nice to do it fresh, in the cool air. At Cooper Lodge I see Sticks & Metric left their packs, and understand they are taking the short steep rock climb up to Killington Peak. I join them as we take photos. Safely returned to pack, I take trail down that is too steep and full of rocks and roots to make good speed with a “lope”. During the morning I am eating an extra meal. I have been doing this the past couple of days, but hiking faster than scheduled, so I have the food.
Killington Peak, second highest point in VT
In the afternoon the Long Trail finally splits off. I choose not to take a side trail to Inn of the Long Trail. At Gifford Woods Start Park I stop at HQ for snack opportunity. They are out of sodas, but I get Ben&Jerry’s ice cream on a stick.
In late afternoon I could go to Killington post office, but with low energy I hike on a mile to Kent Pond and to Mountain Meadows Lodge. I have option of staying on tent site for only $10, no shower, but indulge myself with a room and dinner. The lodge is huge, with farm animals, dock, kayaks, more amenities than one could use, but almost empty before the weekend rush.
Mountain Meadows Lodge
For dinner I sit at a table with three hikers: Sculler, who I met a long time ago, and two sobos. Another table holds non-long-distance-hikers. The sobos tell us the methods they use to score leftovers at AMC huts and score work-for-stays. This involves at bit of luck and social engineering I do not have, so I might by paying the expensive rates for a couple of nights, since it does not seem practical to get through the White Mountains without staying at a hut at least once or twice. Well, worry about that later: I have an actual bed to enjoy.
Kent Pond, near lodge
July 20, Friday, Mountain Meadows Lodge at Kent Pond to Wintturi Shelter, 16.6
Sculler and I have breakfast scheduled for 6:30AM at the inn, eggs and pancakes.
I make my way backwards on the Trail a bit and go to Killington, and find the post office after a couple of wrong turns. Nearby is a general store/deli, so I pre-order a sub for first lunch and pack it.
When the post office opens, I am presented with news that three boxes arrived, not the four expected. Oops, the replacement shoes do not arrive in time. “Base Support” had the Amazon reseller ship directly to the post office, and Amazon delivery dates sometimes get a bit slippery. I ask the post office guy if he can forward the box another couple of mail drops, to Glenncliff NH, and he readily agrees. Hiker lore warns that some post offices are much more reluctant to forward general delivery boxes and require special paperwork, so I feel fortunate. The current shoes seem to be holding fine with “shoe goo”, so I am not worried. I eat “first Lunch” early so I do not have to pack trash. I realize that a local outfitter, Base Camp Outfitters BCO, has a shortcut trail to the Inn, but first I need a new shirt. The current one, merino short sleeve, is looking ratty because war is making little fuzz balls. It does not get all the way clean anymore, and I had to cut off sleeves in blazing hot Pennsylvania. I am thinking of getting a polypro shirt like most of the AT hikers use. The woman helping me expresses a clear preference for merino, and says that even with modern odor control measures incorporated into polypro they had to ask an employee to stop waring his poly shirt to work because of the stink. I express concern that my merin wasn’t holding up well. She said the fuzzballs go away if you wash the shirt with jeans. (Not very practical for the AT, but a fun random fact.) She calls her husband over, who expresses a firm opinion that a quality merino shirt should last the entire trail. I tried on shirts of both materials, and on impulse choose the wool.
(skip anecdote on obliviousness)
I stop by the inn to grab wifi and inform “base support” about the shoe shipment delay. Then finally I am on The Trail at 11AM. Big climb up Quimby Mountain, then up and down all afternoon. Perhaps it is my perspective after resting up at the inn, but the woods are more lovely and enjoyable. Certainly not an easier trail, but I get more out of walking it after a brief break.
Private cabin lookout
Finally arrive at Wintturi Shelter late at 7:30-ish, quickly get water and fix dinner. Sculler is also there, and we get a chance to talk a bit before I close my eyes and welcome sleep.
PS: My new shirt has a label to let me track the sheep my wool came from.
July 21, Saturday, Wintturi Shelter to Happy Hill Shelter, 20.4
Today I had several grazing opportunities, but what about hiking, surrounded by the serene beauty of Vermont northwoods. Or perhaps you agree with Jefferson Davis, “Avoid towns; They just want to take your money.” Well, we must hike our own hike, and feel a duty to support local economies.
I leave Winturri shelter and descend down to VT12, where a grocery is nearby. Well, a closer reading of Companion would explain that the expanded farmer stand does not open until 10AM, hardly hiker-friendly hours. Payman and Two Step, who pass and are passed seemingly a dozen times during the day, are similarly disappointed, but we have another couple of chances.
Maple syrup tubing
Companion does not show much elevation change during this section of The Trail, but that is deceptive, since it is only listing the roads and not the hilltops in between. All day is an up-and-down roller coaster, but it is Vermont, with serene farm scenery and tall northwoods. Up and down I travel to Cloudland Road, where a restaurant sells pints if ice cream and locally bottled soda. I am enjoying my pint of cinnamon ice cream (very lightly flavored, almost vanilla) and raspberry rhubarb soda, out on the porch, when Payman and Two Step arrive and get their own pints and bottles.
Cloudland Farm Country Market
On to some afternoon hiking, up and down, not insufferably hot or full of hostile flying attackers as past weeks, mostly fighting gravity and friction. I begin to see trees connected by plastic tubes– sugar maples! Sometimes a few isolated trees in the forest are connected by long stretches of tubing, in turn connected to more trees. The modern sugar maple industry, unlike the Internet, is a series of tubes.
A series of tubes
Around 4PM I arrive in West Hartford, Vermont, among several people out for rafting and other watersports. I stop at the general store/deli for a sub and soda, early first dinner, while Payman and Two Step skip this stop. Hiking on, I soon see them camped at a stream, having gotten word that Happy Hill Shelter is now dry. I take on extra water and soak feet, and choose to go on the shelter anyway.
I finally arrive around 7PM at a fairly unusual shelter, sized three across with a loft for a snug six persons. A couple of section-hikers come and tent, and finally Sculler arrives and joins me in the shelter.
And, yes, I do have dinner, second dinner, after all these trail-side snacks.
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